SLIDING BANK DIAMOND SYSTEMS … How to Aim Banks at Fast-Speed or Close-to-the-Cushion

Good stuff Dave. I have actually figured this out long time ago and used it with great success. I also use it on one rail kicks too. One can easily make hangers from pockets but also from further too. Especially if ball happen to be on banking line or close to(minor adjusts are easy to make). Kicks are harder to execute than banks and are very good stroke practice too. Ps. Rubber deforming is a thing when try estimate line to kick.
 
The "spot on the wall" stuff or one of the systems I presented?

Dr. Dave, I'm perhaps overly reliant on the spot on the wall system. Any suggestions on how to compensate when the only available "spot" is much farther from the pocket than the 3.3 diamond length? For instance, if the nearest fixed reference spot is 20 feet away? I've had some luck just guessing by looking at the midpoint between two measurements (e.g., measuring the 2 to 1 diamond path and the 3 to 1.5 diamond path for slow rolling banks and taking the midpoint of the two resulting spots).

The right answer is probably just to calculate the aiming spot using one of the diamond methods for each shot.
 
No. Just use of those referens tracks you showed. I got 5 more tracks from end rail too.
Here they are roughly and fast made but maybe you could test them out with your scientific method?
I myself use on kicks kinda same touch of hit that ball are just end of slide when it hit the rail. Kinda very small stun through. I found it is easier to execute because even small draw will easily bend the cueball backwards. Also if shooting rail from close distance ball can be slightly on air and that can ruin shot too. I use these long tracks slightly less speed than side rail tracks then.
I used to practice all "tracks" first shooting them from exact track and then after i shoot them pure i throw all balls randomly on table(not close rails) and did shoot until i kicked in all 15 balls in one inning..
 

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Dr. Dave, I'm perhaps overly reliant on the spot on the wall system. Any suggestions on how to compensate when the only available "spot" is much farther from the pocket than the 3.3 diamond length?

You can used your cue like I demonstrate in the video. There is almost never a "wall" where you need a "spot." For more info, see:


The right answer is probably just to calculate the aiming spot using one of the diamond methods for each shot.

Yes. You can find where a "spot" is for a particular type of kick or bank by finding where any two system lines intersect. FYI, I show spot location for many types of kicks and banks in the articles and videos at the link above.
 
Here they are roughly and fast made but maybe you could test them out with your scientific method?

Your track lines agree with the Paul Scofield 8-10-12 system I will demonstrate in my next video along with a useful system for large-angle side-pocket banks also.
 
Your track lines agree with the Paul Scofield 8-10-12 system I will demonstrate in my next video along with a useful system for large-angle side-pocket banks also.
I use same system as to corner to side pocket. Just flip same tracks around. Of course there is slight adjusts but very reliable and fast, easy to use.
 
I use same system as to corner to side pocket. Just flip same tracks around. Of course there is slight adjusts but very reliable and fast, easy to use.

Are you referring to your tracks in the image is post 25? I don't see how you could flip those for side-pocket banks.
 
Are you referring to your tracks in the image is post 25? I don't see how you could flip those for side-pocket banks.
No. i meant tracks you show on video. These are just 3 min fast draw but they are very close. I should shoot some to remember all exactly. I see them when im on table :D
side pocket tracks.png
 
Also. When i practice shooting on tracks i only count shots where cueball have no sideway movement. I always have been little bothered your videos where you shoot and demonstrate that 1/3 system and your cueball have always little movement to left. It means you did not hit it perfectly on line. Not big deal. Just observation.
I find it critical to always note what cueball do after hit when practice banks. Any bank actually.
Here is what i talk about. around 4:00
 
Also. When i practice shooting on tracks i only count shots where cueball have no sideway movement. I always have been little bothered your videos where you shoot and demonstrate that 1/3 system and your cueball have always little movement to left. It means you did not hit it perfectly on line. Not big deal. Just observation.
I find it critical to always note what cueball do after hit when practice banks. Any bank actually.
Here is what i talk about. around 4:00

Agreed. I was too sloppy with the shots in that excerpt from a previous video. I was much more careful with all the new shots in the new video.
 
Agreed. I was too sloppy with the shots in that excerpt from a previous video. I was much more careful with all the new shots in the new video.
BTW have you noticed how fast(slide) banks seem to always be around 6-7 degrees tighter on rebound than coming angle? ;)
 
Agreed. I was too sloppy with the shots in that excerpt from a previous video. I was much more careful with all the new shots in the new video.

Actually, I forgot that I edited out sections of that excerpt. I was making small corrections in that original video to account for the table playing a little long on the first two tracks:


That's why the CB was drifting sideways. I did it on purpose to make the corrections to the system at the low end. I guess I should not have edited the excerpt so much or at least mentioned why the CB was drifting.
 
Actually, I forgot that I edited out sections of that excerpt. I was making small corrections in that original video to account for the table playing a little long on the first two tracks:


That's why the CB was drifting sideways. I did it on purpose to make the corrections to the system at the low end. I guess I should not have edited the excerpt so much or at least mentioned why the CB was drifting.
Yea. Now it makes sense. I bet 99.9% of people not notice anything though :D
It is not big deal but for me learning tracks it is. And when try teach banks too.
Your video is great and i just nitpicking here. This is IMHO best way to learn and get better on banks and kicks.
One thing I forgot to add when using these on fast kicks is added "Efren" effect. One can make ball close almost always and when using speed you can get lucky quite often. Especially if you kick lonely ball. Slow speed it is very hard then get safe.
 
Your track lines agree with the Paul Scofield 8-10-12 system I will demonstrate in my next video along with a useful system for large-angle side-pocket banks also.
i googled Paul Scofield 8-10-12 system and Paul Schofield 8-10-12 system and couldnt find anything related
 
Another great video!
Thanks for sharing!

Here's a neat fractional banking method that I came up with a few months ago. It's very easy to work and manipulate as needed.

It works well when the ob is froze or very close to the cushion. Aim a little thinner if the cb is closer than about 10 inches from the ob.

Anytime the cb-ob centerline is parallel to the end rail, as shown with shots 1 thru 4, the aim reference is equal to whatever diamond value the shot is lying on (4, 5, 6, or whatever...). For every half diamond that the centerline is off from being parallel, adjust the aim by +/- 1.0. These are just 1/8 aiming references with 0 being a full ball hit and 7 being a 1/8 hit.

The example shot to the bottom right pocket is a 6 if lined straight on with the ob.

These aim references may not be perfectly accurate, but they are always consistent, and this consistency helps the mind learn quicker. This method can really help a player develop a great eye/feel for these types of bank shots.

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