is there a way i can have a cue made with the joint size .850 and end butt diameter 1.20 with a straight taper?
Is the only done with a compound taper?
Thanks
Is the only done with a compound taper?
Thanks
straight taper in smaller butts
- Thread starter mrinsatiable
- Start date
The simple answer is yes.
I prefer .840 to .850 at the joint and 1.250 at the butt end, but it would be no problem to adjust to your specs. For a given cue, it would tend to shift the balance forward. However, this could be adjusted with the choice of a heavier wood for the handle or a (heavier) weight bolt.
I prefer .840 to .850 at the joint and 1.250 at the butt end, but it would be no problem to adjust to your specs. For a given cue, it would tend to shift the balance forward. However, this could be adjusted with the choice of a heavier wood for the handle or a (heavier) weight bolt.
That is exactly what this cue is. As mentioned the back end in ebony so the shift change in weight was not dramatic and the cue has a balance point of 19" and 19oz.
too small
i'm worried that the cue will be too skinny with a straight taper.
Someone told me that it wouldn't hit as well as if it was compound taper. just trying to confirm this suspicion.
i'm worried that the cue will be too skinny with a straight taper.
Someone told me that it wouldn't hit as well as if it was compound taper. just trying to confirm this suspicion.
What do you consider a STRAIGHT TAPER?...JER
Why would you want it to have a straight taper?
With dual or compound taper, the handle will be slimmer while the forearm at the bottom is fatter.
The cue maker (A) whom I want to build the cue..now has informed me that his style of cue building is straight taper. He is a top 10 cuemaker.
Which means there is only one cut in the taper not a compound taper. His measurements are usually .850 at the joint and 1.27 at the butt.
I'm currently playing with cue (B) that has .850 at the joint and 1.20 at the butt. I'm not sure if my current cue has compound taper. but would like a cue made from cue maker (A)
I'm afraid that the "A" joint will be too skinny and may not play "stiff" the way I like. Unfortunately i have small hands so i'm more comfortable with a slimmer butt cue. I can no longer get a cue from cuemaker (B) which is why i've choosen to go with cuemaker (A)
Which means there is only one cut in the taper not a compound taper. His measurements are usually .850 at the joint and 1.27 at the butt.
I'm currently playing with cue (B) that has .850 at the joint and 1.20 at the butt. I'm not sure if my current cue has compound taper. but would like a cue made from cue maker (A)
I'm afraid that the "A" joint will be too skinny and may not play "stiff" the way I like. Unfortunately i have small hands so i'm more comfortable with a slimmer butt cue. I can no longer get a cue from cuemaker (B) which is why i've choosen to go with cuemaker (A)
dave sutton
Banned
ive made a few cues with my normal taper .850 to 1.270ish but after i taper the cue i recut only the buttsleeve 1.225 straight into the handle area. then i go back and cut the wrap groove straight into the taper of the wrap to make up the difference. most cues can have this done with a refinish and rewrap (maybe not with inlays) so even if the maker wont tdo it for a small amount you can have it done. makes the cue a tough sell tho