Staining the forearm

Yugi

Registered
What brand of stain can you use on a maple forarm? I have tied different stains and I can not get the stain to penetrate the wood. The cue has been sanded down to bare wood but won’t take stain at all?
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Toners.
Aniline dyes.

serious carcinogen - potassium dichromate

supposedly safe - Potassium permanganate - but there are potential hazards.

What color are you trying to attain?

smt
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
What brand of stain can you use on a maple forarm? I have tied different stains and I can not get the stain to penetrate the wood. The cue has been sanded down to bare wood but won’t take stain at all?

If it is a production cue, the wood may have been treated in a way that wont let a stain penetrate.
 

Mase

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
You may be sanding it too smooth. You probably shouldn't sand any finer than 320.
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What i was trying to hint at first post is that if you are going to the big box store or local hardware and getting a pint of oil base stain off the shelf, your success rate on maple won't be high. Worse, despite what some may experience, it is not an ideal substance under most finish coats in terms of adhesion.

Toners will burn through many finishes. Especially if the part was sanded to bare wood on the surface. Might give a more interesting finish than expected with residual clear/sealer in the wood cells, might be worse. IOW, a traditional finishing approach is to seal "blotchy" wood with a spit coat of shellac mixed with a lot of alcohol. then scuff sand. Then stain. This highlights the grain without making the rest all muddy.

etc.

The problem is, finishing is a black art. You need a lot of experience, or you need to show examples of what you hope to attain & hope someone can respond with a formula.

smt
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
If the OP would respond with maybe pics or a description of what they are actually trying to do, or dealing with, like is it a production cue that you are re-finishing/re-staining, etc. that would go a long way to helping him.
Dave
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
if you used sealer on it ........ stain will never take .. or it will take blotchy........... I use transtint and mix it with denatured alcohol.......... soaks in well

Kim
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
if you used sealer on it ........ stain will never take .. or it will take blotchy........... I use transtint and mix it with denatured alcohol.......... soaks in well

Kim

Good points Kim.

I don't stain too often, when I do I use this procedure.

I always use kiln dried wood only. Always.

After 320 sanding, I like to use acetone on the surface.several times, then apply stain, then let completely dry, then seal with water thin 2 part epoxy and then apply my 3 adhesion coats before the clear coat.

Works very well with an even reveal and overall appearance with no fisheye after applying the clear coat. Sealing the substrate before the finish process is the key.

JMO,

Rick
 
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cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Home Depot carries some warer based stains that work fine. The regular oil based stains are not what you want for cues.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This thread reminds me of the guy who went to an Auto parts store and said to the counter person.
HEY, Do you know what I need?
And was serious!
Hey Yugi
Do you think everyone takes E. S. P. Pills?
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
If the OP would respond with maybe pics or a description of what they are actually trying to do, or dealing with, like is it a production cue that you are re-finishing/re-staining, etc. that would go a long way to helping him.
Dave

Well it's been 4 days with no response from the OP, many things have been presented, but without any further input from the OP, it's all a mute point. If your gonna post a question like this and give no real info, then why did you post to begin with?
Dave
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Stains

Sometimes even the "sanding to bare wood" can be a matter of opinion specially if you've never sanded Maple before. :) Now days complicated questions are coming from day one participants. Nothing wrong except it presents unique challenges. :) Take the following as an example:

Mario


NEED HELP FAST
I'm at a tournament fitting tips with my Mid-America lathe, and I can't undo the 3 Jaw Chuck and it's still got a customer's shaft in it!!! Any ideas?
 
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