super draw stroke

5ballcharlie

5ballcharlie

GHOSTBUSTER
Silver Member
Anyone got any ideas on how to achieve a super draw stroke. I can draw the cue ball full length of the table. So lets say 9 plus feet but sometimes you need a little more. The draw stroke that when you hit it it stops the jerks back very fast with force. I shoot 50 full length draw shots a day and can draw them all the way back but it seems like they limp back BUT they get back nonetheless.
 
First and foremost, make sure you are accelerating through the cue ball and that your cue is quite level. Stay down on your shot!

Second, try shortening your bridge a little to see whether it helps. I have found that, over the years, this helps in some cases.

Third, see whether you can hit the cue ball a little lower without miscuing. If you can, this may help, too.

Good luck.
 
Danny Basavich says you will never need more than six feet when drawing...


Here are some tips that help me -

Level cue
Accelerate and follow through
No need to hit hard. More stroke and less speed = more draw
Putting some extra wrist into it makes a big difference. Try it out
 
CaptiveBred said:
Level cue
Accelerate and follow through
No need to hit hard. More stroke and less speed = more draw
Putting some extra wrist into it makes a big difference. Try it out
Click to expand...

Beside the aforesaid, you need to have a medium tip, not hard. This will grip the ball and spin it better. Also avoid a very stiff shaft. It also depends on the table cloths and ball needs to be clean to have the good spin effect. Placed your tip of the cue as near as possible to the cueball before your strike the ball ~ aprox 2-3mm apart. It will be more accurate that way. Level your cue meaning the butt as low as possible and the tip of the cue as low as possible. If you are using green chalk it should leave a green stain on the table colth. Thats how low im talking about.
;)
 
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What do you mean by drawing the full lenght of the table? Is the space between the OB and CB 9 ft and then you are drawing the CB back 9 ft?
 
And of course, follow through. Stroke, don't poke. I've found that most my draw/follow woes comes from too-short of a follow through.
 
TheBook said:
What do you mean by drawing the full lenght of the table? Is the space between the OB and CB 9 ft and then you are drawing the CB back 9 ft?
Click to expand...

Its possible if you do it diagonally. But I dont see the point of doing it.

I ever experienced having to jack up my cue to play a draw shot when the cueball was at one rail(one tip spacing between rail and CB) and the eight ball on the other end aprox 8.5 feet away. Draw the cue ball all the way back to the place where im shooting from to place for the nine. It sound impossible but it did happen.

CueTable Help

 
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ive found your bridge makes a big difference too. Try tucking your ring finger under your hand, it automatically makes your bridge hands a tip lower...........for super low tuck your middle finger under and rest the tip of your index finger directly on the cloth.........this is superdraw but your on the edge of miscue, but it allows for a super level low stroke
 
icem3n said:
Its possible if you do it diagonally. But I dont see the point of doing it.

I ever experienced having to jack up my cue to play a draw shot when the cueball was at one rail(one tip spacing between rail and CB) and the eight ball on the other end aprox 8.5 feet away. Draw the cue ball all the way back to the place where im shooting from to place for the nine. It sound impossible but it did happen.
Click to expand...
Sounds tough... rather, impossible. I can see it if the ball caromed off into the rail and came back :p

In any case, there is rarely a situation that follow can't fix, just takes another rail usually. Someone once told me, "Draw for show, follow for dough." Not to say that draw doesn't have it's place, cause, lets face it, it comes in handy more than I can say, but I don't see the need to draw it back more than a few feet at most.
 
That was in my younger days, trying to show off.. :p

Not to mentioned that i was using a cue where most people
describe it as "crap-cue" to execute the shot...--> Earl Strickland black and white version cuetec

CueTable Help

 
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Draw Stroke

Awhile back DoomCue and I got into this big physics discussion about drawing/ stroking power. This may be a good thread for you to look at. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of the thread now, but if I recall correctly DoomCue ends up showing that velocity is very important (if not the most important variable) in placing spin on the cue ball, and so I would respectfully disagree with the poster that suggested that speed/velocity was not important.

Further, I have found that I get MUCH better action if I elevate the butt end of my cue just a bit...not too much. I know this flys in the face of what people have said forever, but it works. While this method may increase your draw speed somewhat, it may also diminish shooting accuracy a bit. My 0.02.

kollegedave
 
CaptiveBred said:
Danny Basavich says you will never need more than six feet when drawing...


Here are some tips that help me -

Level cue
Accelerate and follow through
No need to hit hard. More stroke and less speed = more draw
Putting some extra wrist into it makes a big difference. Try it out
Click to expand...

I think Danny has a good point. The odds of this exact shot coming up in a match are pretty slim. I think I would look for a way to use the natural roll with top spin to get shape. Draw shots are definitely an important aspect of the game, but rarely is there only one way to make a shot and get shape. I would look for any other options using top spin (cheating the pocket, going rail first, etc.) before I would try to draw that shot back. It can be done, but it would be very difficult to control.
That being said, the above advise is good for a draw shot. Stroke so that the tip of the cue moves smoothly through the bottom of the cue ball. Increasing the speed of the stroke and the spin (hitting the cue ball as low as possible) will increase the draw distance, but you can't punch it...you have to stroke all the way through.
Steve
 
icem3n said:
Beside the aforesaid, you need to have a medium tip, not hard. This will grip the ball and spin it better.
Click to expand...

Just curious, why do you say that you need to have a medium tip? I shoot with Moori III Quicks (hard... very hard) on my cues and have an exceptional draw. Table length draw shots, IMO, have everything to do with stroke quality and very little to do with how hard of a tip you use.

Just my 2c,
Bob
 
i always love to try this draw shot, i can execute some nyce draws but not full length table, i leave that up to Corey

CueTable Help

 
One of the best pieces of advice that at first started my head shaking was when a player I respect told me to "keep your tip in the air." At first, I thought the guy didn't know what he was talking about, but after thinking about it, and working it out, my draw improved. Many players, while stroking low on the CB will end their stroke with their tip on the rag. When I concentrate on keeping my tip in the air, I'm only avoiding bringing my tip down to the rag at the end of my stroke, and keeping the tip at the same height as the spot at which I cue the CB. I think that doing doing this, helps to get a good follow through, or better yet, avoiding ending your stroke with the tip on the rag is also a good way to avoid a premature end to your stroke.
It works for me............................................but I know several great players that end their stroke with their tips on the rag, and can still draw miles!!
dave
 
Nothing matters except how your tip strikes the ball. Follow thru, which way your tip points afterwards, skid marks, none of that matters. The two most important factors in a power stroke of any kind, especially draw, is timing and straight cueing. Going straight thru the cueball is the most important part. You will get the most action that way. Watch the pros who have power strokes, like Deuel, Nevel, Rafael Martinez, etc. They have different techiniques, but can achieve the same result because their timing is perfect and their stroke is straight. You don't need a floppy wrist either.
 
Cane said:
Just curious, why do you say that you need to have a medium tip? I shoot with Moori III Quicks (hard... very hard) on my cues and have an exceptional draw. Table length draw shots, IMO, have everything to do with stroke quality and very little to do with how hard of a tip you use.
Click to expand...


I could draw with a hard tip. But to have the maximum effect, I would recommend a medium tip for better spin. One of the reason why tips were invented are basicly for playing topspin, english and draw. Unless you do want to play with a solid hard wood of your cue shaft, you be playing dead centre cueball for all i know.:D
 
icem3n said:
I could draw with a hard tip. But to have the maximum effect, I would recommend a medium tip for better spin. One of the reason why tips were invented are basicly for playing topspin, english and draw. Unless you do want to play with a solid hard wood of your cue shaft, you be playing dead centre cueball for all i know.:D
Click to expand...

The chalk grips the cueball, and the tip grips the chalk. You have it mixed up. You can get just as much english with a hard tip than you can with a medium or soft. The feel of the hit is different, the way english "grabs" is different, but that's about it. You are mistaken in your assumptions.
 
cuetechasaurus said:
The chalk grips the cueball, and the tip grips the chalk. You have it mixed up. You can get just as much english with a hard tip than you can with a medium or soft. The feel of the hit is different, the way english "grabs" is different, but that's about it. You are mistaken in your assumptions.
Click to expand...

Oh...:confused:

I haven't seen anyone stick a chalk to their shafts? It would be better a tip:p
Can you explain why a F1 wheel has sticky rubber and road vehicles don't?
 
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