Vorpal - I see you only have 17 posts. Are you new to this CTE discussion? It's been going on for 20 years or more. Experiments like yours don't seem to shed any light on the matter. I have an experiment for you as well:
Put the object ball in the center of the table. Put the cue ball one foot in front of a corner pocket so that you have a "corner to corner" shot. Attempt to shoot the object ball with follow so that the cue ball scratches into the opposite corner pocket, following the object ball in. Attempt this shot 10 times and report back how many times out of 10 you were successful.
What is the purpose of this experiment? Well, we have a shot in which a 10 year old can spot the aim point on the object ball (straight in). Any miss, therefore, is not due to incorrect aim, but to incorrect delivery of the cue (ie, a "bad" stroke). I say that you are likely to miss many of these shots unless you have a very straight stroke. Even if you make the ball but do not make the cue ball, that is sometimes enough stroke error to cause a miss on any given shot.
So the question is, if you are unable to deliver the cue in a straight line for a majority of the shots, then how can any aiming system allow you to pocket balls like a pro? Aiming systems do not matter if you can't send the cue ball exactly where you intend.
My contention is that you can learn to aim any shot on the table in a matter of weeks or months, while it takes many years, if ever, to hone a truly straight stroke. You aren't missing because you aimed wrong. You're missing because you can't hit the cue ball in the exact spot and direction intended.
Thoughts?
Hey Dan, I did your shots as a thought experiment and I made 11 of 'em. Have you given any thought to mine?
I don't claim to be an expert on CTE and I don't use visual sweeps with a 1/2 tip pivot that Stan teaches as his Pro One system. I use a full 1/2 ball pivot to dead center cue ball with a hip pivot.
I just had a pm exchange with another member and I'll cut out the text and give you MY, not Stan's, comprehension of how a pivoting system works for mere mortals like myself.
Snip:
Let's take a look at a straight in shot again and I'll tell you how I (just me, not Stan) think it works and how it's working for me. I'll still use the same visuals and terms that I think everyone finds standard.
By definition a 0-15 cut share the same visual that uses a quarter ball spot that's either called A or C depending whether it's a right or left cut. I'm going to use a right cut because it's easier for me to find the a key on the keyboard.

I also believe there's only one body position that defines that ball/table/pocket position. Your head and body has to be aligned 'just so' to obtain the 'visual'. I'll use the above as axioms and try to develop a proof. If you can't agree that those statements are correct then I guess we won't be able to reconcile our differences about CTE.
When you pivot from A, you get back to the same straight in shot you started with. If you don't, you have to work on your pivot twist amount, bridge length, etc. until you have the muscle memory ingrained. I guess I should have called that axiom three. This shows, when done correctly, that a 90* pivot is equal to a 15* cut.
As in my previous example use a marked cue ball with the mark placed at the extreme RIGHT edge for this try at explaining it. Tap the object ball for a 10-12 cut to the right. When you 'twist' or move down/up table to get the visual again, you'll see that the spot has moved from it's original perspective. It's 'added' an angle amount that's proportional to your table position or 'twist'. When done correctly this will add the proper amount of offset to the object ball to make the shot.
"It's only a tiny amount" you may be thinking now, but you must consider the distance between angles at the edge of the cue ball. The angles between 0 and 60* take up 3/4 of the cue ball. If you look at the values for the sine angles, you'll notice they rise much faster after passing 60*. Only 1/4 of the ball is used for 30* of cut angle. The difference between 90* and 75* is much less in distance from the edge towards the center than from the center of the cue ball to the 1/4 mark. (which marks a 15* cut)
Consider a 30 perspective where the pivot is away from the pocket. This will 'subtract' the correct amount of angles to put you on the shot line. The same mechanism is at work for the other visuals of the system. As you can see I believe the correct cut angle offset is obtained by your visual of the shot and the body position required to reach it.
End of Snip:
I may have only a few post relative to the rest of the members in this thread, but it doesn't mean I just fell off a turnip truck either. I was a 'nuke' electrician in the Navy almost too long ago to remember and those boys don't let you play with a reactor unless you have a good understanding of math and physics.
I've been playing for a good many years and after I found out about pivoting systems I went digging for more clues. I found a handy little pivot triangle that marks a spot on the cue ball you can use to shoot with first. As I dug deeper I found more. The info above is based on my tinkering with and trying to understand the pivot methods. Remember this is MY take on pivoting systems. For all I know, Poor Ol' Hal may be spinning like a top now.