Sniper Install ?

nympfisher

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ok,, i remember reading on a post about shaping sniper tips, looked for an hour and couldnt find it,, the one with the link to the lathe and router method.

i have installed quite a few layered tips (moori,super pro,herc,tigers) and used tip shaper on lathe with very little problems after weting.none have delaminated. they looked nice on the tip also.

sniper is another story, wet and shaped , peeled a layer.
there is still alot of tip left.
is the router the only method that works ?
i trimed the sides with a irwin no problem but on radius it looks very fuzzy.

thanks, carl
 
dave sutton said:
are you saying you can't cut and shape a sniper in the traditional way. I do them just like the rest. Razor blade
I was just posting the link for him we do it the old fashion way also. You do need to wet the sides of the tip and make sure you are using a new blade.
 
Those two videos are scary.:eek:
I'll stick to razor blade ( tape half the blade and grip the tape ) and sponge.
 
All I've done is wet the tip, and use a fresh razor. Cuts like butter for me. Not saying that's what the problem is, but I don't overly soak the tip, just enough to slighlty wet the edges. Actually what Joey mentioned about using a sponge, what I do would probably be equivilent to applying light pressure with a well squeezed sponge- damp enough to darken the leather, but not heavily soaked in or anything like that.

I never use It on mooris or some of the others though, a good razor is all I usually need. I only used It on snipers the first time because I was forewarned. It worked well, so that's what I do with those. Before that I had used the trick on some of the softer tips with porus fibres that like to rip or tear.

Blades can get dull pretty quickly when cutting leather, and when that happens they will start to pull and rip at tips even with a damp tip, especially some softer or more porus type tips. That can cause layers to pull loose rather easily. I just buy those packs of 100 that come in the plastic dispencers. I hang them on the pegboard, and for cutting the sides I pop of a fresh one quite often, but usually use the old ones for the radius, because they don't grab as hard, and not as much risk of them snagging. With the sniper however, I use a fresh blade on the radius too, although My handling of the blade is very precise, so that It doesn't snag, but It also cuts smoother as a result. I guess what I'm saying is that sometimes I tend to get lazy with the preasure I use, but with these I am very carefull working them to shape a little at a time. If it starts to dry out, or a cut through the wet layer, then I just wipe a wet finger or paper towel with a drop or 2 of water accross the radius, and keep shaping.

I don't install many of these tips like some of the other tips, but so far I haven't had any problems. I have heard stories though, so I don't know if It's the way I installed them, or If I have just been lucky and was working with a good tip. I haven't heard anything negative about consistency issues with them, just that the problems can usually be illiminated by wetting them, and so far that's worked for me. The sides of snipers hold up as well or better then most I have seen. They require few to no retrims. They suprise me how well they hold their shape.

Greg
 
nympfisher said:
ok,, i remember reading on a post about shaping sniper tips, looked for an hour and couldnt find it,, the one with the link to the lathe and router method.

i have installed quite a few layered tips (moori,super pro,herc,tigers) and used tip shaper on lathe with very little problems after weting.none have delaminated. they looked nice on the tip also.

sniper is another story, wet and shaped , peeled a layer.
there is still alot of tip left.
is the router the only method that works ?
i trimed the sides with a irwin no problem but on radius it looks very fuzzy.

thanks, carl

I never cut snipers...I hand sand them dry or with a shaper on the lathe. I never wet them. No problems.
 
Cutting Sniper tips with the tool post and then using the Porper tip shaper has worked for me for years. Although I've installed a few hundred of them, I can't remember ever having trouble using this method. Quick and efficient.

Gene
 
With a fresh blade, and a cupped center in the tailstock up against the tip, I trim the sides without ever wetting them. The snipers cut very nicely, and out of the many boxes of them i've installed, I've never had one fail. I guarantee tips to never come off or delam, so I would hear about it if they did!
 
Sheldon said:
With a fresh blade, and a cupped center in the tailstock up against the tip, I trim the sides without ever wetting them. The snipers cut very nicely, and out of the many boxes of them i've installed, I've never had one fail. I guarantee tips to never come off or delam, so I would hear about it if they did!

I wet the p*ss out of them but only because Tiger says to. I don't know if it helps or not. I don't wet any other tips as some tips use a water soluble glue. I know that Talisman does. I once did a tournament and just before closing up and loading my trailer I replenished my drawer that holds all of my commonly used tips. I never emptied my small bucket of water that I use for re-wraps. When I loaded the booth into the trailer some of the water splashed out of the bucket and a very little bit got into the top drawer of my cabinet that the work top is attached to. 45 of the Talismans fell apart.


I also guarantee my tips, for the life of the tip, against de-lamination's or coming off the shaft as I do with all my work, other than ivory ferrules. It's a good policy that causes little extra work but will create a great following.

Dick
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
I have always used the Porper Tip Shaping Tool at: http://www.porper.com/index.cfm/fus...8911612aa-393BCF89-20ED-7D0A-C01E90D88F940CDD and never had a problem with any kind of tip, including Sniper Tips.

Good Cuemaking,
3 TAPS. Exact same tool I use and it's paid for itself by not chopping up tips.

Bigjohn said:
WHY ??? ..... because it works !
I thought you might elaborate on why you take some much time and effort when there are easier and more efficient ways of doing the same job. I say more efficient because, I wonder if by subjecting the tip to so much heat, is the tip composition being compromised. I can see there being little or no problem with single layered tips, but laminated tips are subject to delamination due to the heat absorbed by the glue.

No harm meant. Just curious.

Gene
 
the sides are not a problem for me. same as usual except wet the first. it does cut down of the fuzzing.
the tip is where i had the problem. there is a lot of material to remove to get a dime radius,so sanding would be very slow. the tip shaper i use(the hightower one) works fine on moori tigers and the super pros. the sniper is different ,seems softer and almost flakyand strange color. but i am also new at this so it's probably my inexperince.
i just noted that there were special instructions for only this tip and my regular method just didnt look that good . had a layer peel off using tip shaper and the same result using razor.

but i will keep trying , want to see how they compare to other tips.. dont like the moori med , and the moori slow is too soft

. thanks , carl
 
nympfisher said:
the sides are not a problem for me. same as usual except wet the first. it does cut down of the fuzzing.
the tip is where i had the problem. there is a lot of material to remove to get a dime radius,so sanding would be very slow. the tip shaper i use(the hightower one) works fine on moori tigers and the super pros. the sniper is different ,seems softer and almost flakyand strange color. but i am also new at this so it's probably my inexperince.
i just noted that there were special instructions for only this tip and my regular method just didnt look that good . had a layer peel off using tip shaper and the same result using razor.

but i will keep trying , want to see how they compare to other tips.. dont like the moori med , and the moori slow is too soft

. thanks , carl
The symptoms you speak of seem to be the ones I experience when my tool is dulling. You might also try taking smaller passes if you aren't already.

Gene
 
Cuedog said:
3 TAPS. Exact same tool I use and it's paid for itself by not chopping up tips.


I thought you might elaborate on why you take some much time and effort when there are easier and more efficient ways of doing the same job. I say more efficient because, I wonder if by subjecting the tip to so much heat, is the tip composition being compromised. I can see there being little or no problem with single layered tips, but laminated tips are subject to delamination due to the heat absorbed by the glue.

No harm meant. Just curious.

Gene

That's just the way I like to do it... by hand... been doin it this way for years and never had a tip fail yet. I have ruined a few snipers cutting on them though.
 
I use a razor blade and trim from center to side, no moisture at this time. Sides of tips are trimmed using a Willard?s Tipper-Trimmer, which is what I started with before I got a Deluxe Cue Smith. That allows me to get 2 shafts ready without tying up my lathe. Back to the shaping part, razor blade laying flat on a tool mounted in quick-change tool post and shape. Burnishing, I use a thin board with a finger tip of spit (lathe turning) and using a little pressure work the board and spit in and out as needed. Tips will take a shine, even triangle tips.
 
nympfisher said:
the sides are not a problem for me. same as usual except wet the first. it does cut down of the fuzzing.
the tip is where i had the problem. there is a lot of material to remove to get a dime radius,so sanding would be very slow. the tip shaper i use(the hightower one) works fine on moori tigers and the super pros. the sniper is different ,seems softer and almost flakyand strange color. but i am also new at this so it's probably my inexperince.
i just noted that there were special instructions for only this tip and my regular method just didnt look that good . had a layer peel off using tip shaper and the same result using razor.

but i will keep trying , want to see how they compare to other tips.. dont like the moori med , and the moori slow is too soft

. thanks , carl
like gene said your tool is dull. i have the hightower tip shaper but i dont use it anymore. the advantage of using the razor blade it they are always sharp. you use it 4 or 5 times and toss it. you can get 100 pack for like 12-14$. must be the rigid type for utility knives
 
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