Taking the bolt out....

karambolista

noypi toits
Silver Member
Is it a bad thing to take the bolt out from the butt and leave it hollow? Would it produce vibrations if its the end part of the butt is hollow?
 
Most good cues are designed to have the bolt stay in there... Taking it out could cause some weird sounds and will most certainly change the weight and balance point to something other than what was intended by the cuemaker.

If the cue feels too heavy with the bolt in, the weight bolt can be changed for a lighter one....
 
BillYards said:
Most good cues are designed to have the bolt stay in there... Taking it out could cause some weird sounds and will most certainly change the weight and balance point to something other than what was intended by the cuemaker.

If the cue feels too heavy with the bolt in, the weight bolt can be changed for a lighter one....

I have to disagree with that, more and more cuemakers are using threaded or push in bumbers instead of the ones that are held in with a small screw attached to a weight bolt. The main exception to the rule would be the cues that have a delrin butt cap.
 
Mike:

Ok... Any thoughts about removing the bolt if it is not directly (or indirectly) holding the bumper on?
 
BillYards said:
Mike:

Ok... Any thoughts about removing the bolt if it is not directly (or indirectly) holding the bumper on?

Not so much the bumper but the butt cap, If it's delrin, then it needs the screw, I thread my delrin on when I use it but still use a bolt because of gluing properties. For my other cues with standard screw in bumper, they do not need a weight bolt. You have to take each cue on it's own construction or butt cap.
 
Michael Webb said:
I have to disagree with that, more and more cuemakers are using threaded or push in bumbers instead of the ones that are held in with a small screw attached to a weight bolt. The main exception to the rule would be the cues that have a delrin butt cap.
BK2.jpg

Hi Mike.
That's a threaded Delrin. I see no reason to hold it with a bolt.
I can still use a 3/8 16 threaded bumper on the 3/4 wood tenon.
The epoxy I use to go in between those threads is so hard and impact resistant, the wood's threads will have to shatter for that Delrin to move.
I have a Zylr cue with a threaded Delrin butt cap. I've pounded the thing on the floor hundreds of times and it has not budged.
I think it's even more stable than press-fitted phenolic.
1-inch length minimum though.
 
Joey,
You are correct and I use to think that also. But sometimes I run across the abnormal customer who has to play with everything, now I just don't use delrin at all.
 
Michael Webb said:
Joey,
You are correct and I use to think that also. But sometimes I run across the abnormal customer who has to play with everything, now I just don't use delrin at all.
Wow. I did shatter a short phenolic buttcap one time. I think it was because it was so tightly press-fitted, it shattered from the inside.
I don't know why Atlas has these LE phenolics with .625" and .750" ID. They should be a little smaller so then be threaded easier ( so you don't have to bore out brass/nickle rings with the same id's).
I love Delrin buttcap though. It's ALMOST indestructible.
But, I've come across one or two where you can spin it by hand.:eek:
 
I'm staying away from delrin also, but I can't argue with the fact that It is durable, because It Is tuff stuff when It comes to cracking or splitting.

Greg
 
Weight bolt info........

Once and awhile someone brings me a cue that they want the bolt out of entirely. If this cue has a bumper that needs a screw to hold it on, I've had good luck using just a nylon bolt. These are available in several lengths, are super easy to drill, and tap, and best of all weigh hardly anything. I've done that on a few Schon cues over the years to. Just my 2 cents.

Sean
 
Jon said:
Why the 1" minimum length?
I just feel Delrin needs that much lenght for the epoxy to be able to take the abuse.
A friend has a short Delrin buttcap ( threaded ) on his cue and it loosened up.
 
karambolista said:
Is it a bad thing to take the bolt out from the butt and leave it hollow? Would it produce vibrations if its the end part of the butt is hollow?

Here is how you find the answers to your question.

1. Remove the butt cap and take out the weight bolt.
(if you cant do that have a cue repair person do it for you)

2. Take the cue to the pool hall and play some pool.

It should not take you very long to get the answers to your questions.
You can always put the bolt back in if you dont like it that way.
 
wastateqman said:
Once and awhile someone brings me a cue that they want the bolt out of entirely. If this cue has a bumper that needs a screw to hold it on, I've had good luck using just a nylon bolt. These are available in several lengths, are super easy to drill, and tap, and best of all weigh hardly anything. I've done that on a few Schon cues over the years to. Just my 2 cents.

Sean
Hi, re: weight bolts...two questions: 1. Where do you get a variety of inexpensive weight bolts for different model cues? 2. How do you get the weight bolt out of a cue that has it "glued" in (Huebler cues come to mind) ?
Thanks,
nancewayne
 
Back
Top