Shaft Wax ( Discussing methods of shaft maintenace )

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
flamable

White gas is 100% naptha, lighter fluid is 30% naptha with other chemicals in it to change how it burns, ignites etc. lighter fluid CONTAINS naptha, but is not pure naptha and therefore is not as volatile. Lighter fluid is diluted so to speak. Its diluted with other flamable chemicals, but none as flamable as naptha.
Hope this makes sense.

Paraffin wax is one of the chemicals .

As a diesel mechanic we had to learn about different fuels.

Paraffin is used big time in fuels like diesel and heating oils,
Paraffin help raise the BTU's .


I believe that is why the lighter fluid works on a shaft .
 

pocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've got a small jar of Renaissance on the way from Amazon I'll report back.
 

caff3in3

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would like to thank everyone who contributed on here. My mothers wax arrived in the mail today and after applying it I swear I can see my reflection in it!
 

pucksnpool

Registered
Whoever is selling that stuff on Amazon must be getting a lot of business. I bought some and got it earlier this week, too.

Tried it out and the results are pretty amazing -- thanks AZB! I'm a long-time lurker but felt the need to post to say how helpful this has been in making my shafts clean and slick.
 

pocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I cleaned my shaft, 99% rubbing alcohol and a Mr. Clean eraser. Gave it a light going over with the green side of the Q wiz, applied a small amount of the renaissance wax, gave it a few hours to dry and burnished with the brown side of the q wiz.

Came out nice and smooth. I play every day now so I'll have to see how it holds up. So far, I'm impressed.

Side note: I found that the Renaissance wax had a distinct lighter fluid aroma. Not sure what that means, but there you have it.
 

PickPocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Renaissance wax

Well I have only tried a couple of waxes, Honestly I usually use the Chem pak Q-wax, because I like the results when applying by hand. I bought the Butchers and tried it, and it was good, but I didn't notice a huge difference other then smell, so I went back to the Q-Wax.

I learned later that butcher's it best used with a lathe or shaft spinner. I would have to agree that a lathe or "spinner" make the process much easier & produce a better finished result. (But that's a given)

Based on the info in this thread, I ordered the Renaissance, just received it yesterday and am excited to use it. I anticipate the same results many others have now shared, so I don't plan to do a follow up after.

But Thanks MM for all the info in this great thread! :thumbup: (Rep to you sir!)


Just in case your dedication to this product is absolute!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RENAISSANCE...017?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a520b431
 
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pocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I cleaned my shaft, 99% rubbing alcohol and a Mr. Clean eraser. Gave it a light going over with the green side of the Q wiz, applied a small amount of the renaissance wax, gave it a few hours to dry and burnished with the brown side of the q wiz.

Came out nice and smooth. I play every day now so I'll have to see how it holds up. So far, I'm impressed.

Side note: I found that the Renaissance wax had a distinct lighter fluid aroma. Not sure what that means, but there you have it.

Well after a few weeks of use my user report:

It seems to perform very similarly to the q wax I have used in the past, nothing more nothing less. I was conservative in application so I'll try to slather some on and see if that make a difference.

I also apply it by hand not lathe, I guess that could affect the performance some.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Renaissance wax work great :thumbup:
I think I have tried all the different dedicated cue waxes out there and the Renaissance beats them all hands down.
I haven`t tried the Ronsol lighter fuel trick yet, as I have lots of Unique shaft cleaner and Fast Orange citrus cleaner, both works really well.
I have tried a few Caranuaba waxes and they all give a nice result, the ones with added bees wax, tends to be a little sticky and needs a high speed buff, to get really smooth.
 

robertod

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
about this renaissance wax

I love the way the cue feels after I apply the wax but after about about 4-6 times playing the I can feel the wax on the cue and it is no longer smooth and slippery even after a quick clean with alcohol.

Am I doing something wrong? It seems that using this wax eventually leaves a buildup of wax that no longer feels good to the touch. What is really the best way to apply the wax? Should it be applied, left on and then buffed out in high speed? Or just put it on and immediately buff it out? Should the wax regularly be removed and reapplied?
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Rereading a old thread

Just a heads up on questions of durability. The only warning on Renaissance wax reviews and studies is that it can be hard to remove. It is the only wax that is not dissolved by alcohol also. Many of us use alcohol to clean our cues (especially Predator because that is the only approved way to clean their shafts and not void the warranty). I spin my cue on the lathe and wipe it with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol. The wax that was previously applied just becomes clean and refreshed. Then I apply one more thin coat of Renaissance wax and I'm ready to go. My player is a Tascarella - I wouldn't trust it to any other product!


I was rereading this thread, Good post And I didn't know Denatured alcohol wouldn't dissolve Renaissance wax.


Would lighter fluid Dissolve Renaissance wax ?
 

sciarco

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
fjk you're spot on I don't use anything except a dry paper towel I wipe it down and than burnish with a piece of leather works for me. I'm no expert but I was told by a cue maker to never use anything damp on a shaft and I don't .
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Dry shaft wood

fjk you're spot on I don't use anything except a dry paper towel I wipe it down and than burnish with a piece of leather works for me. I'm no expert but I was told by a cue maker to never use anything damp on a shaft and I don't .

Normally most woods shrink up and crack if the wood dries out decade after decade .
Wood has natural oils in it, I don't really know I am just guessing that wood is healthy when it has oil in its grain .

I know that all woods are allot stronger when the wood is wet ...

Just tossing out thoughts

If you have a cue that is 40 or 50 years old I am not sure if letting the shaft dry out is a good thing ?
 

Bavafongoul

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Craftsmen Cue Wax.......Birmingham, England.........pretty expensive for a cue wax due to shipping cost.

Bar none....the very best cue wax I've ever tried.......and over the past 55 years of pool play, I've tried a lot.


Don't order during the summer season or when the weather is hot.....above 90 degrees. The wax will melt
during in transit shipping and it does not reconstitute itself when allowed to dry.....I usually order in the Fall
and winter and get a large supply.....15 to 20 cans for myself and my friends.....the wax is made by Craftsmen Cues.


Matt B.
 
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