Some tips can soak enough glue

Vahmurka

Vahmurka

...and I get all da rolls
Silver Member
... to pop off, unless installed properly.
Here is a good visual example of a tip with a full layer soaked up glue. I had to make three applications of CA!
soaked.jpg

It's good to keep in mind that it's important to apply some CA to the glue side of the tip until soaking stops. Thus you are sure the tip won't fall off because there was too little glue between the tip and the ferrule (even though you applied enough).
 
There are better ways to stop wicking than just keep adding more CA until it stops taking it. IMHO...I personally use the drop, wipe, wait and accelerate method. It has been working good for me.

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk 2
 
If a tip soaks a couple drops, I will wipe one more and quickly hit it with accelerator and then light sand. I had a couple "soft" tips just keep soaking, half the tip was rock hard. And burnishing the tip to as was suggested earlier will help to.
 
hi,

I have been using gel for 10 years and don't understand or have experience with the "soaking" due to the viscosity of the gel.

Try some Locktite Superglue Gel and I think you won't have to worry about soaking or using accelerator or whatever.

Rick
 
From Bob Dzuricky
dzcues said:
The first 45 seconds of this video shows a simple way to apply the CA to the back of your tip. You don't have to completely saturate the leather...all you have to do is seal it to prevent further wicking action when installing the tip on the ferrule.
Click to expand...
 
I tried several glue brands, yes Loctite being the best, hands down, but at a price three times higher than competition available locally, that's not that I'd use - provided other brand doesn't fail. That said, there is a nice CA gel here which I was using but recently I like thin CA which I apply with a special brush. This way it is guaranteed to prevent leakage or spill. It is convenient to treat the tip's back too.

Various tips soak glue differently, and I intentionally avoided mentioning a certain brand or brands. Soft ones usually get more than hard. But it also differs from tip to tip, sometimes there are hard that behave like soft in terms of glue absorbation.

Since I don't use CA gel recently I was never thinking to use it for tip pre-ground. Actually I've had zero problems with thin CA, and the tip pictured is the first time ever I saw a full layer absorbing gluem which made me share. But on a second thought over a post by scdiveteam I think I might return to CA gel to prepare the tip's glue side.
 
Vahmurka said:
I tried several glue brands, yes Loctite being the best, hands down, but at a price three times higher than competition available locally, that's not that I'd use - provided other brand doesn't fail. That said, there is a nice CA gel here which I was using but recently I like thin CA which I apply with a special brush. This way it is guaranteed to prevent leakage or spill. It is convenient to treat the tip's back too.

Various tips soak glue differently, and I intentionally avoided mentioning a certain brand or brands. Soft ones usually get more than hard. But it also differs from tip to tip, sometimes there are hard that behave like soft in terms of glue absorbation.

Since I don't use CA gel recently I was never thinking to use it for tip pre-ground. Actually I've had zero problems with thin CA, and the tip pictured is the first time ever I saw a full layer absorbing gluem which made me share. But on a second thought over a post by scdiveteam I think I might return to CA gel to prepare the tip's glue side.
Click to expand...

So can you not get the accelerator or are you just not wanting to try it? I mean if you like the thin CA then the kicker is a good way to keep using it.

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk 2
 
I suggest going back to the gel. I have soaked tips overnight in thin super glue and cut them apart to see how deep it penetrated and the glue had soaked all the way through the tip.
 
People often complain about the price of the better glues to be using. But the price difference between the cheapest glue and one of the better ones, becomes less than that of a failed tip over the estimated shelf life of the glue.
The tip soaking glue, is most likely the reason that one brand has added plastic to the base of their product line.
 
I see that I forgot to mention in my first post that I don't use thin super glue anymore. I've used Loctite Gel for several years now and I wouldn't change, never have had a problem with it gluing tips.
 
I am piggybacking onto this post because my question is related.

I recently purchased a shaft that has an ivory ferrule with a Moori Medium tip. I was a bit surprised that there was no fiber pad. This particular cuemaker typically uses a fiber pad, but will make whatever the customer requests. The tip shows a very thin layer with a slightly different color at the base, similar to the color that Vahmurka showed in the initial post of this thread. My guess is that this layer is glue that soaked into the tip during installation.

In one of the earlier posts, Tony (Russell Cues) said that soaked layers became rock hard. Are there any opinions if this hardened layer of leather would serve to protect the ferrule in a similar manner to a fiber pad? Is there any likelihood that CA soaked tip material will mushroom?

Probably the wise move would be to replace the tip and install a fiber pad. But it is such a good tip. Learning more about your experiences will be appreciated.

Greg
 
scdiveteam said:
hi,

I have been using gel for 10 years and don't understand or have experience with the "soaking" due to the viscosity of the gel.

Try some Locktite Superglue Gel and I think you won't have to worry about soaking or using accelerator or whatever.

Rick
Click to expand...


YEP! even the old 454 had a high viscosity, never had any trouble with it even on the really soft tips. Its what i replaced my first tip with when i was a kid, my uncle said since he used it on the helicopters he worked on it should be good enough for a tip. Many moon later this has consistently proved true.
I'm still waiting for a tip i installed on my own or others to come off.
-GG
 
Sealegs50 said:
I am piggybacking onto this post because my question is related.

I recently purchased a shaft that has an ivory ferrule with a Moori Medium tip. I was a bit surprised that there was no fiber pad. This particular cuemaker typically uses a fiber pad, but will make whatever the customer requests. The tip shows a very thin layer with a slightly different color at the base, similar to the color that Vahmurka showed in the initial post of this thread. My guess is that this layer is glue that soaked into the tip during installation.

In one of the earlier posts, Tony (Russell Cues) said that soaked layers became rock hard. Are there any opinions if this hardened layer of leather would serve to protect the ferrule in a similar manner to a fiber pad? Is there any likelihood that CA soaked tip material will mushroom?

Probably the wise move would be to replace the tip and install a fiber pad. But it is such a good tip. Learning more about your experiences will be appreciated.

Greg
Click to expand...

IMHO the hard, soaked section will not mushroom. But only your experience will tell. Factors such as "Do you break with this shaft?" and "How hard do you normally hit?" will help determine the outcome.
Go ahead and play with it and see what happens. If it mushrooms, then it can be trimmed down or a new tip put on.
No one can predict the future.
My 2 cents,
Gary
 
Moori tips really soak up the glue. I would not be surprised to see a discolored layer next to the ferrule. I would not cut the tip off for a replacement either.

Just my 2 cents,
Alan

Phelps Custom Cues
 
Alan and Gary,

Thanks for the responses. As I think about the concern, I am a bit too nervous to continue using it. I cannot be sure how much of the integrity of the glue soaked layer is assisted by the ferrule. Tip replacement is a lot cheaper than replacing an ivory ferrule. The attached picture should have been enclosed previously.

Too bad there was no fiber pad installed originally. It was my first Moori Medium. I can see why people liked them.

Greg
 

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Sealegs50,
first I suggest you keep an eye on the tip (and double check with fingers too) to see if it starts to mushroom. If it does ask a cuemaster/installer to trim it and keep playing.
If it does npt mushroom at all, keep playing too ;)
Both until your current tip reaches side height of THREE layers. Usually two is an indicator of a time to replace the tip, but in your case I wouldn't risk with an ivory ferrule. Having the pad is essential in this case.

P.S. the "glued" layer you are talking about looks pretty thin to me. So my advice above.
Also it looks like Moori III generation, which were better tip than it is now. I understand you don't want to scrap it.
 
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