Shaft waxing

[Catalin]

I recently got a second hand cue whose shaft needed some cleaning. I had 600, 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper available. I used masking tape on the tip and the varnished portion and started with 1000 grit knowing that if it didn't do the job I could go lower. 1000 was enough though. I was planning to use 2000 at the end, but the small strip of 1000 that I had used lost its griylt and became pretty smooth at the end so I kept using that and it gave a smooth finish.

After I cleaned the shaft of dust, I remembered I had a tin of shoe wax which I think is pure wax. It is hard and translucid but it melts when you rub your fingers on it so I put a thin coat of wax on the shaft using my fingers. I then buffed it with a cotton rag followed by a microfiber cloth. It felt less smooth to me than the bare wood had been at the time, but the next day and since then I had found it very smooth with a nice shine.

Is that a good way to apply wax or would you change anything? I'm asking because I received a brand new custom shaft that the manufacturer left bare because they think treatments change the feel. I'm thinking to wax it though because it's already showing some blueing after a couple of uses and wondering if there is a better way.

 

[Fatboy]

They always turn blue. Unless you seal it-which is the wrong idea.

 

[MitchAlsup]

To prevent bluing of the shaft--you put several coats of wax on the shaft, and then you clean the shaft occasionally with a jut barely damp towel and then put another coat of wax on it, let it harden/dry/cure, buff it out, and 3 strokes on the talc block.

 

[Cue Alchemist]

Bees wax also works well. I first used it, mine was a small block. after I had some left over from redoing a table.
When you, run it through, and feel it get really hot on the wood, you know it's starting to seal the shaft. Then just rub it through with a rag. If you don't get it hot enough it will feel sticky. Some times it will take a couple a goes,before it's completely sealed the wood.

 

[Bavafongoul]

Spend $30 and get a 2 oz cannister of Renaissance Wax. It will last a long time.
You apply it using a soft cloth since it’s a paste like wax and allow it to dry. Then
remove it off using fast, hard strokes and the shaft, presuming you already took
care of scratches, nicks, etc, will be smooth and slick, especially with a closed bridge

 

[Island Drive]

Personally, I think removing the hand oils that build up on wood, cannot help, I think it would dry the wood out.
Instead of cleaning the blue/off the shaft. Why don't you just wear a glove, or do like Corey does, use a finger sleeve.

 

[CocoboloCowboy]

I use Cue Wax, have soft cloth I smeared Cue Wax on, use it as necessary, buff off with dry soft cloth.

I am anti glove.

 

[Renegade_56]

They always turn blue. Unless you seal it-which is the wrong idea.

Why is that?

 

[Renegade_56]

I use Cue Wax, have soft cloth I smeared Cue Wax on, use it as necessary, buff off with dry soft cloth.

I am anti glove.

A good paste wax dries hard. Not all waxes do. I like Johnson's personally. If you buff, or "burnish" it to the point of creating heat that you can feel in your hand while doing it you can get a harder finish faster, that is probably longer lasting. Paste was is a hard wax but when applied is of course wet with a petroleum base. The burnishing evaporates the petroleum carrier more rapidly.

 

[Fatboy]

Why is that?

Speaking for myself, I chalk my cue with my bridge hand. I have wet hands and I don’t wear a glove. So every shaft I put anytime on gets dirty. After a while it’s just patina. I keep them clean but in the pours OG the wood chalk dust accumulates-same as tattoo ink under the skin does on people. Can’t wash tattoos off, can’t get shaft wood perfectly clean.

 

[Thunder Thighs]

Before sanding with any grit. I'd use a magic eraser sponge with denatured alcohol first to remove the bluing. Then sand lightly with 1000-3000, and burnish with leather afterwards. There are many good waxes to use after that.

 

[Catalin]

Personally, I think removing the hand oils that build up on wood, cannot help, I think it would dry the wood out.
Instead of cleaning the blue/off the shaft. Why don't you just wear a glove, or do like Corey does, use a finger sleeve.

Forgive me but your statement is ridiculous. What about wood in hundreds of years old constructions and furniture, how does that survive without the magic hand oils?

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[Catalin]

They always turn blue. Unless you seal it-which is the wrong idea.

Not necessarily. Please refer to exhibit 1 below, my 10+ years old maple shaft, never been cleaned except wiping it down with a paper towel at the end of each playing day. Still looks almost new.

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[Island Drive]

Thx for your constructive comment....
I live in a desert, anytime wood sits in the dry 6% dry humid air, it eventually starts to dry out and crack.
But, I'm not an expert like many others.

 

[garczar]

Forgive me but your statement is ridiculous. What about wood in hundreds of years old constructions and furniture, how does that survive without the magic hand oils?

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'hand oils' do nothing to help/preserve wood shafts. agree with you here. as for 'bluing'? thats never bothered me. kinda like it actually.

 

[GentlemanJames]

Not necessarily. Please refer to exhibit 1 below, my 10+ years old maple shaft, never been cleaned except wiping it down with a paper towel at the end of each playing day. Still looks almost new.

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Exactly. I have 25 year old cues that look the same as when they did the day I purchased them, because the same reason you cited above - the good ol' Paper Towel. The only additional thing I do is keep a tin a Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish in my case; and, I just give the paper towel a small smudge of wax and burnish the heck out of the shaft by hand with the paper towel; and then, break down the cue for storage back in it's case. 5 Cents worth of maintenance goes a long way, and all supplies available at your local Super Market. - GJ

 

[skiergd011013]

Use mr clean magic eraser and wipe the shaft with it. They suck the chalk right out of the wood and leave it smooth as glass without sanding the wood.

 

[Island Drive]

When the 5/16 14 pin on my cue, becomes somewhat catchy/dry, the old timers told me to use nose oil. Hands have natural oils, and most likely pros use gloves to not have this come into play.

 

[Fatboy]

Not necessarily. Please refer to exhibit 1 below, my 10+ years old maple shaft, never been cleaned except wiping it down with a paper towel at the end of each playing day. Still looks almost new.

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Speaking for myself, I chalk my cue with my bridge hand. I have wet hands and I don’t wear a glove. So every shaft I put anytime on gets dirty. After a while it’s just patina. I keep them clean but in the pours OG the wood chalk dust accumulates-same as tattoo ink under the skin does on people. Can’t wash tattoos off, can’t get shaft wood perfectly clean.

 

[measureman]

Has anybody tried one of the Ceramic sprays made for cars?
If I had a junk shaft I would try it but I don't.