Shortening newly installed layered tips

They cut it down so that it "hardens up" (gets to it's finished hardness) faster from regular play, which makes it act the way they want it to.
I use Triangles tips btw and don't need to do this. Just lightly shape and scuff and they're ready to go.
 
How many years of physics and mechanical engineering did you take in grad school ?
Look, if you can explain why my statement is untrue, that deflection increases (although probably not a consequential amount) when you trim a tip down because it both increases the mass in the forward six inches or so of the cue and because it changes the distribution of that mass in such a way as to shift if more forward where it has more affect, then please go ahead and do so in a way and with enough detail that we would all be able to understand because a whole bunch of us are game to learn things. A little bullet point list with no explanations isn't going to cut it.

I don't think you have the depth of understanding that you think you do so I won't be holding my breath that you will be able to give a detailed explanation, and so I certainly don't expect to be seeing one, but let's see if you surprise me with at least an effort.

Apparently testing has already been done that shows that as I suspected the tip height doesn't make a consequential difference to deflection, but perhaps Bob Jewett or Dr. Dave can give their thoughts on whether trimming the tip down increases or decreases deflection even if it is of an amount that makes no practical difference.
 
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I feel that most layered tips play best from the middle down,so as a player I've been taking at least the top 2 layers off,and then start my shaping. The tip currently on my main shaft is a medium Ultraskin.

This also applies to Kamuis when I've used them.

I also suggest the same to customers,some agree,some ask for that specifically,and some want it full height for longevity.

The last non layered tip I installed for a customer was an unpressed Elk Master,left as tall as I could to go along with his new ferrule. When I handed it back to him,he looked confused and asked why I cut so much of it down,LOL.

On the other hand,in one of the few times I've talked to Alex,he came up to Joe Blackburn's booth with a rush job,and at the time he was still using his old stitch ring Schon with a Predator shaft,and he wanted his Moori H cut down to half height THEN shaped,leaving a sidewall barely the thickness of a quarter. Tommy D.
 
Technical arguments aside ... I think players use what they're used to and what they trust. Any change that effects that perception won't be favored by the player.
 
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*Anything that's 'Not Normal' is the first thing blamed.*

It's far to easy to blame others or something else than to believe it was your fault.
It's like saying, I'M PERFECT. Pfffft, ya right.

20 years ago a company I worked for ordered a different finishing mud (plaster). It wasn't the normal type everyone was used to but complain they did big time.
I had no issue once I understood how/why it worked differently, in fact is was a better product. The difference was it had grit in it and when working it, it 'set up' a little quicker than overnight. The grit was a hardening agent and once it was (in essence) broken open and mixed it allowed a second or third coat in one day.
Motto? LEARN YOUR PRODUCT.
.
 
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IIRC Darren Appleton mentioned taking some height off his tips in one of his videos. I think it was the one where he was comparing Tiger's Onyx and Sniper tips.
 
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