what do you use to clean your shaft? I felt this one guys cue shaft and it was like incredibly smooth and he said he has his own secret way of doing it which he doesnt tell anyone, what a fag i know but that got me to put up this post, what do you use to clean your cues which makes them super slick, my cues get dirty real fast and also how do i get the chalk not to stain my ferrule and cue, whats your special way of cleaning your cue?
smooth shaft
- Thread starter Varsity2016
- Start date
I have been using SlipStic for a little while and it works great. It cleans the shaft and makes it very smooth. www.slipstic.com:cool:
Good old dish soap and water.
Get a rag damp and add a drop or two of soap. Wrap your shaft and clean it up. When you are done, do the Ferrule. When you are down with that. Take a dry rag and squeeze your shaft with your hand while rubbing it back and forth real quick to create a little heat friction. This has been working great for years.
No silly products required.
Get a rag damp and add a drop or two of soap. Wrap your shaft and clean it up. When you are done, do the Ferrule. When you are down with that. Take a dry rag and squeeze your shaft with your hand while rubbing it back and forth real quick to create a little heat friction. This has been working great for years.
No silly products required.
Magic Eraser
I use magic eraser from the grocery store. It removes all of the chalk residue. It slightly raises the grain, then I use 2000 grit sandpaper, I know I will hear about from the people here but it doesnt remove hardly any material but it does make the shaft smooth.
Ken
I use magic eraser from the grocery store. It removes all of the chalk residue. It slightly raises the grain, then I use 2000 grit sandpaper, I know I will hear about from the people here but it doesnt remove hardly any material but it does make the shaft smooth.
Ken
Varsity2016 said:
This will be the best $3 you ever spent on pool. Go and buy a couple of Mr. Clean's Magic Erasers, I think they come in 4 or 6 packs for about $3. Rip a piece off one, and put a few drops of rubbing alcohol on it, and wipe down your cue shaft. It will raise the grain ALOT and get every speck of dirt out of your shaft. There is no better way to completely clean it. After your shaft turns brand new again, burnish as thorough as you can with a piece of leather or whatever burnishing material you have (leather works great). Sand your shaft with fine grained sand paper, burnish again, sand again, burnish again. Just be sure to smooth down all that raised grain, or you will damage the shaft
PoolSleuth
Banned
Best Stuff I have found is Slic Stick from a guy here on AZ B..
Nothing.
continued use will leave the shaft with a nice patina....caused from repeated stroking and your own body oils.
Every once in a great while you can use magic erasure or water and soap after taking out various dings etc...
When you start getting obsessive about the cleanliness of you're shaft, you will eventually end up with a tooth pick....even if you use 2000 grit.
Regards,
Doug
continued use will leave the shaft with a nice patina....caused from repeated stroking and your own body oils.
Every once in a great while you can use magic erasure or water and soap after taking out various dings etc...
When you start getting obsessive about the cleanliness of you're shaft, you will eventually end up with a tooth pick....even if you use 2000 grit.
Regards,
Doug
the most miraculous product to ever hit the billiard industry in my opinion is www.slipstic.com i have never been so happy with a product from any field, billiards or not! here is what i do for a perfect shaft.
step 1: use either Q-clean, slipstic cleaner, or a touch of ajax and thorughly clean your shaft.
step 2: rub rubbing alcohol on shaft for protection.
step 3: here is the miracle part, if someone was to say what's the secret to keeping your shaft perfect, here it is~~~~ take 2, that's right 2 drops!!! of slip stic, put it on your index finger, and just touch the shaft a couple of times!!!! then wait 15 mins. take the softest cotton cloth you could find, and touch the shaft with that a couple of times, and that's it! you will have a perfect shaft for 1 month!, it will not be effected by:
dirt
humidity
food
grease
or anything you could think of! the slipstic divedes from the shaft, making them two different oddities!!!! this was invented by the world's biggest company dupont, and it is the ultimate shaft cleaner. i hope i convinced you to try it, go to www.slipstic.com and order some today!
step 1: use either Q-clean, slipstic cleaner, or a touch of ajax and thorughly clean your shaft.
step 2: rub rubbing alcohol on shaft for protection.
step 3: here is the miracle part, if someone was to say what's the secret to keeping your shaft perfect, here it is~~~~ take 2, that's right 2 drops!!! of slip stic, put it on your index finger, and just touch the shaft a couple of times!!!! then wait 15 mins. take the softest cotton cloth you could find, and touch the shaft with that a couple of times, and that's it! you will have a perfect shaft for 1 month!, it will not be effected by:
dirt
humidity
food
grease
or anything you could think of! the slipstic divedes from the shaft, making them two different oddities!!!! this was invented by the world's biggest company dupont, and it is the ultimate shaft cleaner. i hope i convinced you to try it, go to www.slipstic.com and order some today!
I've never used Slipstic, although I've heard nothing but good things. For an alternative, check out this page: http://www.wolfbite.com/shaft-maintenance.htm, he seems to have some pretty good info.
I seen a local custom cue maker do this, to a friends cue.
He has a shaft spinner, so he cleaned the shaft with rubbing alcohol or whatever it was. and then took green scotch brite pad and ran it over the shaft for about 20seconds, then took a rag and some turtle wax, and went over the shaft with turtle wax, and DAMN it was smooth as hell.
Now thats going kinda over board, but it worked, and this was during the middle of the summer and the shaft stayed silky smooth for months.
I have also seen guys use that Q-silk and that seems to work very well too.
He has a shaft spinner, so he cleaned the shaft with rubbing alcohol or whatever it was. and then took green scotch brite pad and ran it over the shaft for about 20seconds, then took a rag and some turtle wax, and went over the shaft with turtle wax, and DAMN it was smooth as hell.
Now thats going kinda over board, but it worked, and this was during the middle of the summer and the shaft stayed silky smooth for months.
I have also seen guys use that Q-silk and that seems to work very well too.
I can't believe I still hear of people who recommend sanding a shaft as a means of regular maintenence. And for god's sake, if you just acquired a shaft and need to make it smooth, then sand it one time with nothing courser than 400 grit (and only if it is a mess), then finish with something like 1500-2000. After that, get rid of all sandpaper.
The most lasting and fastest way I know of to seal a shaft is tung oil. There are dozens of products, but if you chose one intended for gun stocks, it should work well. Be sure not to choose one that includes polyurethane or varnish or shellac. Choose pure tung oil.
Apply a very light coat of tung oil, wait till it dries completely--several hours or overnight. Buff it out till it gleams. This may take some elbow grease, but it is a one time deal and it's worth the effort.
The first few times you use the shaft it will feel a bit sticky because it will be so slick. Use talc for a couple of sessions and buff it after use. After that, the finish will last an extraordinarily long time. All you have to do to restore the slick surface is wipe it down with a damp cloth and burnish it. The grain will not raise from the damn cloth because of the tung oil.
One caveat, after many years, the tung oil will turn slightly yellow. But by that time most shafts without tung oil would have turned blue from imbedded chalk.
I don't know what other cue makers use tung oil, but I know first hand Southwest applies it to all new cue shafts.
The most lasting and fastest way I know of to seal a shaft is tung oil. There are dozens of products, but if you chose one intended for gun stocks, it should work well. Be sure not to choose one that includes polyurethane or varnish or shellac. Choose pure tung oil.
Apply a very light coat of tung oil, wait till it dries completely--several hours or overnight. Buff it out till it gleams. This may take some elbow grease, but it is a one time deal and it's worth the effort.
The first few times you use the shaft it will feel a bit sticky because it will be so slick. Use talc for a couple of sessions and buff it after use. After that, the finish will last an extraordinarily long time. All you have to do to restore the slick surface is wipe it down with a damp cloth and burnish it. The grain will not raise from the damn cloth because of the tung oil.
One caveat, after many years, the tung oil will turn slightly yellow. But by that time most shafts without tung oil would have turned blue from imbedded chalk.
I don't know what other cue makers use tung oil, but I know first hand Southwest applies it to all new cue shafts.
I let em turn blue, but I obsess about the ferrule. I HATE dirty ferrules. I do use a white business card (non ink side) and burnish the shaft before every use. Mine are blue, but slick as skeeters peter....
on the same subject, I got a Lucasi with the new Radial shaft, and they put something on the shaft that seals,or whatever, but it feels sticky sometimes when my hands sweat.....I'm gonna sand it off, the cue is on the rack because of it.
G.
on the same subject, I got a Lucasi with the new Radial shaft, and they put something on the shaft that seals,or whatever, but it feels sticky sometimes when my hands sweat.....I'm gonna sand it off, the cue is on the rack because of it.
G.
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Cornerman said:
Yes, if you don't sand in this case, the tung oil won't penetrate the wood. This would be one other instance where you might use 400 grit. Clean it up with 400 to open the cells, smooth it with 1500-2000, then apply the tung oil.
i too use the magic eraser and follow it up with some 2000 grit sandpaper. Someone said try using a certain type of alcohol on the eraser instead of water, the reasoning being the alcohol would not cause the wood grain to rise like water does.......i cant remember the kind of alcohol, i remember looking for it in walmart and cvs and they didnt sell it, so it will prob have to come from a paint store. try a search or maybe someone remembers