Shaft wood quality

Tennesseejoe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Most players prefer slow growth, hard Maple for shaft material. It seems to me that slow growth wood would be more dense and therefor heavier. If a heavier end mass of the shaft produces more deflection wouldn't a lighter weight wood be more desireable?

I found that my Predator 314 seems to be a softer wood and will dent very easy. Has anyone noticed that the OB1 shaft is a softer wood?
 
Deflection isn't necessary a bad thing. I use a very heavy hard maple shaft, the feedback is way more better.
 
Tennesseejoe said:
Most players prefer slow growth, hard Maple for shaft material. It seems to me that slow growth wood would be more dense and therefor heavier. If a heavier end mass of the shaft produces more deflection wouldn't a lighter weight wood be more desireable?

I found that my Predator 314 seems to be a softer wood and will dent very easy. Has anyone noticed that the OB1 shaft is a softer wood?

Check this out, the advantage that the Predator gives you LOW Deflection, can be achieved with any shaft. Any shaft can be cored in the front, foam filled, and have a Predator type ferrule placed on it, which is also foam filled, and you can achieve very similar results.

The softness of the wood you are speaking about is mainly due to the chemical treatment of the wood (Wood Stabilizers). This treatment process is great in moderation and terrible in excess. When using laminated shafts it gives the manufacturer the ability to use woods that would never be used for shafts under normal circumstances and this also adds to the softness.
 
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manwon said:
Check this out, the advantage that the Predator gives you LOW Deflection, can be achieved with any shaft. Any shaft can be cored in the front, foam filled, and have a Predator type ferrule placed on it, which is also foam filled, and you can achieve very similar results.

The softness of the wood you are speaking about is mainly due to the chemical treatment of the wood (Wood Stabilizers). This treatment process is great in moderation and terrible in excess. When using laminated shafts it gives the manufacturer the ability to use woods that would never be used for shafts under normal circumstances and this also adds to the softness.

You forgot to mention that they can sell it for a really high price $200 :D .

But actually, I really don't think it will gives you lower deflection. I've played with different kind of cues with different kind of deflection. But never seen really differences between deflection. It's just sales talk. I always aims at the same spot with high and low deflection shaft, and it always do the same trick. I think the more important thing is consistency of the shaft. A laminated or really stiff cue give you more consistency.
 
Shooting with a level cue, using a shaft taper that is appropiate for your playing style and a properly groomed tip is just as good remedy for elminating deflection as much as possible as is any laminated shaft product.

The wood is softer because it is a lower grade wood. The wood they use is allot greener (younger) than the wood that is used by HighEnd custom cue makers. You will find this softer wood also in your low end productions cues that have solid maple shafts.
 
WesleyW said:
You forgot to mention that they can sell it for a really high price $200 :D .

But actually, I really don't think it will gives you lower deflection. I've played with different kind of cues with different kind of deflection. But never seen really differences between deflection. It's just sales talk. I always aims at the same spot with high and low deflection shaft, and it always do the same trick. I think the more important thing is consistency of the shaft. A laminated or really stiff cue give you more consistency.

Sir, I'm sorry to have to disagree with you on this one, but I must. Cue ball squirt due to shooting off the center axis will produce squirt, and the further out one goes on the horizontal axis, the greater will be the amount of squirt produced. I've cored several shafts ala Predator and the squirt really changed after doing the surgery. The hit also changed, and the power of the shaft also was effected, and became weaker.

If you doubt what I say, do your own test with an old shaft that doesn't mean anything to you. Drill out the top 3 inches or so with a 1/4 or 5/16 inch drill, and re-install the tip you removed. Shoot some power shots well off the center line before doing the surgery. Note how far off the cueing axis the ball goes, then do it with the hollowed out shaft, and see the difference.

Very enlightening to see the difference.

Flex
 
One thing I'd like to know is how hard rock maple is graded. What exactly is Grade A, or AA, or AAA? And what if the maple has none specified?

How do they all differ?

Flex
 
Flex said:
One thing I'd like to know is how hard rock maple is graded. What exactly is Grade A, or AA, or AAA? And what if the maple has none specified?

How do they all differ?

Flex
Depends who's selling it.
One big supplier/bullcrapper makes it sound like his worst shafts are still A grade.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Depends who's selling it.
One big supplier/bullcrapper makes it sound like his worst shafts are still A grade.

Ok, but what is A grade?

Flex
 
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