eric think of it like this
cueball # multipied by object ball # equals aim number
Dude, I realize this. This question to the OP was rhetorical...
Eric
eric think of it like this
cueball # multipied by object ball # equals aim number
... 50/13 = 2.846, should be 3.846.
I think an much easier and faster way to aim kick shots like this is visually (with no numbers or math) using the system described and demonstrated in the following online video:
NV D.13 - Kick Shot Aiming Systems - from Vol-III of the Billiard University instructional DVD series
Enjoy,
Dave
I would assume everyone here knows, but each table plays differently. I've never understood how some people have these "systems" when new felt always slides, gold crowns are lower to the floor, diamonds have different rails, etc etc. You have to make adjustments, no matter what the equipment is. I don't use a system, nor do I ever plan to.
How hard are you hitting the cue ball here? Enough to slide it across the felt and hit the first rail with dead slide on the cue? Or are we hitting it with enough to get it rolling and have the ball roll end-over-end before hitting the first rail? That matters.
The only drawback to using the mirror system is that some people aren't visually oriented and have a hard time seeing, or adjusting to find the midpoint.
While it can be a lot simpler to come up with a quick multiplication and aim that way.
However, when you can use the mirror system, one rail kicks become deadly accurate when you measure from the CB to the ghostball aim point =P
System Sid is basically a mirror system that assumes the angle out is the same as the angle in. I pointed out to Walt Harris (author of the 4-volume Billiard Atlas series) that the correct numbers for the long cushion are actually slightly different from the numbers shown in the OP diagram. Walt said that may be true but the numbers shown are easier to remember and come close enough for most shots. If you want a totally accurate (according to the mirror) system, you also have to take into account that the cue ball does not reflect from the diamond line as shown in the diagram but rather from the rail groove which is about half a ball in front of the nose of the cushion.
A poster above said that the 1.0 on the top long rail should be 1.5. That's not right. The idealized correct value for that diamond based on mirror reflection, using the nose of the cushion as the reflection point and ignoring the diameter of the ball is 10/9 or 1.111 so 1.0 is a better value than 1.5. Here are the theoretical numbers for the long rail:
10/9 = 1.111
2
30/11 = 2.73
10/3 = 3.333 (side pocket)
50/13 = 3.846 (typpo fixed)
30/7 = 4.28
14/3 = 4.667
5 (corner pocket)
These are easy to work out with high-school-level geometry. If you want to include the rail-groove reflection as well as the landing spot on the second cushion corrected or not for the rail groove, and keep the diamond locations in the middle of the sort rails, the numbers get harder to calculate and even less even.
I think an much easier and faster way to aim kick shots like this is visually (with no numbers or math) using the system described and demonstrated in the following online video:
NV D.13 - Kick Shot Aiming Systems - from Vol-III of the Billiard University instructional DVD series
Enjoy,
Dave
System Sid is basically a mirror system that assumes the angle out is the same as the angle in. I pointed out to Walt Harris (author of the 4-volume Billiard Atlas series) that the correct numbers for the long cushion are actually slightly different from the numbers shown in the OP diagram. Walt said that may be true but the numbers shown are easier to remember and come close enough for most shots. If you want a totally accurate (according to the mirror) system, you also have to take into account that the cue ball does not reflect from the diamond line as shown in the diagram but rather from the rail groove which is about half a ball in front of the nose of the cushion.
A poster above said that the 1.0 on the top long rail should be 1.5. That's not right. The idealized correct value for that diamond based on mirror reflection, using the nose of the cushion as the reflection point and ignoring the diameter of the ball is 10/9 or 1.111 so 1.0 is a better value than 1.5. Here are the theoretical numbers for the long rail:
10/9 = 1.111
2
30/11 = 2.73
10/3 = 3.333 (side pocket)
50/13 = 3.846 (typpo fixed)
30/7 = 4.28
14/3 = 4.667
5 (corner pocket)
These are easy to work out with high-school-level geometry. If you want to include the rail-groove reflection as well as the landing spot on the second cushion corrected or not for the rail groove, and keep the diamond locations in the middle of the sort rails, the numbers get harder to calculate and even less even.
I would assume everyone here knows, but each table plays differently. I've never understood how some people have these "systems" when new felt always slides, gold crowns are lower to the floor, diamonds have different rails, etc etc. You have to make adjustments, no matter what the equipment is. I don't use a system, nor do I ever plan to.
How hard are you hitting the cue ball here? Enough to slide it across the felt and hit the first rail with dead slide on the cue? Or are we hitting it with enough to get it rolling and have the ball roll end-over-end before hitting the first rail? That matters.
As I stated in another post, I'm going to do my best to help you fellow pool players. Here's a neat kicking system for short to long rail kicks. Its actually pretty precise. Works perfectly on my table. Other tables may need slight adjustments.
Using the numbers on the side rail for destination, multiply by short rail number. The A, B, C, D, on short rail should read as 1, 2, 3, 4. To pocket ball in diagram, the destination is 3.1, the start position is 3. Aim for 9.3 on far rail. If the cue ball start position is at 4, aim at 12.4.
Of course if you needed to hit a ball at 4 and start is at 3, aim at 12. It is a very simple system to remember and use. With practice, it really does work.
I think you misunderstand how such systems are used. You find your starting point and ending point simultaneously, by adjusting your aim until the calculation works for both.The problem with systems like this is that in order to know where your cue ball *is*, you have to know where its going. In other words, in order to extend the line back to the rail you are kicking away from, you need to know where the cue ball is going in order to create that line. If you already know this, you don't need the system.
The benefit I see is using the system as a check for the point you have already decided to hit.
KMRUNOUT