I have a question, how do you get a steel joint tapered. If I misspelled tapered forgive me. LOL. I have installed tapered steel sleeves for joints but I was wondering how do you get the steel joints tapered like the ones on cues with small pins( 5/16-14, 5/16-18). It seems that you would have to have big equipment to do this. All I have is a striped down Taig based lathe. Any suggestions, I know practice makes perfect but do I need more equipment or do I need more equipment.
Steel Joints
- Thread starter seahorse1877
- Start date
You need a metal lathe... You'll want to eventually set up live tooling for threading too, and the metal lathe will do that quite nicely too.
They're a bit of a pain in the butt to do, even with a proper lathe. I try to make the pre-tapered ones work whenever I can.
They're a bit of a pain in the butt to do, even with a proper lathe. I try to make the pre-tapered ones work whenever I can.
"If I misspelled tapered forgive me."
You got the spelling of tapered correct.
'Striped' is the one you got wrong; stripped.
Unless of course your Taig actually does have stripes on it.
Sorry, but you brought it up. Either way, you're forgiven.
Anyway, you may have a problem tapering SS collars without a compound on your lathe. I mean, it can be done with a file if you have the patience.
Or....you can buy them pre-tapered but then you're stuck with the dimensions they give you. Maybe you have a different taper or joint diameter.
I'm not about to rehash the lathe wars. I'll just say that I don't have this problem. Think carbide tooling and a machine that will support it.
You got the spelling of tapered correct.
'Striped' is the one you got wrong; stripped.
Unless of course your Taig actually does have stripes on it.
Sorry, but you brought it up. Either way, you're forgiven.
Anyway, you may have a problem tapering SS collars without a compound on your lathe. I mean, it can be done with a file if you have the patience.
Or....you can buy them pre-tapered but then you're stuck with the dimensions they give you. Maybe you have a different taper or joint diameter.
I'm not about to rehash the lathe wars. I'll just say that I don't have this problem. Think carbide tooling and a machine that will support it.
If you want to cut the joint down before putting the pin in, then offset your tailstock, put a pointed live center right into the end of the joint that is installed on the cue, use a carbide tool bit, slow your lathe down and take really small passes. Run a sharp file accross the surface and clean up the surface with 220 and finer sandpaper until you get a mirror finish.
If you want to cut it after putting the joint on you will need a Taig compound cross slide to cut the taper.
If you want to cut it after putting the joint on you will need a Taig compound cross slide to cut the taper.
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Thanks for all of the input, sorry for " striped ". LOL
dave sutton
Banned
I cut SS joints right on my hightower deluxe. I can use a router or Chris mini boring bar. Small passes. Buy who ever said you "need" a metal lathe is not correct.
You don't "need" a high speed grinder mounted in a CNC mill either, but it should would be nice! :wink:
I pre-taper before they go on the cue. The sanding and polishing steps can generate a lot of heat and if you are not careful the epoxy can get too hot and fail. Much easier to do it ahead of time in the lathe. First step is to machine a reference bore in the collar then it can be screwed on the jig to be machined. I prefer to use a taper bar but the compound works fine as well.
dave sutton
Banned
I've known a few to do this but personally I like to taper on the cue to ensure perfection. Jerry R told me a long time ago to cool I'd with an ice cube in between sanding. Makes tr metal sand out faster and stops it from getting too hot while sanding.
Just goes to show you there are many ways to skin a cat. None more right then the other.
Just goes to show you there are many ways to skin a cat. None more right then the other.
Murray, that is a good point about the heat buildup from sanding and pre machining the taper.
Very sharp HSS tools work well on stainless, about 250 or so rpm.
You can only take light cuts otherwise too much heat will be created.
A small smear of castor oil (other vege oils work also casor is best),will aid in the cutting to give a really good finish along with a very steady feedrate.If the tool has a nose radius of about .010 inches, you want to feed at about 1/2 inch length per min to get a fine finish.
When polishing keep the rpm low and the paper sharp. If your fingers get warm, move to a newer piece of paper.
Very sharp HSS tools work well on stainless, about 250 or so rpm.
You can only take light cuts otherwise too much heat will be created.
A small smear of castor oil (other vege oils work also casor is best),will aid in the cutting to give a really good finish along with a very steady feedrate.If the tool has a nose radius of about .010 inches, you want to feed at about 1/2 inch length per min to get a fine finish.
When polishing keep the rpm low and the paper sharp. If your fingers get warm, move to a newer piece of paper.
Hi,
I don't use metal joints but I believe that Atlas sells SS collars and joints with a taper on them?
Rick G
I don't use metal joints but I believe that Atlas sells SS collars and joints with a taper on them?
Rick G
Tom will also cut them to match your own taper if you order enough of them.