Sticky cue shaft

Hey.....Elcorazon.....

Elcorazon....if you liked the results you got using 1500, then you should try 2000 or 2500 grit.....you'll be pleased with the smooth finish those papers produce.
After I sand, I then leather burnish the shaft and then use the Craftsmen Cue Wax I get from overseas........after a few coats of that wax.... Voila.


Everyone I've steered into using that cue wax has said it worked really well on their cue shafts but I hope you will consider trying the higher grit paper.......aside
from using leather as a shaft burnisher, you can also burnish your cue shafts using Croakus Cloth. It is also referred to as Jewelers Cloth and it's used to polish
gold jewelry so you know the grit is incredibly fine...... you sure do not want to sand off any gold when polishing/buffing gold jewelry.

Matt B.
 
Bavafongoul said:
Elcorazon....if you liked the results you got using 1500, then you should try 2000 or 2500 grit.....you'll be pleased with the smooth finish those papers produce.
After I sand, I then leather burnish the shaft and then use the Craftsmen Cue Wax I get from overseas........after a few coats of that wax.... Voila.


Everyone I've steered into using that cue wax has said it worked really well on their cue shafts but I hope you will consider trying the higher grit paper.......aside
from using leather as a shaft burnisher, you can also burnish your cue shafts using Croakus Cloth. It is also referred to as Jewelers Cloth and it's used to polish
gold jewelry so you know the grit is incredibly fine...... you sure do not want to sand off any gold when polishing/buffing gold jewelry.

Matt B.
Click to expand...

Thanks Matt.

I have used finer grit, but usually I go from 1500 to burnishing. I use a vegetable tanned leather that I salvaged from my first strop. I also have, in a pinch, used brown non-corrugated cardboard (like from a legal pad) to burnish--paper products are, in my estimation, about as abrasive as crocus cloth. I've spent time doing some jewelry making and knife making...crocus cloth is invaluable for final polish of both, as you say.

I don't like wax because I have very dry hands and feel less drag on a well polished bare maple shaft than anything else.
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
....I don't like wax because I have very dry hands and feel less drag on a well polished bare maple shaft than anything else.
Click to expand...

As mentioned use Renaissance wax... You will seal the shaft and there will be no drag... You can use it on all parts of the cue...Best wax you can use IMO....
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
Thanks Matt.

I have used finer grit, but usually I go from 1500 to burnishing. I use a vegetable tanned leather that I salvaged from my first strop. I also have, in a pinch, used brown non-corrugated cardboard (like from a legal pad) to burnish--paper products are, in my estimation, about as abrasive as crocus cloth. I've spent time doing some jewelry making and knife making...crocus cloth is invaluable for final polish of both, as you say.

I don't like wax because I have very dry hands and feel less drag on a well polished bare maple shaft than anything else.
Click to expand...

Another trick is to lightly go over the shaft with 600-800, then wax and very lightly burnish. You end up with more of a matte finish thats still sealed under wax, instead of waxing a 'polished' surface. Thats the only way I could ever play with a waxed shaft.
That said, my preference is raw wood (no wax) though, so thats how my cues are. Ive tried the wax thing, and came up with the matte finish to try and get used to it, but I still didnt like it enough to keep doing it.
 
Chuck Fields said:
Another trick is to lightly go over the shaft with 600-800, then wax and very lightly burnish. You end up with more of a matte finish thats still sealed under wax, instead of waxing a 'polished' surface. Thats the only way I could ever play with a waxed shaft.
That said, my preference is raw wood (no wax) though, so thats how my cues are. Ive tried the wax thing, and came up with the matte finish to try and get used to it, but I still didnt like it enough to keep doing it.
Click to expand...

Have you tried Renaissance wax? It's not like other waxes. I think you'd really like the results...
 
sebroy9 said:
He must be talking about extremely nonabrasive sand paper grit then. So I hope he doesn't sand off any wood.
Click to expand...

On a new shaft I sand the factory finish off right down to the wood with 220 paper. I leave on the 4 inches by the joint. I coat the shaft with sanding sealer and sand lightly with 220 and 600 and burnish.... wax it with carnuba wax...........


smooth as a baby's ass

LOL


Kim
 
skins said:
How do you think it works? It's a material made up of tiny "bits" loosely bonded that when used with water act like wet sand paper... It's similar to the sanding sponges used in the automotive finishing industry...
Click to expand...

I really don't think so. It cleans my shafts and they become good as new and removes only the chalk off. I make sure there is not a lot of water on it. It only removes chalk it does not remove wood.
 
If you want to DIY. Then take a tape and tape it around where u want the shaft to be without finish. Use a 600 grit sand paper and run through it, then use 1000, then 1500. It should be smooth then.. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
sebroy9 said:
Still doesn't remove the wood off my shaft.
Click to expand...

It DOES remove some wood just like very fine sand paper BUT when used with water, effectively wet sanding which removes less will also, as stated, raise the grain of the wood which will have to be leveled back down for optimum finishing. I use it all the time for cleaning ferrules and similar less porous materials and have used it on shafts as well but the result left additional steps of finishing to get it right.

If the best you've experienced are results after using a magic eraser then you haven't experienced a well finished shaft. That's ok though, for you. If you like it good, but it's not the best advise to give others looking for the best finish on a shaft.

One thing I haven't tried yet which I will now, is using some iso alcohol with magic eraser... I wonder how that material will will react. My hope is that it won't raise the grain as much? Maybe?...Anyone ever try this?
 
Skins -
Try and get your hands on denatured alcohol, sometimes referred to as camp stove fuel. The Isopropyl alcohol you would be using will be part water (sometimes up to 30-40%) The denatured alcohol will evaporate almost instantly off of the shaft. I have taken extremely dirty shafts and made them look almost new with the magic eraser/alcohol combo, and you get very little if any grain raising. Usually the wood just feels 'dry' (for lack of a better word) and 2 or 3 strokes with a piece of leather and its smooth.
 
JasBy said:
Skins -
Try and get your hands on denatured alcohol, sometimes referred to as camp stove fuel. The Isopropyl alcohol you would be using will be part water (sometimes up to 30-40%) The denatured alcohol will evaporate almost instantly off of the shaft. I have taken extremely dirty shafts and made them look almost new with the magic eraser/alcohol combo, and you get very little if any grain raising. Usually the wood just feels 'dry' (for lack of a better word) and 2 or 3 strokes with a piece of leather and its smooth.
Click to expand...

That's great advise. Thanks. I use 90% iso but if denatured has less water than that would be the way to go... I'll try that with magic e., a bit of Renaissance wax, then burnish and see how that works... I'm confident I will get good results as long as the magic e. doesn't melt from the alcohol..lol :)
 
JasBy said:
Skins -
Try and get your hands on denatured alcohol, sometimes referred to as camp stove fuel. The Isopropyl alcohol you would be using will be part water (sometimes up to 30-40%) The denatured alcohol will evaporate almost instantly off of the shaft. I have taken extremely dirty shafts and made them look almost new with the magic eraser/alcohol combo, and you get very little if any grain raising. Usually the wood just feels 'dry' (for lack of a better word) and 2 or 3 strokes with a piece of leather and its smooth.
Click to expand...

Denatured alcohol is a horrible, horrible idea. Denatured alcohol is known to dissolve glues and several types of plastics and finishes.
 
skins said:
It DOES remove some wood just like very fine sand paper BUT when used with water, effectively wet sanding which removes less will also, as stated, raise the grain of the wood which will have to be leveled back down for optimum finishing. I use it all the time for cleaning ferrules and similar less porous materials and have used it on shafts as well but the result left additional steps of finishing to get it right.

If the best you've experienced are results after using a magic eraser then you haven't experienced a well finished shaft. That's ok though, for you. If you like it good, but it's not the best advise to give others looking for the best finish on a shaft.

One thing I haven't tried yet which I will now, is using some iso alcohol with magic eraser... I wonder how that material will will react. My hope is that it won't raise the grain as much? Maybe?...Anyone ever try this?
Click to expand...


Oh well, I use a glove now so the shaft is always consistent for me. I never noticed any wood being removed when I used a magic eraser, all it looked like was the blue chalk coming off and the shaft still looked like it had the original protective coating on.
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
Denatured alcohol is a horrible, horrible idea. Denatured alcohol is known to dissolve glues and several types of plastics and finishes.
Click to expand...

Yes, it will dissolve certain glues - if you soak your ferrule in it for 20 minutes or so you run the risk of loosening the ferrule. The only finish it is known to dissolve is shellac, in which it is an essential ingredient. It should have no effect on any modern finish, as it is just 90-95% ethanol with methanol mixed in to make it undrinkable, along with trace amounts of bad smells and tastes to further discourage irresponsible use. It is safe to store in many plastics, including nalgene if you need to, for camping.
 
I have been using a magic eraser for about 2 years now. I use water but very sparingly.

I have cleaned over 25 different cues of mine and friends of mine. the only time the grain was raised was on a predator of mine. It never raised again after the 1st time though.

Kinda strange that the predator is the only one .
 
Predator is a laminated shaft, not unlike plywood, so not all the wood layers are in the same direction.

lorider said:
I have been using a magic eraser for about 2 years now. I use water but very sparingly.

I have cleaned over 25 different cues of mine and friends of mine. the only time the grain was raised was on a predator of mine. It never raised again after the 1st time though.

Kinda strange that the predator is the only one .
Click to expand...
 
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