Shaft Slicker?

Brain71

Brain71

Railbird
Silver Member
Looking for something to smooth my shaft. Anybody recommend anything. I'm aware of cue silk, Q glide, and Dr. cues products. Was wondering if there were anything else out there.
 
A good cleaning? I think any of those products just make the shaft feel worse shortly after you apply them. I wash my hands a lot while playing. If your hands are clean, the shaft slides better.
 
Unless you have a lathe or drill to spin your shaft on I would not use any chemicals on it. But if you have a way of spinning the shaft then Cleaner, Sealer and Cue Wax is the way to go.
 
I have used the Qclean, Qsmooth and Qslick products in the past and use them now. They do work. I think I am transitioning to Qclean, a leather pad(burnish) and a cue wax. I'm just not as happy with Qslick as I should be. Qsmooth is a good tool. Maybe I will continue to use as it removes minimal material. Qsmooth is one way, but leather pads and brown paper bag are also considered good for burnishing.
 
I've used the Q Silk and it doesn't really last that long.
I've found Q Wax and a burnish with a piece of leather works for me.
When you get a nice finish on your shaft, all you have to do is a periodical
wax and burnish. A wipe with a cotton cloth after playing doesn't hurt either.
 
As a player, I think one of the most overlooked shaft slickers is a good hand wash. When your shaft starts to feel sticky, most of the times the problem is your hands, not the shaft.

As a cue repairerererer (pronounced like a car starting with a low battery on a cold morning), I have tried a bunch of things on my own, and a lot of things that the fantastic guys here have suggested, and thus far, the best I have found is Blackheart's suggested method.

A couple of good threads to read:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=92811

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=116440
 
Sounds goofy but works.....Alcohol prep pads used by diabetics. Wipe your fingers and hands when needed and then you can wipe the shaft also, as the alcohol evaporates and does not harm the wood. Then with a piece of leather burnish the shaft. Smooth as a baby's bottom. Best of all you don't have to leave the table to wash your hands and break any rhythm you have built up. The pads are readily available at any pharmacy and most grocery stores.
 
1. Wash your hands.

2. Dry them with about 3 or 4 sheets of paper towels put together.

3. Immediately use them to wipe down the shaft, while they are still slightly damp.

4. Burnish the shaft with a clean, dry paper towel.


For deep cleaning, use a Magic Eraser with alcohol. Finish off with 1200 grit sandpaper... just enough to close the grain.
 
Jazz said:
Did you end up trying Sailkote? If so, what did you think?

What about any difference between Q Wax and Butcher's?
Click to expand...

Butchers wax and bowling alley wax both have a thinner consistancy compared to quality cue wax. They also produce more of a drag instead of burnishing up to that super slick feel good cue wax gives.
 
Chris is right I use his cue wax on all my repairs and builds. I have to say everyone likes the end result. I too have tried other products and waxes but I keep returning to his wax. :thumbup:
 
Jazz said:
Did you end up trying Sailkote? If so, what did you think?

What about any difference between Q Wax and Butcher's?
Click to expand...

I tried the Sailkote and like every other product I"ve tried the shaft got sticky after a few hours of use.

The Q Wax was as slick as any I've used and as easy to use as any I"ve used. SlipStic and all the others worked fine for a while but eventually got sticky.

The best way to have clean slick shafts is clean hands, then clean the shaft with alcohol and, if it's really dirty, a Magic Eraser. Then just a couple swipes with 1500 grit micro mesh or sand paper and finish with leather burnishing.

I've learned to turn the cue butt up/tip down when applying chalk. That makes more difference than any cleaning process or product as it lets the chalk dust fall to the floor instead of falling onto the shaft.
 
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Bowling Alley Wax then burnish. I spin the shaft on a lathe and it gets slick. Pretty hot to the touch actually. I also tried the pure silicon on top on the wax AFTER burnishing and it actually takes it to the next level.

So here is my routine. Bowling Alley Wax applied. Let dry for a couple of minutes. Spin on lathe and burnish using white paper towel. Shaft feels HOT. Cool down. Apply silicon and lightly burnish. SLIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCKKKKK.

The good thing with the bowling alley wax is as applied it helps clean the shaft.

If the shaft is dirty prior to first treatment. Magic Eraser with Denatured Alcohol. Next burnish and then apply Bowling Alley Wax as above.
 
JimS said:
The best way to have clean slick shafts is clean hands, then clean the shaft with alcohol and, if it's really dirty, a Magic Eraser. Then just a couple swipes with 1500 grit micro mesh or sand paper and finish with leather burnishing.

I've learned to turn the cue butt up/tip down when applying chalk. That makes more difference than any cleaning process or product as it lets the chalk dust fall to the floor instead of falling onto the shaft.
Click to expand...

I agree, leather burnishing on the lathe seems to leave the shaft nicely smooth.

Changing how to chalk a cue is very hard for a simpleton like me. When I am thinking about chalking, I try to chalk like snooker player with butt on the ground, tilted and lightly brushing the tip.

Now, what ingredient in the "cue wax" that is different from Butcher's? Carnauba wax? Anyone know?
 
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