sledge hammer vs Predator BK....what do u prefer and why?

pinoyincalgary

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,
I am planning to purchase one of these but have not had the opportunity to try them out. Any input would be helpful. Thank you.
 
pinoyincalgary said:
Hi,
I am planning to purchase one of these but have not had the opportunity to try them out. Any input would be helpful. Thank you.


I prefer the Sledge because whether it's a 9ball rack or a full rack the balls break open like an atomic bomb hit them, unlike anything else I've ever used for over 40 years. In my case with the Predator, it really isn't too far behind.
It's a real good break cue. Somebody else might have it rated just the opposite. You should be good and confused at the end of this.
 
I always considered these break cues BS. One day I found myself with more $$ than sense (not uncommon a $20 will usually cover that) and I purchased a Predator BK. I had heard about the Sledgehammer and I find I have a reaction to atomic fallout so I went with the BK. To my surprise I really do get a much better break with than my regular cue. I’m not sure if more balls go in the holes or if it actually gives me any advantage in the match, but it sure makes the balls roll around the table more. I'm hooked on it now.
 
I have a Bk break stick it hits pretty good makes a good break better, I hit the Sledgehammer and it hits harder more speed on the cue...But a good break shot is'nt just about hitting the ball harder....Six of one half a dozen of another....A great break does'nt start with the stick..
 
controll

I just bought a sledghammer, and have been having trouble controlling the cue ball on the break. Anyone else have this problem, what did you do to change this, I normaly have pretty good cue ball controll the the break with my normal cue.

Mack
 
stolz2 said:
I just bought a sledghammer, and have been having trouble controlling the cue ball on the break. Anyone else have this problem, what did you do to change this, I normaly have pretty good cue ball controll the the break with my normal cue.

Mack


You can do a couple of things...play around with the weight bolt and either make it a little to a lot heavier (which will require calling Mike for a new heavy one) Or, break the balls a lot easier than you're used to. You'll gain control and the rack will still open up.
 
FWIW Here's my comparative review of the 2 sticks, plus the Stealth jump stick. This is necessary because the jump component is part of the decision, especially for 9 Ball players.

For the most part I prefer my BK and Stealth combination, but the SH is a very close second. YMMV.
 
just logging in to ask the same question...if I could add one cue to the question? Jerico J/B Cues The Stinger and The Thumper(older version I think?)...currently I break with a basic two piece Fury DL, (cheap and I can hammer on it), but I noticed last night in a match that it's beginning to warp from the 'snap'...so I'm in the market for a J/B cue now...I noticed that BCA and BCA Master Instructor Tom Simpson endorse the Jerico Stinger...any advice on any of these would be appreciated...
 
I like the control I get form a leather tip. With a phenolic tip, you feel like you get more power because of the sound--but do you really make more balls and run out more racks? Everyone has a different style and different breaking speed, so it is really heard to generalize. I do see a lot of players using a sledgehammer and loss the cue ball because they are trying to hit the ball as hard as possible. The interesting thing is they do not even know they are not breaking all that well--they think just because of the sound and that a ball drops, they must be doing something right.
Break shot is like any other shot that requires a lot of practise. And it is a shot you get to execute at least once every two games in an alternate break format. A precise break sets the tone for the whole match. There is no magic cue without practise.
When I use the sledgehammer, I try to hit the ball softer. I think that is the way to go.
The Sledgehammer has a pretty long taper and if the player hits the bottom of the cue ball, it will draw back. It is very important to hit the center of the cue ball and it is easier to get used to that by hitting the cue ball softer to begin with.
I know some people like the Bk with a hard tip. I personally like that better becasue I can control my ball a bit more precise and get a bit more power with the phenolic tip. But my favorite is a leather tip. It is something I have gotten used to. Believe me, if you know how to move your body with good timing, you do not need a hard tip to smack the pack.

Tiff
 
Ok the pbk is a good cue to hold the rock .with out reshaping the tip .If u want a SH to stop sliding turn the dime shap tip in to a nickel ..or flatten the tip some and u'll stop the slide.All so y pay 200 300 for a BK q .And u can get a fury bk cue or a bunjee jump break cue and pay lees and get the same action ..I jus got a mezz bk q and i'll say this it's the nuts ..And stopin the rock... on a dime .. :) :) :)
 
I believe either the Sledgehammer or Predator BK are fine break cues. I think breaking has to do more with the speed of your break, tip placement and tip shape. I use a Mace J/B and at first my cue ball was all over the place everytime I broke. I was winding up way back trying to slam the cue and I never really took a look at where the tip was contacting the cue.

After talking with a few friends, I basically flattened out the water buffalo tip on my Mace. I paid more careful attention that I hit the cue basically center or just a wee bit below. Most importantly I think what affected my break was I didn't try to slam the cue into the rack. I stroked regular and hit just a tad more than medium speed. I regularly pocket 2 balls on average on the break now, my cue ball stays around the middle of the table and is usually lined up with the next ball I'd have to pocket after the break.

I have yet to break and run because I'm a "D" player in 9 ball, but the little things I did to change my break has given me a slight advantage in my league play.
 
Tiffpoolbum said:
With a phenolic tip, you feel like you get more power because of the sound--Tiff

good post.

although, you do get more "power" with the phenolic tip. it transfers more energy into the cue ball upon impact.

leather is soft and therefore it gives upon impact, where the phenolic tip does not give as much, therefore transferring more energy upon impact.

personally i have both break cues (not an actual sledgehammer, but has the same type phenolic ferrule/tip)

i can break very well with both of them, although as said previously there are different techniques for each cue.

if you like stroking the cue pretty hard, go with the BK with a leather tip. as you will be able to put more stroke into it and still be able to control the cue.

with the sledgehammer, you don't have to stroke nearly as hard, but you still get as good or better results. some people have trouble controlling the cue with the sledge, although i personally haven't had a problem at all with it.

i did notice that with the sledgehammer, i ran into one problem, i was hitting the rack with what i call "50 yard line power" it was enough to get the rack to spread open well, but weak enough to leave the 1 ball on the short rail instead of around the corner pocket where i'm trying to leave it. so i had to adjust and learn to control the cue while stroking a little harder.

still with the sledehammer, i'm getting as good or better results hitting the cue at about 60-70 percent power than i was with the BK hitting at 80-90 percent..............

VAP
 
vapoolplayer said:
good post.

although, you do get more "power" with the phenolic tip. it transfers more energy into the cue ball upon impact.

leather is soft and therefore it gives upon impact, where the phenolic tip does not give as much, therefore transferring more energy upon impact.

personally i have both break cues (not an actual sledgehammer, but has the same type phenolic ferrule/tip)

i can break very well with both of them, although as said previously there are different techniques for each cue.

if you like stroking the cue pretty hard, go with the BK with a leather tip. as you will be able to put more stroke into it and still be able to control the cue.

with the sledgehammer, you don't have to stroke nearly as hard, but you still get as good or better results. some people have trouble controlling the cue with the sledge, although i personally haven't had a problem at all with it.

i did notice that with the sledgehammer, i ran into one problem, i was hitting the rack with what i call "50 yard line power" it was enough to get the rack to spread open well, but weak enough to leave the 1 ball on the short rail instead of around the corner pocket where i'm trying to leave it. so i had to adjust and learn to control the cue while stroking a little harder.

still with the sledehammer, i'm getting as good or better results hitting the cue at about 60-70 percent power than i was with the BK hitting at 80-90 percent..............

VAP
That is a good post .I'll look in to taken some off the break .and see if i can make more balls now i can make 3 to 4 balls in the break now and stop the rock in the middle ...
So is that good .or what ????
 
deadstroke32 said:
That is a good post .I'll look in to taken some off the break .and see if i can make more balls now i can make 3 to 4 balls in the break now and stop the rock in the middle ...
So is that good .or what ????

well, if you're making 3-4 balls on the break and stopping whitey.......i'm not sure if you can get much better.

for me though i like being able to just stroke the cue with a medium firm hit and get the same results as i got using a more firm/hard stroke. i'm consistently making a 1-2 balls on the break and squatting the cue.

and if you're breaking that good, you must not lose much?........ :D

VAP
 
pinoyincalgary said:
Hi,
I am planning to purchase one of these but have not had the opportunity to try them out. Any input would be helpful. Thank you.

I've had both and how you like it depends on your break style and for what purpose you want the cue. I bought the Sledgehammer jump break to replace my break cue and separate Bunjee jump cue.

I sold the my Predator BK a while ago. I found it was more like a normal playing cue than a break cue. I did not see the benefit of Predator technology when I was breaking center ball most of the time.

I think the Sledgehammer break cue is very good and I think the jump cue part is excellent. I get pretty good control jumping with this cue. The jump handle is nice and thick. You can put draw on the jump action if you want to kill the shot. The tip actually holds chalk well even though it's very hard phenolic because it's not smooth. You can go to a control break and still get good ball action. You can hit a center ball break hard and stop the cueball dead.

I like the Sledgehammer jump break and plan on keeping it. I got it new in the package from Don Purdy (Purdman) for $225 - a very good deal.

Chris
 
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stolz2 said:
I just bought a sledghammer, and have been having trouble controlling the cue ball on the break. Anyone else have this problem, what did you do to change this, I normaly have pretty good cue ball controll the the break with my normal cue.

Mack

It just takes some practice. I had a problem at first with the siderail break with cueball popping up and following through the rack. It takes a different flight path I guess. I had to level out the stroke a little, bridging further back and moving the cueball out from the rail, (maybe 4" - 5" off the rail) to achieve this. I can now break hard and stop the cueball dead with a level stroke. However, I found the most effective break for me was taking a little off the speed and shooting center ball as level as possible.

Chris
 
Doug Foster's Jump/Break is far superior to both of them, and with Doug you get a custom designed cue designed exactly to your specs, all at the same price!! and he's local to you! check him out at www.fostercues.com
 
Well first off, i dont see the point of paying 200-400$ for a break cue, when you can buy a cheap Action J/B put a phenolic tip on it, and its the same as a SledgeHammer or Predator BK.

I have a old Viking VM34, and put the Phenolic Ferrule/tip combo on it last yr, and it works the same as a SledgeHammer or Predator BK.

I have used a Predator BK before and i did like the way it would break up a rack and the control i got with the cue.

I also tried out the Fury J/B and for 160$ or what ever it costs, it breaks the rack nice.

some friends of mine also SWEAR by the Gilbert J/B
 
I use a Fury J/B with a phenolic tip. Basically one of those SledgeHammer like cues. Very cheap, breaks the rack nicely. It's ideal as a break cue: stiff, light, plain looking, cheap and gets the job done. You wouldn't dream of using it for playing.

The BK cue is much nicer cue, of much better build quality and balance. That's why I didn't select the BK as my break cue. Why? Because I believe that break cue must not be good as a playing cue, which the BK is (with leather tip).
 
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predator said:
I use a Fury J/B with a phenolic tip. Basically one of those SledgeHammer like cues. Very cheap, breaks the rack nicely. It's ideal as a break cue: stiff, light, plain looking, cheap and gets the job done. You wouldn't dream of using it for playing.

The BK cue is much nicer cue, of much better build quality and balance. That's why I didn't select the BK as my break cue. Why? Because I believe that break cue must not be good as a playing cue, which the BK is (with leather tip).


Croatia??? Don't you have bigger problems to worry about then which break cue works better?
 
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