Speed Control-Underrated!

Nostroke

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think speed control may be the most underrated part of the game of pool- especially 9 ball. Now that I'm concentrating a little more on it, the rewards have been big. Sometimes on a multirail shot I really dont know where the CB is going but if the speed is fairly accurate, I ve almost always got a decent shot. The same thing on kicks-10% better speed and often a 100% better result. Im starting to like this game again.

For NY'rs- I dont know exactly what it is about those 2 front tables at ABC-maybe its the balls, the lights but everything seems crystal clear there. When i miss i know i stroked it bad.
 
i've always said to play your best game you must master speed control. it to me is the most important aspect of all cue sports.
 
Definitely. One of the things I always have to work and concentrate on is speed control. When I'm playing a match and I'm paying close attention to speed, I play maybe a full balls better than if I don't. It keeps you in line, keeps you out of trouble, and can make most layouts a Cosmo (be it 14.1, 9-ball, 8-ball, one pocket).


skins said:
i've always said to play your best game you must master speed control. it to me is the most important aspect of all cue sports.
 
I've always believed that once a player reaches a certain level, it's speed control (or lack of it) that makes the difference between a good player, or a champion. I also believe that speed control is probably the toughest element in billiards that needs to be learned. For example, it's pretty easy just based on experience to learn where the CB will make contact with the first rail after it leaves the the OB, but it's very difficult to determine and control just how far it will roll afterwards. That for one, is the main reason we're always told to play lines that run into, or parallel to your line of shot. Coming up short or long doesn't end in disaster. The worlds best players almost always know where their CB will make a first rail contact, but even the best can't stop the CB on a dime every time. If you watch videos of world class players, you'll notice that most of the game ending mistakes involve some form of the CB going long or coming up short resulting in loss of a shot, or getting on the wrong side of a ball.
dave
 
"Speed Control" = position. You can shoot a great shot & have planned a perfect route for the Cue Ball, but if the speed is OFF.... You are out of position. Even an inch can make a difference, in some cases (i.e. side pockets)
 
It's hard enough to develop the touch to have even decent speed control and then you start adding different degrees of english (side, top, or bottom) to the cb and watch it die or accellerate like crazy as it leaves the rail. But... that's why they call it pool!
 
I too feel this is very important. I decided to go with a lighter stick because I feel it gives me more speed control. I was shooting with a 20 oz, and now have dropped down to 18.75 oz. I read somewhere that if you go lighter it will improve your speed control and a heavier stick will increase your shot making/accuracy. But, what do I know..:rolleyes:
 
Nostroke said:
I think speed control may be the most underrated part of the game of pool- especially 9 ball. Now that I'm concentrating a little more on it, the rewards have been big. Sometimes on a multirail shot I really dont know where the CB is going but if the speed is fairly accurate, I ve almost always got a decent shot. The same thing on kicks-10% better speed and often a 100% better result. Im starting to like this game again.

For NY'rs- I dont know exactly what it is about those 2 front tables at ABC-maybe its the balls, the lights but everything seems crystal clear there. When i miss i know i stroked it bad.


Nostroke, you're absolutely right about speed-control. A lot of players pay less attention to it than they should however, especially in 9-ball, there are position-routes that are less sensitive to speed-control errors. It's what many people refer to "crossing" an angle as opposed to "entering" one. There are many times players will use their approach to attain what is necessary. In other words, if your goal is to get straight on your next shot, entering the angle is the ideal approach. If your goal is to get anything BUT straight, crossing the angle might be a great option since falling straight would be improbable.


Not that it doesn't come up in the other games. It's just that the emphasis often changes in them. Straight Pool is primarily a pattern game, as is 8-ball. 1-pocket is a tactical game based more on exchange than it is about running-out. I will note, good straight pool players will often take advantage of their position route decisions whenever a stop-shot pattern is not available.
 
Nostroke,
Pros and road players when they play on extremely tough and nasty tables they control the speed to pocket the balls and they call it ``pocket speed``.One needs to bring their `pocket speed ``skill when they play on Diamond and Murray tables.next time I meet you I will show u the Long rail and two rail banks with `pocket speed` if u are interested.
 
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Nostroke said:
I think speed control may be the most underrated part of the game of pool- especially 9 ball. Now that I'm concentrating a little more on it, the rewards have been big. Sometimes on a multirail shot I really dont know where the CB is going but if the speed is fairly accurate, I ve almost always got a decent shot. The same thing on kicks-10% better speed and often a 100% better result. Im starting to like this game again.

For NY'rs- I dont know exactly what it is about those 2 front tables at ABC-maybe its the balls, the lights but everything seems crystal clear there. When i miss i know i stroked it bad.

Dave...Were you there for the speed control clinic that I did at DCC a couple of weeks ago. The method I taught shows you how to gain control over any table, and any playing conditions, very quickly! Several people mentioned that it has already made a difference in their games!

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
I many times see other players shoot a shot, then watch where the cue ball goes after the shot...

The cue ball frequently goes in a direction, that if they has shot with more speed, they would have had an easy shot on their next ball. Or if they had shot with less speed, they would have had an easy shot on their next ball.

So if you can "see" where the cue ball will go after a shot, and you can shoot with the correct speed, then the cue ball will many times stop in a good spot for your next shot.

Of course you need to think about these things *before* shooting your shot!

"Where will the cue ball go after this shot?"
 
Scott Lee said:
Dave...Were you there for the speed control clinic that I did at DCC a couple of weeks ago. The method I taught shows you how to gain control over any table, and any playing conditions, very quickly! Several people mentioned that it has already made a difference in their games!

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Nope Scott- Sorry i missed it. I am just now concentrating on it more as many shots my stroke needed to be firm in order to hit the OB correctly. Now it seem something has happened where i can make that same ball with less speed and still have the correct english. Draw is another matter. Soft draw from more than 2 feet away is not in my weak arsenal as of yet.
 
I think spede control is the most improtant and hardest part of getting to the next level. It is not that hard to get the CB to go in the direction it is suppossed to to get position on the next ball. Stopping it where it needs to stop is another story, and is very frustrating. I find it especially difficult with draw. I have nor trouble drawing the ball, but getting it to stop where I want it to consistently is very difficult.

What do you guys feel are the best drills to improve this?
 
mantis99 said:
...Stopping it where it needs to stop is another story, and is very frustrating. I find it especially difficult with draw. I have nor trouble drawing the ball, but getting it to stop where I want it to consistently is very difficult.

What do you guys feel are the best drills to improve this?

With "draw", everything can change depending on cue, cue ball, cloth, and distance between cue ball and object ball!

Being able to draw the cue ball back a specific distance requires *consistent* equipment and months/years of practice.

The first thing is a consistent cue weight, brand of tip, hardness of tip, curve on tip, condition of tip, and chalk applied well to tip especially around sides of tip. And even a consistent "slickness" of shaft can help so shaft slides the same through your fingers the same each time (or wear a glove).

If you always play with the same cue, and that cue always has the same exact tip in good condition, and you always apply chalk well (especially sides of tip) before each shot, then learning to draw back a specific distance will be a WHOLE lot easier!

Basically the tip will *always* be gripping the cue ball the *same* each time, every time.

Look at your tip under the light after chalking. Are there dark spots on the tip? This is bad. I lightly scuff my tip with a sandpaper shaper after about every 8 hours of play. When I chalk, there is an even coat of chalk all around my tip. The entire surface of my tip is the same color. It is pretty! Sort of like brand new blue carpeting installed and all the same texture and color.

Next practice with the *same* table and cue ball. Old pitted dull looking cue balls do not draw well. A brand new shiny cue ball will draw the best. Slow dirty cloth does not draw well. New clean fast cloth will draw well. If you always practice on the same table, then you will more easily get the same results.

Next practice with the *same* distance between cue ball and object ball. I practice with the cue ball 1 diamond back from the object ball. When the cue ball is a further distance from the object ball, everything changes!

To demonstrate this, use a striped ball for your cue ball. Shoot just the striped ball to the end of the table. Shoot with draw. Notice the ball has a backwards roll at first, then slides, then begins a forward roll. Well if the object ball is down where the cue ball is sliding, you are not going to get any draw! You need to learn to shoot so the cue ball still has a backwards roll when it gets down there (to be able to get draw with that distance between balls).

Next get the Jim Rempe Training Ball. This has numbers on the ball. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. This will show you where on the cue ball you can hit to get more or less draw. This will show you how low you can hit on the ball. More toward center = less draw. Shooting lower down = more draw.

Next practice the following everyday for 2 months... Set up a row of balls between the side pockets or in that area. Place cue ball 1 diamond back. Shoot 1st ball into far corner pocket with draw. Try to draw the cue ball back 1 diamond. Shooting with more follow-through will give you more draw. Shoot level. Light grip. You don't need to "kill" the ball to get draw. You can shoot slow with a lot of follow through and get excellent draw.

Try shooting at "1" on the training ball. Then 2, 3, 4, and 5. You should notice you get more draw with 5, than with 1.

Try hitting the same spot on the ball, say 4. Follow through more, then follow through less. See what happens.

Try hitting same spot on cue ball with more speed, then less speed. See what happens.

Now just practice getting the cue ball to come back 1 diamond. Then 2 diamonds. Then 3, 4, etc. Last practice is to try and get maximum draw with every shot.

After practicing the above for several months, you will be able to draw back the cue ball a specific distance when the cue ball is 1 diamond back from the object ball on your "practice table".

Next practice the same thing on a different table. Try tables with fast cloth and slow cloth. Notice the difference. With time and practice, you will easily be able to adjust to different tables. Before playing on a different table, I always shoot a few draw shots to "get the speed of the table" in my mind.

Then next add distance between cue ball and object ball. Say practice with cue ball 2 diamonds away from object ball. Come back 1 daimond, 2, 3, etc.

Also try shooting that striped ball so it has a backwards roll all the way down to the end of the table. Not easy.

Picture of training ball...
http://www.fivestarbilliards.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=F&Product_Code=11-132
 
Nostroke said:
Nope Scott- Sorry i missed it. I am just now concentrating on it more as many shots my stroke needed to be firm in order to hit the OB correctly. Now it seem something has happened where i can make that same ball with less speed and still have the correct english. Draw is another matter. Soft draw from more than 2 feet away is not in my weak arsenal as of yet.

Check your PM's

Scott Lee
 
Different aspects of shooting are important in different situations. Sometimes, speed control is extremely important but angle is not. Sometimes angle is extremely important and speed control much less so. Sometimes pocketing accuracy. Sometimes patterns, stroke, etc.

I think that the best thing to do is to recognize the most important part of every shot. That makes the rest of the shot and layout simpler in comparison and easier to intuitively attain. Proper speed is very often the most important part of a shot and neglected too often by many good players who can't break through to great players. The game we play is much simpler than we usually believe. The key is recognize what level of control is enough and avoid trying to do too much.
 
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