Straightening a shaft?

ElCorazonFrio said:
I criticized you for saying that wood can't be straightened. It can. It isn't easy and it takes time and/or heat and a proper amount of applied stress...which is why I mentioned creep.

It likely isn't worth it on a new shaft, but as was said in an early post, if you have a special shaft, it can be done and may be worth it.

But you can read whatever you want.
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That is all correct - but - it won't stay straight.

How many shafts have you made again?

Dale(who could tell some stories)
 
I straightened a Predator shaft that had a significant warp. I laid it on a flat surface with the warp facing up, put a weight on it and left it that way for two months. That simple process took the warp out.

About a year later I sold it to a close friend after telling him the history. It's now been at least two years that he's had it and still no warp.
 
warp

I have one of Brandon Jacoby's straightening tools also. It works. I straightened several shafts. They have stayed straight for 3 years. In my OPINION penetrating epoxy does not destroy a shaft ' s hit - it enhances it. Try it - it will probably work. Better yet - try the Jacoby tool and then your epoxy. You won't be out anything.
 
Nuts4Tascarellas said:
I have one of Brandon Jacoby's straightening tools also. It works. I straightened several shafts. They have stayed straight for 3 years. In my OPINION penetrating epoxy does not destroy a shaft ' s hit - it enhances it. Try it - it will probably work. Better yet - try the Jacoby tool and then your epoxy. You won't be out anything.
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What penetrating epoxy works on hard maple ?
 
oil

I have been training in Okinawan Karate for 34 years. The way that we keep our wooden weapons from splintering, cracking, and breaking is to soak them in boiled linseed oil. It soaks in fairly deep - especially in the end grain. It will dry to the consistency of a sealer/finish. It has a remarkable effect on ash. More noticeably in the ash - it makes the wood pliable and you are able to flex and manipulate the wood to become straight if it is bent. This is on pieces that are 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 around. It also hardens the wood. We use it on oak, purpleheart, ipe, ash, any type of wood. I have heard of cuemakers dipping parts in a similar fashion as Nelsonite.
 
Nuts4Tascarellas said:
I have been training in Okinawan Karate for 34 years. The way that we keep our wooden weapons from splintering, cracking, and breaking is to soak them in boiled linseed oil. It soaks in fairly deep - especially in the end grain. It will dry to the consistency of a sealer/finish. It has a remarkable effect on ash. More noticeably in the ash - it makes the wood pliable and you are able to flex and manipulate the wood to become straight if it is bent. This is on pieces that are 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 around. It also hardens the wood. We use it on oak, purpleheart, ipe, ash, any type of wood. I have heard of cuemakers dipping parts in a similar fashion as Nelsonite.
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Linseed oil actually promotes moisture absorption.
Linseed oil is not penetrating epoxy .
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
That's a penetrating epoxy used on soft/rotted wood. It's the nastiest smelling epoxy I've come across . Some people use that as sealer before the last pass. Nasty stuff.
Nelsonite is another nasty sealer. Not epoxy . Might actually not a bad idea to dip the ends of wood on nelsonite before facing . Dipping the whole shaft 1MM away from final pass might not be a bad idea as it penetrates that deep. But, it is a nasty stuff. Toxic and cancerous.
 
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