Shaft Sealer

Rich93 said:
I'm a little surprised by this thread - it seems that all shafts are getting a coat of sealer these days. Do any of your customers ask you not to put a sealer on the shaft? I got a couple of new shafts recently and couldn't wait to take the sealer off. To me a sealed shaft just doesn't feel right, and is stickier through the fingers than a bare shaft with Slipstic. Magic Eraser will clean the chalk out well enough for me.

Second question - Speaking of Slipstic, whatever happened to Pete Lafond (owner of Slipstic)? I used to enjoy his posts.





I wrote this at the same time as Dick, and just saw his post before submitting mine, but basically I feel the same way.

I can't speak for all others, because I don't know, but the method I explained you would'nt even know there's a sealer on It, because It only fills the pores & not the surface. I'm pretty sure some of the others do something simular, but not sure about all that use sealer. I assure you though the method I use feels the same as a bare shaft. I also prefer the same feel as You, but do like to polish a high shine, and I can tell no difference in the 2. My personal shaft I would not even need to seal the pores, but some customers get their shafts very dirty, and sealing the pores just makes My job easier the next time, as well as saves them the extra money for time in labor. on rare ocasion I have even run accross shafts that will fuzz up If you don't seal. You can polish the shaft smooth as silk, come back a few minutes later and feel where It has raised. This does not always happen though, but in some of those cases you need some type of sealer.

Sometimes the sealer (or finish as I like to think of It), that comes on a new shaft, and is built up into a surface finish, also protects It while sitting in a case/shelves before being sold, or while being shipped between two different climates. This is probably not always the case, but I have heard some mention It helps protect against warpage in these situations. Most people just knock the finish off like you mention to make them more playable.
 
I use Rapid Pad and it leaves no stickyness...it polishes the ferrule and leaves it nice and sealed to protect against bluing...
 
Rich93 said:
I'm a little surprised by this thread - it seems that all shafts are getting a coat of sealer these days. Do any of your customers ask you not to put a sealer on the shaft? I got a couple of new shafts recently and couldn't wait to take the sealer off. To me a sealed shaft just doesn't feel right, and is stickier through the fingers than a bare shaft with Slipstic.QUOTE]
I agree a sealed shaft that still has the sealer on the surface feels bad. That is why you will notice some have mentioned sanding the sealer off of the surface leaving it only in the pores and then waxing over it or just burnishing the wood and leaving it bare.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
Rapid Pad? Can't find anything on Google even! :eek: HELP.

Also.. A few years back, just before Slip Stik came, out I got some stuff used on ski's called Not Wax. Same thing? Some thought so at that time.

Is Shark Oil a sealer? Found some in the back of a drawer here.

Thanks, Jim
 
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JimS said:
Rapid Pad? Can't find anything on Google even! :eek: HELP.

Also.. A few years back, just before Slip Stik came, out I got some stuff used on ski's called Not Wax. Same thing? Some thought so at that time.

Is Shark Oil a sealer? Found some in the back of a drawer here.

Thanks, Jim
The stuff for skies is usually silicone or graphite. Both are supposed to be bad for bare wood.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
JimS said:
Rapid Pad? Can't find anything on Google even! :eek: HELP.

Also.. A few years back, just before Slip Stik came, out I got some stuff used on ski's called Not Wax. Same thing? Some thought so at that time.

Is Shark Oil a sealer? Found some in the back of a drawer here.

Thanks, Jim


Thanks cueman.... still would like to know about the other stuff. Any help with Rapid Pad or Shark Oil? Also found a can of Briwax in the cupboard. Any good for shaft use? Thanks.
 
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acryloid b72

acryloid b72 is used to restore old masters oil paintings. it drys very quickly and is crystal clear. it makes a great shaft sealer. i like the way it penetrates the wood. but it can be a pain to use because it comes in a crystal form and you have to mix it with tulane.
 
JimS said:
Thanks cueman.... still would like to know about the other stuff. Any help with Rapid Pad or Shark Oil? Also found a can of Briwax in the cupboard. Any good for shaft use? Thanks.
As for Rapid Pad, I would ask why pursue it when the sealer I sell is better. I have used both and could just as easily bottle up Rapid Pad for resale cheaper than what I use if it was as good. I have no experience with Shark Oil. Briwax is not a good cue wax. The cue wax that is made for cues specifically is the best I know of. Some things make a cue slicker but they also may have wood destroying properties like slicone and graphite.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
cueman said:
As for Rapid Pad, I would ask why pursue it when the sealer I sell is better. I have used both and could just as easily bottle up Rapid Pad for resale cheaper than what I use if it was as good. I have no experience with Shark Oil. Briwax is not a good cue wax. The cue wax that is made for cues specifically is the best I know of. Some things make a cue slicker but they also may have wood destroying properties like slicone and graphite.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

Thanks. I'll order some sealer from you. I know you'll sell me what I need and that's a good thing because I don't have a clue!
 
rhncue said:
Where is the best place to get Slipstick in quantity?

Dick
Dick,
Might try Mark Bear - http://www.bearcues.com He was selling it, because he bought a ton of it at one time. If not he can maybe get you in contact with the guy that is selling it. I think that guy is hard to reach though from what i read...

Jim
 
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