shafts 314 or ob1
- Thread starter CHRIS_SPORT
- Start date
RBC
Deceased
Joe,
I am sorry! I may have mislead you. I am in no way upset with your opinion. As a matter of fact, I appreciate you for speaking your mind. You provided your thoughts without any accusations, bashing, or anything personal. I wish more people would do that.
I actually see you comments as a possible expansion of our product line up. I have to admit, we are operating close to our capacity right now, but if people want an OB shaft with a white ferrule, then I need to look into when and how I can bring it to market.
Again, I appreciate your opinion, and how you communicated it. Keep it up!
Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
RBC
Deceased
Detlev,
The funny thing is that we are the only cue shaft that will stand behind our ferrule 100%. The reason for this is BECAUSE it is made from wood. Most ferrules crack or break because they are plastic. The ferrule and the wood in the cue shaft expand and contract due to moisture and temperature changes. When the ferrule is plastic, it reacts totally different than the wood it is glued to. This leads to cracks and broken ferrules and glue joints. When the ferrule is wood, the it reacts the same as the shaft wood so there are zero issues with the problems we always see with plastic ferrules.
If we were to put a plastic sleeve around the end of the shaft, then we would be right back in the same boat as everyone else. We would not be able to warrant it for life, because it would surely fail at some point.
The only weakness our wood ferrule has is mushrooming or spreading. We eliminate that issue with the carbon fiber pad. Carbon fiber has a tremendous tensile strength. This keeps the ferrule from spreading. We have seen very very few failures where the carbon fiber pad is in place.
Remember, we use the same ferrule on our break cues and shafts! I have been breaking with one for years. I am not the strongest breaker, but I hit it about 25mph. I have had zero issues!
Thanks to everyone!
Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
OB-2 shafts for me.
The OB shafts have the unusual looking ferrule and if I had my druthers I'd druther have a white ferrule because that's what I'm used to. If you made a ferrule the color of maple wood, I and others wouldn't be used to it and would complain.
I have been playing with my OB-2 shaft for about a month now and a thought about the ferrule never crosses my mind until I read about it in the forum or someone mentions, "Hey, isn't that one of the OB shafts?"
I like the consensus of comments from so many people. It gives you an idea of where you might want to go from where you are now.
I notice many things that the other members have mentioned, like:
The 11.75 mm on the OB-2 shaft doesn't seem small to me at all, especially after using it for a while.
Also, the ferrule design has disappeared from my radar screen.
I have always chalked carefully but I make sure to chalk on virtually every shot.
With the OB-2 I have been hitting some power shots and pocketing the object ball more consistently than I did with my 314-2. I don't know if it is because it is stiffer or not but I like the way the shaft performs. It seems that I shoot straighter than I did with the other shafts.
With Royce's statements about the ferrule being warranted for life, I am hitting them about as hard as I dare although I don't break with the OB-2.
I keep the 314-2 in my case for back up because I have only one OB-2 shaft but so far it hasn't been used since I started using the OB-2. This seems strange to me because I was almost convinced before I used it, that I couldn't adapt to the smaller diameter of the OB-2.
Every once in a while, I will hop the cue ball but I think this is caused by me attempting to hit the cue ball in places (with great success) that I don't normally hit the cue ball as well as some problems with jacking up unintentionally. I probably don't need to be hitting the cue ball that low or with that jacked up of a cue so I will pay more attention to a level cue, chalking up and a smooth stroke. The power shots that I am trying to incorporate into my game probably has a lot to do with the cue ball hop and Iwill just have to work through that.
Most of the things I have said above are just repetitions of what other people on the forum have said. I just wanted to say that I agree with a lot of what people say about the OB shafts.
You should try different shafts to find out what works best for you but everyone should make an effort to put the subjective thoughts out of your mind and allow the shaft's performance to speak for itself.
It's kind of like using a glove. You might think many different negative things about using a glove, but the bottom line is a glove will make the cue shaft slide through your hand more consistently smooth than ANY OTHER product or service to the shaft.
If you get past the subjective stuff and test a product for its performance you will be the better player for it.
http://www.asdatoz.com/Documents/Website- Objective vs subjective ltr.pdf (For Lou) ;-)
JoeyA
The OB shafts have the unusual looking ferrule and if I had my druthers I'd druther have a white ferrule because that's what I'm used to. If you made a ferrule the color of maple wood, I and others wouldn't be used to it and would complain.
I have been playing with my OB-2 shaft for about a month now and a thought about the ferrule never crosses my mind until I read about it in the forum or someone mentions, "Hey, isn't that one of the OB shafts?"
I like the consensus of comments from so many people. It gives you an idea of where you might want to go from where you are now.
I notice many things that the other members have mentioned, like:
The 11.75 mm on the OB-2 shaft doesn't seem small to me at all, especially after using it for a while.
Also, the ferrule design has disappeared from my radar screen.
I have always chalked carefully but I make sure to chalk on virtually every shot.
With the OB-2 I have been hitting some power shots and pocketing the object ball more consistently than I did with my 314-2. I don't know if it is because it is stiffer or not but I like the way the shaft performs. It seems that I shoot straighter than I did with the other shafts.
With Royce's statements about the ferrule being warranted for life, I am hitting them about as hard as I dare although I don't break with the OB-2.
I keep the 314-2 in my case for back up because I have only one OB-2 shaft but so far it hasn't been used since I started using the OB-2. This seems strange to me because I was almost convinced before I used it, that I couldn't adapt to the smaller diameter of the OB-2.
Every once in a while, I will hop the cue ball but I think this is caused by me attempting to hit the cue ball in places (with great success) that I don't normally hit the cue ball as well as some problems with jacking up unintentionally. I probably don't need to be hitting the cue ball that low or with that jacked up of a cue so I will pay more attention to a level cue, chalking up and a smooth stroke. The power shots that I am trying to incorporate into my game probably has a lot to do with the cue ball hop and Iwill just have to work through that.
Most of the things I have said above are just repetitions of what other people on the forum have said. I just wanted to say that I agree with a lot of what people say about the OB shafts.
You should try different shafts to find out what works best for you but everyone should make an effort to put the subjective thoughts out of your mind and allow the shaft's performance to speak for itself.
It's kind of like using a glove. You might think many different negative things about using a glove, but the bottom line is a glove will make the cue shaft slide through your hand more consistently smooth than ANY OTHER product or service to the shaft.
If you get past the subjective stuff and test a product for its performance you will be the better player for it.
http://www.asdatoz.com/Documents/Website- Objective vs subjective ltr.pdf (For Lou) ;-)
JoeyA
royce....do you think it would be possible to simulate a white ferrule and still keep the same wood construction? my idea would be to use very white, bleached maple wood (or some other kind of light wood) for the ferrule and seal it up real good with some CA. the ob shaft wood is on the darker side anyways, and using a snow white wood for the ferrule would create contrast and look fairly close to a "standard" pool shaft i think. and probably the whirl pattern on the ferrule would be more subtle and faded. just an idea....