Smaller shafts on bar tables?

cluelesscuer

New member
Has anyone taking the strategy of using the big bigger pro taper shaft on full size tables, 314 or ob, but then when playing on a bar table (a smart bar table, where the cue ball is not heavier) using one of the small conocilan tapers like an z2, or ob2??? So basically depending on the table, a player would pick the appropriate shaft.

Any thoughts on this?
 
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Has anyone taking the strategy of using the big bigger pro taper shaft on full size tables, 314 or ob, but then when playing on a bar table (a smart bar table, where the cue is not heavier) using one of the small conocilan tapers like an z2, or ob2??? So basically depending on the table, a player would pick the appropriate shaft.

Any thoughts on this?

I don't understand your real question. So I ask, Why?

randyg
 
Well, I was thinking, and perhaps incorrectly, that a z2 or ob2 would better provide the needs of bar table pool...shorter distance shots and more clusters where pinpoint cue ball positioning is more needed.

Where on the bigger table, a big tip would be better for the longer shots that are needed.


??????????????
 
Well, I was thinking, and perhaps incorrectly, that a z2 or ob2 would better provide the needs of bar table pool...shorter distance shots and more clusters where pinpoint cue ball positioning is more needed.

Where on the bigger table, a big tip would be better for the longer shots that are needed.


??????????????

Now I understand a little.
My answer would be this: makes no difference.

The tip to cue ball contact size is the same for all tips. The visual on the cue ball may vary slightly.

randyg
 
For Bar Boxes (3.5'x7')

On 7' tables, long shots do not really seem like long shots since I principally play on 9' tables. And I never have to use a bridge on a 7' table because the pockets are much bigger on 7' tables, except for Diamond tables, that I can easily shoot any shot left handed even though I'm a right handed pool player.

I've found that the 7' tables generally do not involve as much long shot accuracy, ex., rail shots, banks and extreme cut shots, as does a 9' table. On 9' tables, I play with 13mm shafts and when I play APA or any bar box table (7'), I switch to playing with 12.65mm shafts. I don't think I can even recall the last time I played on a 7' table and left myself a 7' shot (table length). The cue ball and object balls shots tend to be closer shots than at 7' distances and on a 9' table, a 5 ft. or 6ft. shot is one I can work with extremely well using one rail or 2 rails cue ball position shape.
onesy
The rails are my best friend allowing me to take full advantage of tangent shots, horizontal English, 30 degrees deflection, hangers, etc. Let's be completely truthful and face the hard cold facts......a 7' table makes weaker opponents a stronger opponent because it's easier........Duh? Switch the game to a 9' table and the game definitely becomes much harder......Jump over to a 10' table and then the fun & agony begins simultaneously.
 
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this requires 20-30% more spin, AND you have to hit the shots firmer too on the .....

Has anyone taking the strategy of using the big bigger pro taper shaft on full size tables, 314 or ob, but then when playing on a bar table (a smart bar table, where the cue ball is not heavier) using one of the small conocilan tapers like an z2, or ob2??? So basically depending on the table, a player would pick the appropriate shaft.

Any thoughts on this?

We always did this with the Diameter of the shaft, the bigger the table, the smaller the shaft size. I will use a 12.75 on a bar table, and go all the way down to an 11 on a 10' Table.

The reason is on the bigger tables you need to have the ability to "quick spin" the cue ball much more often. On a bar table I can play for hours and will not need to do this. When you start playing 10' tables you will need to move the cue ball around more and this requires 20-30% more spin, AND you have to hit the shots firmer too on the average.

I know many "Road Players" that use this system, and they all got the money, no matter what size the table was. Not everyone will agree with us, however the majority will, especially the ones that had to play on every size table to survive. 'The Game is the Teacher'.com
 
We always did this with the Diameter of the shaft, the bigger the table, the smaller the shaft size. I will use a 12.75 on a bar table, and go all the way down to an 11 on a 10' Table.

The reason is on the bigger tables you need to have the ability to "quick spin" the cue ball much more often. On a bar table I can play for hours and will not need to do this. When you start playing 10' tables you will need to move the cue ball around more and this requires 20-30% more spin, AND you have to hit the shots firmer too on the average.

I know many "Road Players" that use this system, and they all got the money, no matter what size the table was. Not everyone will agree with us, however the majority will, especially the ones that had to play on every size table to survive. 'The Game is the Teacher'.com

Yup...them toothpicks work great on tight equipment if ya know how to use them.
 
We always did this with the Diameter of the shaft, the bigger the table, the smaller the shaft size. I will use a 12.75 on a bar table, and go all the way down to an 11 on a 10' Table.

The reason is on the bigger tables you need to have the ability to "quick spin" the cue ball much more often. On a bar table I can play for hours and will not need to do this. When you start playing 10' tables you will need to move the cue ball around more and this requires 20-30% more spin, AND you have to hit the shots firmer too on the average.

I know many "Road Players" that use this system, and they all got the money, no matter what size the table was. Not everyone will agree with us, however the majority will, especially the ones that had to play on every size table to survive. 'The Game is the Teacher'.com

Years ago a few of us played on the barbox with 14mm shafts, including Billy Johnson.
 
We always did this with the Diameter of the shaft, the bigger the table, the smaller the shaft size. I will use a 12.75 on a bar table, and go all the way down to an 11 on a 10' Table.

The reason is on the bigger tables you need to have the ability to "quick spin" the cue ball much more often. On a bar table I can play for hours and will not need to do this. When you start playing 10' tables you will need to move the cue ball around more and this requires 20-30% more spin, AND you have to hit the shots firmer too on the average.

I know many "Road Players" that use this system, and they all got the money, no matter what size the table was. Not everyone will agree with us, however the majority will, especially the ones that had to play on every size table to survive. 'The Game is the Teacher'.com

Yup...them toothpicks work great on tight equipment if ya know how to use them.

Totally agree with the above quotes. I just came in from 2 hrs onna BB and didn't need much spin at all. (its rare you get jammed so bad that you need some crazy spin to get out of safely),its mostly position play.

Those snooker tables in the UK are huge (like 12 ft.) ,and they use long cues with
8 mm tips. Thinkin' there's gotta be a reason there,.......................:wink:
 
The bigger the table, the smaller the shaft, that's a good "rule of thumb"

Years ago a few of us played on the barbox with 14mm shafts, including Billy Johnson.

That's right, some of the greatest Bar Box players used over 13mm like "Omaha John and Surfer Rod", "Brock", Weldon Rogers, Matlock, and I did too at the time. We also had to play with oversized cue balls and heavy ones as well so the bigger shafts were preferred.

The bigger the table, the smaller the shaft, that's a good "rule of thumb" and I've used it all of my playing career. 'The Game is the Teacher'.com
 
If the smaller shaft enables better draw etc. then why not just use the better drawing cue all the time, not just on the bigger tables? I don't see any special advantage to a larger tip diameter, can't one size fit all in this case?
 
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