Stretch ... Tour Edition vs 860

Crash

Pool Hall Owner
Silver Member
I'm getting ready to cover an 8 ft Valley using Ridgebacks, 3M10, and Championship Tour Edition. I have a feel for the stretch of Simonis 860. What difference in stretch can I expect with the Championship Tour Edition?

While I have your attention ... the current cover does not have a hospital fold at the side pockets and is one of the reasons I'm trying Ridgebacks as I don't like the "Snooker Curve" at the side pockets. Is this typical of other Valley cover jobs or unique to my tables?
 
I'm getting ready to cover an 8 ft Valley using Ridgebacks, 3M10, and Championship Tour Edition. I have a feel for the stretch of Simonis 860. What difference in stretch can I expect with the Championship Tour Edition?

While I have your attention ... the current cover does not have a hospital fold at the side pockets and is one of the reasons I'm trying Ridgebacks as I don't like the "Snooker Curve" at the side pockets. Is this typical of other Valley cover jobs or unique to my tables?


Take your feel for 860 and about triple it for Tour Ed.

As for the snooker rounds on the old valley. It is just what some mechanics do when doing the side pockets on bar rails. If you ask me, it is not the right way of doing it for the reasons you already stated. I am not sure why some do it that way.
 
... the current cover does not have a hospital fold at the side pockets and is one of the reasons I'm trying Ridgebacks as I don't like the "Snooker Curve" at the side pockets. Is this typical of other Valley cover jobs or unique to my tables?

Some people that recover coin-op tables use a fold on the sides - some don't. Stock Valley tables didn't have folds - unless somethings changed recently after the company was sold. Part of why they get so rounded is the facings get worn with age rather then getting replaced and/or the cloth gets stretched too tightly which compresses the point.

Here's the Valley method of slate and rail recovering FYI -
http://www.valley-dynamoparts.com/docs/RECOVERINSTRUCTIONS.pdf
 
The man thats been covering these tables for many years covers the cushions according to the instructions. He also uses spray adhesive on top of the slate about 2 inches in from the edge. He claims that its off the playing surface so it shouldn't matter, but the buildup of adhesive over the years has shots rolling off the rails. Adhesive has got to be removed next recover and I said so after some discussion.

I'm going to do an 8 footer and a 7 footer using a hospital fold and the glue method I've learned here. I think my customers will see the difference. If so all tables will be done that way.
 
I had great success with the Tour Edition and 3M10 on the 8 foot Valley ... much faster play with the stretch. I was off by 3/4 inch on estimating the stretch so it is tight! (shoulda listened to Glen). And with the Ridgebacks its turning into a good table. Now to shim the cross beams to get it flat.

As for the Ridgebacks on the 7-footer: During our Cities APA 8-Ball finals the word was out that "Table number 1 rails are lively!". No one really noticed the folds in the side pockets.
 
I had great success with the Tour Edition and 3M10 on the 8 foot Valley ... much faster play with the stretch. I was off by 3/4 inch on estimating the stretch so it is tight! (shoulda listened to Glen). And with the Ridgebacks its turning into a good table. Now to shim the cross beams to get it flat.

As for the Ridgebacks on the 7-footer: During our Cities APA 8-Ball finals the word was out that "Table number 1 rails are lively!". No one really noticed the folds in the side pockets.

Good job Crash:D
 
Thanks Glen ... Who'da thunk 3 years ago an interest in pool tables would turn into a business? I love it! I'm always checking level, cloth and rail condition. BTW, a set of Ridgebacks is going on the other 12 tables next recover.:thumbup:
 
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