so i’ve decided to make cues

soyale

Well-known member
i’ve posted in this sub-forum a few times over the years, and for the MOST part have encountered friendly, helpful craftsmen that love what they do….

…. and a few gatekeeping assholes.

i’ve decided i’m going to make cues. eventually. i’ve been horsing around with what i have, which isnt much, and have had a tremendous amount of fun. i really love this stuff.

i’ve posted some of my exploits over on the Main Forum, and have decided to repost them here as a journal of sorts. i’m going to continue to post comments as i tackle new projects and learn.

hopefully this is welcome here. feel free to chime in if you like. just dont tell me i need a $2,000 lathe because that’s just not in the cards right now.

thank you all
 
i have a few tools but dont have the space or money for the lathe shop of my dreams. Right now im working on converting a drill for spinning shafts.

The rosewood came in with an 18 pin flat faced phenolic joint at 19oz on the nose with a 3.9oz shaft, with an 18” balance point. This was part of why i decided to experiment with it. The cue i had been using for 15 years had a steel joint with a 14 pin, with closer to a 20” balance point (forward weighted).

when i sent the PTO shaft back, i actually had a kielwood made for her cue by AZBs own @GBCues. It plays! I also had him plug and tap the rosewood for an extension bumper. Good, affordable work. Recommend.

David gave me a 5 week lead time so i used the keil/rosewood combo in the meantime:
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Results of the experiment: I did not like the rear weight. I did not like the rear balance. The kielwood shoots straight as an arrow but juiced the rock significantly less than my ob1+.

i decided to fiddle. i took every drill bit extension in my house and hodge podged them together. after pulling the weight bolt i used a spade bit and slowly started turning by hand to get a feel for the wood. rosewood is hard. once i had the bit set i slowly spun it on the drill about half the length of the weight bolt and then tapped threads in my new hole. I put the weight bolt back in, and measured the balance point. Unchanged. i had removed enough material to lighten up the weight but what i moved forward was not enough to offset the loss in terms of balance.

I did this back and forth for a day or so, scared to go too far. by the the time the cue hit my desired 19” balance point i had basically hollowed out half of the cue. I settled on 18.4oz, figuring half an oz wont matter much and that the change would be good for me in terms of my experimentation.

I loved it. The kielwood already resonates so nicely but when attached to a hollow piece of rosewood it rang like a bell.

You can kind of hear it in this video:



but there is no way to show yall the feeling. i am a fan of haptic feedback, and dislike stiff unresponsive cf. this felt like the opposite of that, yet insanely low squirt.

fast forward five weeks and my cue butt arrives. now i need to get the kiel to fit. some azb searches and discussions with friends led me to believe i could do it. as the rosewood used an 18 pin, i was able to use standard hardware; a bolt in the insert and two jam nuts up against it. i crumpled up foil to use as a heat shield. i used the schmelke maple shaft as practice, first, but did it to both.

I layed out the shaft and propped up my torch. couple minutes and it spun right out:
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i happened to have a 5/16-14 schmelke insert with a 7/16-14 install thread that i bought at the same time as the rosewood. i retapped the threads to clean them and then spun the insert right in. i decided to forgo the epoxy until the insert twists itself out… but it aint goin anywhere anytime soon.

the kielwood was more difficult. everything came out fine. I made a much bigger diameter on my aluminum foil heat shield this time.

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this is where things get REALLY dumb. I only had a 7/16-20 install thread self aligning insert on hand.

heres a photo of what i had next to what came out of the kiel:
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For the sake of experimenting, i decided to file and tap the insert to a fully threaded 7/16-14. I smashed the ever-loving hell out of the insert in the process. I took an old extension bumper and filed two sides flat so I could put it in my bench vice. I put a pin in the bumper and the insert on the pin.

Once secured, with a moderate amount of unsavory language and time, i was able to transform the insert into a usable one

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Some sanding and polishing and smashing got the insert back to where it looked good enough for me.

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plays like an absolute dream. the weight, balance, hit, and deflection are ALL the best of any cue i’ve ever held (which truthfully is not many), let alone a cue i own.

however now my beautiful rosewood had no shaft…. So im currently in the process of swapping the pin from a flat faced 5/16-18 to a piloted 5/16-14.

getting the pin out was easy. as per some of azbs instruction i used modeling clay to fashion a sleeve for the joint collar and then stuck it in the freezer, as well as a tshirt for good measure. Once cold, i slipped the clay over the collar and wrapped the cold shirt around the forearm and repeated my process, and it twisted right out with a pair of channel locks. I checked the collar afterward and it felt maybe slightly warmer than if left in a hot car. retapped the threads (with a 5/16-14 pin that i dremel’d cuts into to make a tap) to clean them and my new pin screws right in. epoxy recommendations are welcome.

now the scary part. best i had to pilot the hole was a bench vise and a drill press stand. not a drill press. a stand that you put a drill in. I used a 29/64ths bit and spent a good hour making adjustments until i had it as center as possible. i failed to deliver a perfectly center hole, but i intend to clean it up by hand. thats the last straw for that stand, though. ive been checking FB marketplace for a drill press.

as it sits currently:
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anyway. that’s what i’ve been up to.
 
i’ve posted in this sub-forum a few times over the years, and for the MOST part have encountered friendly, helpful craftsmen that love what they do….

…. and a few gatekeeping assholes.

i’ve decided i’m going to make cues. eventually. i’ve been horsing around with what i have, which isnt much, and have had a tremendous amount of fun. i really love this stuff.

i’ve posted some of my exploits over on the Main Forum, and have decided to repost them here as a journal of sorts. i’m going to continue to post comments as i tackle new projects and learn.

hopefully this is welcome here. feel free to chime in if you like. just dont tell me i need a $2,000 lathe because that’s just not in the cards right now.

thank you all
I can't say much as I've not made a cue yet. I'm getting into it. It takes a lot of money for equipment and materials.

I have a MidAmerican Professional ($1599) and while it's a great machine, if I knew more or really anything when starting out I would have saved up another $1000 for the Cuesmith Deluxe.

The reason being, the Cuesmith has a much more direct route for being able to do everything. You can get taper bars, live threading systems and such.

When I purchased mine I didn't know Sh##. The MidAmerican is definitely a very capable machine but I feel the upgrade path is a bit more limited. For example, I don't ever foresee being able to do live threading on my lathe.

Now again, if I knew anything, I think you could potentially get into the hobby much more cheaply but I knew zero about lathes other than they turn stuff. I didn't know a head stock from a tail stock. Research into lathes and machining in general would be really useful for you (and me) right now. Also don't discount going back through the Ask A Cuemaker old posts. I've worked about 200 pages in the old ones, going oldest to newest. There's a lot of stuff that doesn't relate to anything important, but there's also a ton of hidden gems in the topics. Lots of broken pictures and external links, but with archive.org you can sort of piece together some stuff.

Here is a good series about lathe work in general, it's metal work. She does a really good job of explaining stuff without treating her audience like idiots. Cuemaker's guild on youtube has some great videos about actually making cues on desktop and full size lathes. Everyone has different methods and they show different methods for doing similar tasks. It's a real gem of a channel for guys not able to shadow a cuemaker near them.

From one beginner to another, good luck in your journey! I'm looking forward to see what you make. :)
 
I can't say much as I've not made a cue yet. I'm getting into it. It takes a lot of money for equipment and materials.

I have a MidAmerican Professional ($1599) and while it's a great machine, if I knew more or really anything when starting out I would have saved up another $1000 for the Cuesmith Deluxe.

The reason being, the Cuesmith has a much more direct route for being able to do everything. You can get taper bars, live threading systems and such.

When I purchased mine I didn't know Sh##. The MidAmerican is definitely a very capable machine but I feel the upgrade path is a bit more limited. For example, I don't ever foresee being able to do live threading on my lathe.

Now again, if I knew anything, I think you could potentially get into the hobby much more cheaply but I knew zero about lathes other than they turn stuff. I didn't know a head stock from a tail stock. Research into lathes and machining in general would be really useful for you (and me) right now. Also don't discount going back through the Ask A Cuemaker old posts. I've worked about 200 pages in the old ones, going oldest to newest. There's a lot of stuff that doesn't relate to anything important, but there's also a ton of hidden gems in the topics. Lots of broken pictures and external links, but with archive.org you can sort of piece together some stuff.

Here is a good series about lathe work in general, it's metal work. She does a really good job of explaining stuff without treating her audience like idiots. Cuemaker's guild on youtube has some great videos about actually making cues on desktop and full size lathes. Everyone has different methods and they show different methods for doing similar tasks. It's a real gem of a channel for guys not able to shadow a cuemaker near them.

From one beginner to another, good luck in your journey! I'm looking forward to see what you make. :)
Mid america and cuesmith are both taig based lathes so alot of stuff might be interchangeable
 
i’ve posted in this sub-forum a few times over the years, and for the MOST part have encountered friendly, helpful craftsmen that love what they do….

…. and a few gatekeeping assholes.

i’ve decided i’m going to make cues. eventually. i’ve been horsing around with what i have, which isnt much, and have had a tremendous amount of fun. i really love this stuff.

i’ve posted some of my exploits over on the Main Forum, and have decided to repost them here as a journal of sorts. i’m going to continue to post comments as i tackle new projects and learn.

hopefully this is welcome here. feel free to chime in if you like. just dont tell me i need a $2,000 lathe because that’s just not in the cards right now.

thank you all

To get the proper spindle bore and dimensions to build a cue, you need a $4000 lathe.

There's no shortcut to quality.

Without this lathe, you will have an obviously homemade product. If you are happy with this, then rock on🤘
 
Balabushka and Rich, and I am sure many others, used wood lathes. I have at least several old cues with marks on the ends from wood lathes. Proper snooker cues are made by planing, not on a lathe.

There is always more than one way to skin a cat. And sometimes older or more basic ways just take more patience. You can pay for the equipment with money, or you can pay for the work with your time. There are those that say you can't even do a tip right without a lathe, but many of us have done it for a lot of years. It's brutal on your fingers in my experience, and takes a bit of time, but certainly very doable.

Assembling a cue from parts is not the same as scratch making the cue from the wood planks or squares. Someone used to sell kits, I don't remember who. Cornhusker? You can still buy parts and blanks and cues in various stages of completion. Anyway, many of us have had adventures changing a pin or something like that.

I think it's cool to see the post and pictures. Don't be afraid to show it's not exactly concentric. Who cares? He loved the cue. Best he ever played with. What could be better than that?

Hey, the man used a torch on the cue. That takes some guts to get past. Having the money to buy a lathe has not been a problem for me, having the guts to dive in is where I am stuck.

Some may cringe at this post. So what? Why worry about it.
 
just dont tell me i need a $2,000 lathe because that’s just not in the cards right now.


To get the proper spindle bore and dimensions to build a cue, you need a $4000 lathe.

There's no shortcut to quality.

Without this lathe, you will have an obviously homemade product. If you are happy with this, then rock on🤘

thanks for the words of encouragement! looking forward to making subpar bullshit.
 
thanks for the words of encouragement! looking forward to making subpar bullshit.
I know a couple of boys who use to be in New Hampshire, who built all thier Cues between ceners and used the Steady rest.
They're Cues were not only accepted world wide, they earned awards at Cue shows from them

NO BIG SPINDLE BORE
One of the two lathes not even long eneogh for a Cue Butt.
No taper bars either yet very consistant tapers.
 
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To get the proper spindle bore and dimensions to build a cue, you need a $4000 lathe.

There's no shortcut to quality.

Without this lathe, you will have an obviously homemade product. If you are happy with this, then rock on🤘
I see that you make pool cue parts. Ive actually checked out your website before looking for parts. I didnt find what i needed, and i made it myself, and it worked great.

Maybe i’ll look into making stuff like that, myself, as well. probably be cheaper for folks to get it in america.
 
Todd Schultz
I can't say much as I've not made a cue yet. I'm getting into it. It takes a lot of money for equipment and materials.

I have a MidAmerican Professional ($1599) and while it's a great machine, if I knew more or really anything when starting out I would have saved up another $1000 for the Cuesmith Deluxe.

The reason being, the Cuesmith has a much more direct route for being able to do everything. You can get taper bars, live threading systems and such.

When I purchased mine I didn't know Sh##. The MidAmerican is definitely a very capable machine but I feel the upgrade path is a bit more limited. For example, I don't ever foresee being able to do live threading on my lathe.

Now again, if I knew anything, I think you could potentially get into the hobby much more cheaply but I knew zero about lathes other than they turn stuff. I didn't know a head stock from a tail stock. Research into lathes and machining in general would be really useful for you (and me) right now. Also don't discount going back through the Ask A Cuemaker old posts. I've worked about 200 pages in the old ones, going oldest to newest. There's a lot of stuff that doesn't relate to anything important, but there's also a ton of hidden gems in the topics. Lots of broken pictures and external links, but with archive.org you can sort of piece together some stuff.

Here is a good series about lathe work in general, it's metal work. She does a really good job of explaining stuff without treating her audience like idiots. Cuemaker's guild on youtube has some great videos about actually making cues on desktop and full size lathes. Everyone has different methods and they show different methods for doing similar tasks. It's a real gem of a channel for guys not able to shadow a cuemaker near them.

From one beginner to another, good luck in your journey! I'm looking forward to see what you make

I can't say much as I've not made a cue yet. I'm getting into it. It takes a lot of money for equipment and materials.

I have a MidAmerican Professional ($1599) and while it's a great machine, if I knew more or really anything when starting out I would have saved up another $1000 for the Cuesmith Deluxe.

The reason being, the Cuesmith has a much more direct route for being able to do everything. You can get taper bars, live threading systems and such.

. . . . . . .
Todd Schultz, the originator of Mid-America Cues always said it was not a cue building lathe. But someone with some engineering skills could convert it, easily.
 
I see that you make pool cue parts. Ive actually checked out your website before looking for parts. I didnt find what i needed, and i made it myself, and it worked great.

Maybe i’ll look into making stuff like that, myself, as well. probably be cheaper for folks to get it in america.

His name says Cuesupply.com which is fake and does not exist.


You may have accidentally gone to cuemakersupply.com which sels parts and is now making the Mid-America lathe.
 
I built my first cues on a wood lathe without a center steady. Drilling and boring was done with the cue being fed using the tailstock and a centering jig, which in some regards is a great way to do it--the rotation, vibration and flex of the cue are eliminated. Points were cut using a hand fed router sled.

They weren't perfect, but for a 19 year old kid who had never even met another cuemaker, I was happy. I still pull out the first cue with points I ever made... Plays fine nigh thirty years on.
 
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heres my drathe (drill lathe)

The electrical tape on the socket on the hose clamp for the variable speed control i am especially proud of 🧑‍🌾

more to come soon. I put spacers inside the drill to true it up a bit, and it helped. im in the middle of experimenting with stabilizing the chuck a little more. Got some machine bolts and a hose clamp. We’ll see i guess. I found another drill i own with a more stable chuck but no reverse, might try strapping that one down too.

my trigger stopped working today unless fully depressed so i need to fiddle with the wires some more i suppose.

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going to put some threads in my workbench so i can bolt the drathe down.

heres a spin:


i also cut two house cues in half and have a 30” butt and 30” shaft to experiment on. Gonna put the shorty leftovers together for a cue for my newphew. maybe ill try mix and matching some rings for fun.

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I got some wicked tearout from using a jigsaw but whatever thats what the extra inch is for.
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i have two more like it but this was the prettiest and straightest combo. Shaft weighs 4.7 rn 🤣

i finally started getting my tools hung up and put in their homes today. Huge step. The tv and stereo are ready but haven’t been used yet. I ran the scroll saw for the first time to cut some mdf for a clamp holding board and boy oh boy do i love that thing!
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thats a silver maple branch in the background. ive been putting my dog to work on debarking it.

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thanks for all the positivity everyone. I’ll try to reply to each of you individually when i have more time.
 
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more to come soon, im the middle with experimenting with stabilizing the chuck a little more.

my trigger stopped working today unless fully depressed so i need to fiddle with the wires some more i suppose.

going to put some threads in my workbench so i can bolt the drathe down.

heres a spin:

I'd imagine you could get a pillow bearing and a collet and it would steady it up well without breaking the bank. I'd be very wary of using that with the shaft unsupported at all. I mean, it works, but all it takes is one mistake to damage threads. I'm not poo-pooing your effort, just be really careful!

With the collet and pillow bearing it would be very capable of doing tips. Sharpshooter has some setups that are drill based but I don't entirely care for them. They use something like skateboard wheels and you must wrap the shaft with about 1/16" of tape where they set or it will damage a shaft. They work well with this one caveat. They come with some vinyl tubing but in use it slides off and exposes the shaft to the wheels. They scuff/scratch the shaft and will actually dent the wood in a ring. Not good. But 1/16" of low stick painter tape protects the shaft.

Just tossing some ideas out there. Good progress! :)
 
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