By pulling down on the shaft it is applying pressure and tightening the grain on the high side and stretching the low side. Even though the hook is smooth it will leave compression marks the length of the shaft. however they will come out with a shaft recondition. The trick is to roll the shaft and find where exactly the pressure should be applied. its not hard just look at the light under the cue and find the highest point. make sure that that side stays up as you pull it to the rail and then apply pressure strait down as you pull and push the tool. work a little at a time untill your familiar with the tool. Shafts with S curves are much more difficult but with some patiants you can make them playable again
Arching a cue shaft opposite an existing arch is a technique as old as warped shafts themselves. We all know it helps and why.
Doing some damage to the shaft at the same time is indeed a new idea for many of us. It is also completely Unnecessary.
I believe a small concave wheel that rolls down the shaft (Derlin might work well) would eliminate the friction and thus do no flattening or marring. This would also eliminate the need to sand the shaft down afterward. So that if it was in good condition otherwise it would still be ready to use.
It is a new approach to an old fix but in it's current form leaves much room for improvements in my opinion.
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