Sleeve or not

opiesbro

opiesbro

Big Al Customs
Silver Member
I am repairing this shaft and just wanted to get some opinions. My plan was to epoxy it back up and clamp it. Then turn it down and sleeve it. But then I got to thinking maybe all that isn't necessary because the epoxy will be stronger than the wood. The other reason I have concerns is he breaks with it.

uploadfromtaptalk1394898884675.jpguploadfromtaptalk1394898898383.jpg

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tough call

i think i might do the epox thing, then step drill past the crack, then epox a dowel in place then redrill and tap
 
Chuck gave you the proper procedure.
I'd also suggest a phen. banding collar.

KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
Chuck gave you the proper procedure.
I'd also suggest a phen. banding collar.

KJ
Click to expand...

KJ, can you trust that piece with your indicator ?
Wood's all swollen up and probably not even round anymore.
I know the pic can't the taper b/c one side is split .
My collets to the 1" ID bearing have .020" taper per inch.
I hate shaft that have steeper taper than that the first 3 inches.

Is this piece doomed to have a lip when joined with the butt?

PS
The owner smacked that thing.
It might be cheaper for him just to buy a $30 Chinese shaft on Fleabay.
 
I repaired one about 3 months ago with even more shattering. First I removed the insert. I then used round toothpicks to keep the pieces spread open while I applied Gorilla Glue to the wood. (Be sure the wood is wet with water first or the Gorilla Glue will not work properly.) I then removed the toothpicks, and clamped it all together with rubber bands and let it set a day. I then reinstalled the insert, cut the rubber bands off with a razor, and installed a linen reinforced joint collar. After sanding, I did a quick thin CA finish. The repair was barely visible when I was finished. My customer uses it daily with no change to the hit whatsoever according to him. Wear gloves when using the Gorilla Glue as it can get quite messy.

Also be sure to dry fit the insert to make sure everything is still straight. In my case it was, but it may require plugging and retapping for the insert.

Good luck.
 
ekb6760 said:
I repaired one about 3 months ago with even more shattering. First I removed the insert. I then used round toothpicks to keep the pieces spread open while I applied Gorilla Glue to the wood. (Be sure the wood is wet with water first or the Gorilla Glue will not work properly.) I then removed the toothpicks, and clamped it all together with rubber bands and let it set a day. I then reinstalled the insert, cut the rubber bands off with a razor, and installed a linen reinforced joint collar. After sanding, I did a quick thin CA finish. The repair was barely visible when I was finished. My customer uses it daily with no change to the hit whatsoever according to him. Wear gloves when using the Gorilla Glue as it can get quite messy.

Also be sure to dry fit the insert to make sure everything is still straight. In my case it was, but it may require plugging and retapping for the insert.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

You do not need water for GG to work.... if the humidity is above 25% it will work just fine................ I have never added water for GG and it expands correctly........

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
You do not need water for GG to work.... if the humidity is above 25% it will work just fine................ I have never added water for GG and it expands correctly........
Click to expand...

I'll give it a try it next time. I was just following GG directions on the bottle.
 
JoeyInCali said:
KJ, can you trust that piece with your indicator ?
Wood's all swollen up and probably not even round anymore.
I know the pic can't the taper b/c one side is split .
My collets to the 1" ID bearing have .020" taper per inch.
I hate shaft that have steeper taper than that the first 3 inches.

Is this piece doomed to have a lip when joined with the butt?

PS
The owner smacked that thing.
It might be cheaper for him just to buy a $30 Chinese shaft on Fleabay.
Click to expand...

The cue was either smacked or the operator was giving his M.Segal impression. I suspect the latter.
The first thing I'd do is get the wood glued back together (sans insert) to see what I had to work with.
The indicator may not come out of the cabinet. I wouldn't do the job unless the owner agreed to a phen.collar.
Maintaining some semblance of a center-line, I know that once the collar is installed and cut to size, I'm golden.
There may be some deviation in the wood behind the ring but you can do some amazing things with a good finish routine.
It's back to round when I'm done. 25 yrs experience at this can give you some options and confidence in what you're doing.
It's all I do anymore, dbl. shifts 7 days a week..............and I wouldn't have it any other way.

KJ
 
Here is an update of the repair.
jeqe4uby.jpg

mygerure.jpg

So I epoxied and clamped the split piece back together with the intension of coring and putting a phenolic collar. I was not happy with the crack though and the customer wanted a natural wood look.
8y5eme3a.jpg

So here is plan "B".
zy7ypytu.jpg

ja3ezuta.jpg

And here it is complete with some finish. The joint lines up and the cue rolls straight. Most important the customer is happy.

Thanks everyone for the advice!

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