Sweet 3 rail kick system

Colin Colenso said:
The key is the Magic Red dots in my diagrams.

The first system as introduced by this thread just happens to have its magic dot at the no.2 diamond. On my table it is actually a few inches from here, at the edge of the rail beside the diamond.

If you can remember the locations of these spots for the several systems I have diagrammed, and quickly adjust the positions with a few tests on new tables, you have a comprehensive system that doesn't require looking for diamonds or doing any math.

btw: Bob's comments on locating the distance are spot on. Test at the two extremes and connect the lines. Where they join is the magic distance point for each aim location. Usually comes out to about 8 feet from the table edge for me. That usually puts you close enough to make the hit anyway.
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Ok, I see it now. Wow you have that system set up for all possible options. Talk about going in depth! Very good Colin
 

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Colin Colenso said:
Here is another system I am working on. Again, lines are projected out about 8 feet from the table.

The spots for a touch of english and maximum english are drawn. They may change a bit for some tables.
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Colin,
Just so I better understand, could you draw the lines of your system to the drawing, that I added a new cue ball and a striped object ball?

Thanks,
Tracy
 

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RSB-Refugee said:
Colin,
Just so I better understand, could you draw the lines of your system to the drawing, that I added a new cue ball and a striped object ball?

Thanks,
Tracy
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Hi Tracey,
I made this system pretty quickly so haven't tested it much for accuracy.

If the OB is out in the middle of the table, you should estimate the path to the OB (pink lines) and then draw the line from there to where it would hit the rail on the left. The draw out the green lines from these points through the red spots to find your aim point. In this case the line passes right through the CB for the maximum english shot.
 

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supergreenman said:
I came across this 3 rail kick system a couple of weeks ago and have tried it out at several different places. ...
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The system begins a lot like a system called the "Opposite 3" which is described in Byrne's "Wonderful World of Billiards" book, except that system uses running english. The idea there is that if you hit opposite "3" on the long rail (your system goes "through" 2) the cue ball will land on the third rail exactly across from your starting location. The interesting extension in your system is the spot on the wall to allow other cue ball origins.

I tried your system today. The reference point on my table is not diamond 2. Instead it is a point about 4 inches off the table pretty much along the 2-2 line that you illustrated. A good test shot is to shoot from the side pocket and try to go to the opposite side pocket. On my table, diamond 2 has no chance to work for this.

Also, if the cue ball starts from the end rail, it always ends up too long, so some additional correction is needed.

In all, the system is much more accurate than I expected. Most 3-rail systems use running english allegedly for consistency, but this seems to be about as accurate as the normal corner-5 system if you have figured out the adjustments.

On most pool tables, the "opposite 3" system reference point is on the cloth between the second and third diamonds. On a carom table, the nominal reference point is the rail groove at diamond 3. The pool table case and some other diamond systems are described in the BD article at http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/1999-12.pdf
 
Bob Jewett said:
The system begins a lot like a system called the "Opposite 3" which is described in Byrne's "Wonderful World of Billiards" book, except that system uses running english. The idea there is that if you hit opposite "3" on the long rail (your system goes "through" 2) the cue ball will land on the third rail exactly across from your starting location. The interesting extension in your system is the spot on the wall to allow other cue ball origins.

I tried your system today. The reference point on my table is not diamond 2. Instead it is a point about 4 inches off the table pretty much along the 2-2 line that you illustrated. A good test shot is to shoot from the side pocket and try to go to the opposite side pocket. On my table, diamond 2 has no chance to work for this.

Also, if the cue ball starts from the end rail, it always ends up too long, so some additional correction is needed.

In all, the system is much more accurate than I expected. Most 3-rail systems use running english allegedly for consistency, but this seems to be about as accurate as the normal corner-5 system if you have figured out the adjustments.

On most pool tables, the "opposite 3" system reference point is on the cloth between the second and third diamonds. On a carom table, the nominal reference point is the rail groove at diamond 3. The pool table case and some other diamond systems are described in the BD article at http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/1999-12.pdf
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I noticed when I took this system to a 7 foot table with new cloth the ball ran long too. I spent about 45min playing around with different points on the wall last night and noticed what you mentioned about the CB positions running longer when they're closer to the end of the table. I tried different ways of adjusting for it including side spin. I found that shifting the aim point about an inch and a half once your past the last diamond at the foot of the table seemed to be the most consistant way of adjusting.
 
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