spalted birds eye maple
- Thread starter jeprox
- Start date
Not that my suggestion trumps his, but strength in numbers and all that. Impregnation/stabilization is necessary. I would also suggest kiln drying if that hasn't already happened.
spalted bem
thanks for the reply.
as far as i know, it is already dried to 8%. so next step is stabilization. would diy type using CA or wood juice suffice or it needs to be professionally stabilized? the latter is a bit costly aside from shipping.
i apologize for added questions. just wanted to know if it is pocket friendly and feasible.
thanks again for input.
thanks for the reply.
as far as i know, it is already dried to 8%. so next step is stabilization. would diy type using CA or wood juice suffice or it needs to be professionally stabilized? the latter is a bit costly aside from shipping.
i apologize for added questions. just wanted to know if it is pocket friendly and feasible.
thanks again for input.
Penny wise, pound foolish, you get what you pay for.
What Paul is saying is that the extra cost of doing it right far outweighs the savings of doing it wrong.
A simple search suggests it might cost you 50-60 bucks shipped both ways. For something you want to last at least 50 years, that means very little.
I guess for nothing more than the sake of asking but,
why would you even consider using a pc of wood in a cue that isn't capable of standing on it's own (sans stabilizing)?
I've seen some of this 'stabilizing/impregnating' of wood and it's grotesque, totally unnatural in appearance.
'Spalted' is wood that is well on it's way to decomposition, it's pulpy and rotten. And you want to use this in a cue???
Let's consider resonance.
Good, sound Maple by itself is a pretty good tone wood. I wonder what the resonance of plastic resin is?
One of the first rules in cue-making is that if you have any doubt whatsoever in a pc of wood for a cue-build, DON'T USE IT.
why would you even consider using a pc of wood in a cue that isn't capable of standing on it's own (sans stabilizing)?
I've seen some of this 'stabilizing/impregnating' of wood and it's grotesque, totally unnatural in appearance.
'Spalted' is wood that is well on it's way to decomposition, it's pulpy and rotten. And you want to use this in a cue???
Let's consider resonance.
Good, sound Maple by itself is a pretty good tone wood. I wonder what the resonance of plastic resin is?
One of the first rules in cue-making is that if you have any doubt whatsoever in a pc of wood for a cue-build, DON'T USE IT.
That goes out the window often these days.
My biggest fear on those reaaaaally soft woods is, they ding easily.
And as handles, the muffle the feel too much. Even if cored with heavy woods.
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I don't mind using stabilized woods, so long as they are solid and still look like wood. Stabilized wood doesn't have any less tonal quality than burl or heavy figured birdseye maple, and it can be cored with high tone woods to enhance it's characteristics. I do it. Core wood doesn't have to be maple or purpleheart. Those get used mostly because they're cheap and stable & strong, and there's nothing wrong with it. But I have no issue with cutting up some nice straight grained rosewoods & such to core with. The end result is what matters, not the means by which it was obtained. Point being, if a guy is going to use stabilized wood or burls or whatever, it doesn't mean the cue HAS TO be tonally dead. It can still be a great playing & feeling cue.