Simulate Bar Table 8 Ball Break on 9 Footer

B

BasementDweller

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Simulate Bar Table 8 Ball Break on 9 Footer

Anybody ever do this before? I'm sure someone has.

I need to work on my 8 ball break a bit. What I want to do is figure out exactly where I would need to rack the balls and how far up I would need to move the headstring to simulate the same position of a bar table break.

What I want to work on is the 2nd ball break, so I'll be breaking from the side rail. I need to really dial in how hard I can hit that second ball.

Obviously I will have to move the head spot back a bit and closer to the side rail. Then I will have to move the headstring up a bit. I know the rack will look funny and the results (spread of balls) will not be accurate but I can't think of a reason why I can't get a good feel for the hit doing it this way.

I'm thinking I might need to break out the tape measure when nobody is around.

What do you think?
 
peppersauce said:
Why wouldn't you just practice your break on a bar box? And if one wasn't available, you can still practice the 2nd ball break on a 9-foot without moving anything. I'm a little confused...:scratchhead:
Click to expand...

I have a 9 footer at home and I'm really not around bar tables that much.

Breaking the balls on a bar table vs. a 9 footer is really quite different. Especially when you are talking about hitting the 2nd ball in the full rack. It's really the speed of the hit that matters most (and having a flat cue ball at impact). I could practice that all day long on a 9 footer and it wouldn't do me much good on a bar table. The speed of the hit is totally different.
 
Dont forget to modify the side pocket to match the bar table you will be playing on so you can get an accurate response.

j/k of course.
 
Last edited:
BasementDweller said:
What do you think?
Click to expand...
I think you're insane. But then again, aren't we all?

I think you have to do three things (I'm reiterating and confirming what you're proposing).

1. Move the rack towards the foot of the table
2. Move the rack towards the side of the table

I think you said head spot, but I believe you meant foot spot.

These two should simulate the corner pocket in play and how far in both X and Y you are to the corner pocket from that 2nd ball. I guess you can go to the local bar and measure where the foot spot is and transfer the measurements.

3. Move the virtual head string towards the foot of the table so that you are limited on angle.

What you can't simulate in this method is the head of the table and the corner pocket (the one you're bridging over/near) and how you're affected by it.

Good luck. It's an interesting idea.

Freddie <~~~ as insane as they come
 
Last edited:
The play surface on a 9' is 50 x 100 - each diamond is 12.5", on a bar box it's 40 x 80 - each diamond is 8".
Use the math to estimate how far you need the cb to be from the rack to make your attempt at gauging results from break speed.
Good luck. I get what you're trying to do, but you can't change the distance of the balls in the rack to the rails. That has an effect on some of your results, too... imo.
 
mdavis228 said:
I get what you're trying to do, but you can't change the distance of the balls in the rack to the rails. That has an effect on some of your results, too... imo.
Click to expand...

Why can't he change the distance of the balls in the rack to rails? Maybe I'm missing something simple.

I think he's more concerned with getting the cueball hit (hard, not flying off the table, not scratching).

Freddie
 
Your bridge can't be on the side rail or the angle into the rack is different than on a barbox...unless you move the rack to the side of the foot spot and that would be silly.

Go put some quarters in a barbox (I know, this is blasphemy to many players, to actually spend money to play pool).

Good luck,

Jeff Livingston
 
Scratch that, Freddie. What you said about moving the rack itself is an excellent idea, provided you learn from what you saw on those shortened distance sides. I agree, and understood, that his initial want seems to be "normalizing" the break speed vs distance. That's why I gave the measurements for help.
No arguments with anything you said.

The discussion about cue angle from the rail is excellent, as well.

Actually, I seldom use the 2nd ball break any more because I've learned to make one (or both) of the balls behind the head ball into the side pockets with pretty good regularity - on a box or a big table. I can also tell you that having the cb hang around the outer middle of the table after the break is painting a bullseye on it:-)

Simple game, huh?!
 
Last edited:
chefjeff said:
Your bridge can't be on the side rail or the angle into the rack is different than on a barbox...unless you move the rack to the side of the foot spot and that would be silly.

Go put some quarters in a barbox (I know, this is blasphemy to many players, to actually spend money to play pool).

Good luck,

Jeff Livingston
Click to expand...

I guess I'm silly then.

I was just thinking of making a small mark for the foot spot. Like Freddie said, it would have to be back a bit and closer to the side rail. Then I just would have to figure out where the head string would be and I'm good to go.

I'm sort of surprised some of you fellow pool addicts haven't done this before.

All I care about working on is the feel of the hit, not the spread of the balls.
 
mdavis228 said:
The play surface on a 9' is 50 x 100 - each diamond is 12.5", on a bar box it's 40 x 80 - each diamond is 8".
Use the math to estimate how far you need the cb to be from the rack to make your attempt at gauging results from break speed.
Good luck. I get what you're trying to do, but you can't change the distance of the balls in the rack to the rails. That has an effect on some of your results, too... imo.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the specs. I was wondering about the diamond width.

I'll probably still sneak out a tape measure, but don't tell anyone....I have a reputation to protect. If someone sees me I will have to have a story ready....hmmm:scratchhead:
 
Cornerman said:
I think you're insane. But then again, aren't we all?
...

Freddie <~~~ as insane as they come
Click to expand...



I think that's the bottom line - I am losing it a bit.

I'm in the midst of a pool frenzy. It's getting pretty bad. I've been falling asleep to YouTube videos and waking up and checking AZ first thing in the morning. I think my head is about to explode.

I need some help....perfect timing....it's league night tonight. Maybe I can find a little action afterwards.
 
BasementDweller said:
Then I just would have to figure out where the head string would be and I'm good to go. .
Click to expand...

Might as well then measure the foot spot to the head spot at the bar tonight so you can figure out where your virtual head string will be. . And take pictures!

But see the problem is that the head of the table might be in your body's way to actually do this.

Freddie <~~~ my racking skills suck on the WEI CueTable
 

Attachments

  • 7 on 9.jpg
    7 on 9.jpg
    35.2 KB · Views: 187
Cornerman said:
Might as well then measure the foot spot to the head spot at the bar tonight so you can figure out where your virtual head string will be. . And take pictures!

But see the problem is that the head of the table might be in your body's way to actually do this.

Freddie <~~~ my racking skills suck on the WEI CueTable
Click to expand...

The distance from the eightball to the side pocket would need to be accurate.
 
What about changing how close you put the cue ball to the rail?

Basically:
closer to the rail =
stick must angle downwards more to hit with draw =
more unwanted jump action.

Instead of trying to figure out how much you can water down your speed, maybe try moving the CB a few more inches off the rail? Then you can level out the stick so you get less airborne.

Also if you make a closed bridge when breaking off the rail (meaning your thumb is under the stick, and resting on the rail)... switch to letting the stick slide on the rail itself without your thumb, and just use your first two fingers as guides. This lets you level it out even more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top