Stripped weight bolt head
- Thread starter Ed Keeney
- Start date
Howdy;
if it's a hex-head try wetting the tip of the hex-wrench and dipping it in some scouring powder
like Comet, Ajax or Bar Keeper's friend. Apply steadily increasing pressure. Can also be used for
Philips style and for straight slot screws I recommend a hollow ground tip instead of the regular
double ground (typical), style. Hollow ground fill the slot giving better torque to the screw.
hank
if it's a hex-head try wetting the tip of the hex-wrench and dipping it in some scouring powder
like Comet, Ajax or Bar Keeper's friend. Apply steadily increasing pressure. Can also be used for
Philips style and for straight slot screws I recommend a hollow ground tip instead of the regular
double ground (typical), style. Hollow ground fill the slot giving better torque to the screw.
hank
Pocket Change
Active member
Try an "Easy-Out", used to be a brand name but they are available in most tool sections...Harbor Freight?. They are left-hand threaded with usually a spiral thread, you drill a pilot hole and screw it into the hole you just drilled in the screw, bolt, etc. 'lefty'. Most have a square head.
https://www.amazon.com/easy-out/s?k=easy+out
https://www.amazon.com/easy-out/s?k=easy+out
I've had great luck using square bits (for Robertson screws) to remove stripped Phillips, hex head, and Torx. It's actually the only thing I use those bits forCan anyone suggest a way to remove a weight bolt that has a stripped head.
PissedoffEd
Thank you Dan. Ed
Thanks 23
EdThanks Pocket. Ed
Iwishiwasrich
Active member
What type of bolt head is it? Allen,torx?
Allen
If it proves difficult to remove (i.e., glued) then drilling out on a lathe is called for.
Alphadog has a point. I don't know how deep you are having to reach to get to that weight bolt head but a soldering iron might be your friend. It will take a while but thoroughly heating the whole weight bolt would be my first move if I have anything at all to grip.
If you don't have a way to drill a perfectly straight hole I would stay away from drilling a hole. I have taken out many a fastener broken off in metal. The customer usually breaks off a hard steel easyout in the hole before they bring it to me. Again, heat is the first move. Next move is a reverse rotation drill bit and drill. This loosens the connection between fastener and base material while providing some vibration. Sometimes this loosens things all by itself. If using an easyout remember that they are very hard, and usually very brittle. A crooked hole or not applying pressure evenly will often snap one.
An impact driver might work a little magic and they are cheap. Then I would look around for off the wall alternatives. The next size up star bit might hammer into that hole. What about the tools for removing the "one way" screws encountered on some jobs.
Unless you have a shop full of stuff and experience it struck me as I was typing, if there is a good cue smith around it might be best and cheapest to let him get the weight bolt out.
Haven't seen the material mentioned. Weight bolts are usually steel, stainless steel, or brass. Sometimes when somebody just wants to add a little weight right where they want it aluminum could be used. What that bolt is made of matters and might help to know.
My dad was magic removing damaged fasteners. I have to admit I never had his patience. I am much more of a get a hammer guy. If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer. If a bigger hammer doesn't work, get a torch! Not the best advice working on a pool cue.(grin)
Hu
If you don't have a way to drill a perfectly straight hole I would stay away from drilling a hole. I have taken out many a fastener broken off in metal. The customer usually breaks off a hard steel easyout in the hole before they bring it to me. Again, heat is the first move. Next move is a reverse rotation drill bit and drill. This loosens the connection between fastener and base material while providing some vibration. Sometimes this loosens things all by itself. If using an easyout remember that they are very hard, and usually very brittle. A crooked hole or not applying pressure evenly will often snap one.
An impact driver might work a little magic and they are cheap. Then I would look around for off the wall alternatives. The next size up star bit might hammer into that hole. What about the tools for removing the "one way" screws encountered on some jobs.
Unless you have a shop full of stuff and experience it struck me as I was typing, if there is a good cue smith around it might be best and cheapest to let him get the weight bolt out.
Haven't seen the material mentioned. Weight bolts are usually steel, stainless steel, or brass. Sometimes when somebody just wants to add a little weight right where they want it aluminum could be used. What that bolt is made of matters and might help to know.
My dad was magic removing damaged fasteners. I have to admit I never had his patience. I am much more of a get a hammer guy. If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer. If a bigger hammer doesn't work, get a torch! Not the best advice working on a pool cue.(grin)
Hu
That’s the set I have. Not sure if they’ll fit in a deep socket to get into a counterbore. I suppose I’ll check in the morning.
You might consider using a Cue maker for this job.Can anyone suggest a way to remove a weight bolt that has a stripped head.
PissedoffEd
If its an imperial sized allen try metric allen sockets first. If its metric try imperial. Also, some valve grinding compound will give the allen socket some bite to remove it, works on phillips head too.
BE CAREFUL WHEN DRILLING THE BOLT....Can anyone suggest a way to remove a weight bolt that has a stripped head.
PissedoffEd
WHEN U START DRILLING, WILL GET HOT PRETTY FAST-
DAMAGE THE BUTT CAP AND MORE-POSSIBLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
