tap for Uniloc
- Thread starter ratcues
- Start date
rhncue said:
I think I used those threads to make a set joint caps for a flat face one time, but ofcoarse that did'nt need to be as precise. They worked well enough for something like that. I'm not sure when it comes to an insert though. I have'nt tried that one I don't think. The threads matched up good enough for caps though I'm pretty sure. It was even uniloc or a knock off pin.
Greg
I make the inserts now after having one come out.... 7/16ths x 20 thread who was the genius that came up with that. The tap was a special grind expensive. My inserts are blind so the glue does not get in the threads nor wood shavings and have a 7/16 - 14 on the od.ratcues said:
Atlas sells them Ryan. It comes in the "starter pack". See if Chad will sell you just the tap.
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RocketQ said:
Incorrect...they do indeed have the 7/16-20 insert tap listed as part of the Unilock starter package.
Craytex
I believe you are refering to the internal threads on the insert,
the 3/8" x 10 tap fits in sloppy, but you can hand dress the uni-loc*'s
internal threads with it. I had a problem similar to yours.
I glued a top piece on a cap and stood it up to dry, forgetting the gule runs down (gravity infuenced..ha) and dryed in those 3/8' internal threads.
THe cap was a beautiful cap and just couldn't scrap-it. I used the sloppy 3/8" x 10 tap to knock out the big chunks and a single point internal threading toolbit to hand dress the internal threads and use kraytex to polish out the scratches. Saved my ass.
I use a ruberized abrasive with the brand name kraytex.
I use the brown (fine) of polish and the green (coarse) for small burrs.
About the uni-loc*'s out side threads, I think everybody knows it's
a uinfied national fine thread 7/16" x 20 tpi on 7/16" NF. Quite a common
tap and die thing.
I believe you are refering to the internal threads on the insert,
the 3/8" x 10 tap fits in sloppy, but you can hand dress the uni-loc*'s
internal threads with it. I had a problem similar to yours.
I glued a top piece on a cap and stood it up to dry, forgetting the gule runs down (gravity infuenced..ha) and dryed in those 3/8' internal threads.
THe cap was a beautiful cap and just couldn't scrap-it. I used the sloppy 3/8" x 10 tap to knock out the big chunks and a single point internal threading toolbit to hand dress the internal threads and use kraytex to polish out the scratches. Saved my ass.
I use a ruberized abrasive with the brand name kraytex.
I use the brown (fine) of polish and the green (coarse) for small burrs.
About the uni-loc*'s out side threads, I think everybody knows it's
a uinfied national fine thread 7/16" x 20 tpi on 7/16" NF. Quite a common
tap and die thing.
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Yep the 7/16 -20 is to put the insert in. I was talking about the actual quick release threads. It is almost a 3/8-10 but the major dia. has a flat crest and minor dia. a flat trough. I have a custom tap for that special thread to make the inserts...
I honestly think the unilock pin hits like crap. I feel so strongly about it that I've lost thousands declining to build cues using them. I'm not in that big a hurry to screw/unscrew my cue together so I see no benefit. Unilock is more on the right track with the Radial....and no insert needed.
I find 2 distinct disadvantages to the Uni-Loc pin & insert system. The cue will loosen during play all by itself from impact & vibration. I believe this is due to minimal thread contact, 1 turn, 1 thread.
My other concern as a builder is the lack of a centering chamfer at the entrance to the insert. Any other insert has a centering chamfer cut while the insert is drilled/tapped so the shaft can be accurately centered on the live center for future operations. Not so with the Uni-Loc. This makes for great difficulty when say, cutting the ringwork & trying to keep the insert in the center of the shaft (concentric). A 'work-around' that I've used is to cut a Uni-Loc pin to a length that just protrudes from the insert so that you have something to grip on & center drill the end that sticks out. That way I have a means of centering although not as accurate as I'd like.
If anyone has found a better method, I'd be very anxious to hear about it.
My other concern as a builder is the lack of a centering chamfer at the entrance to the insert. Any other insert has a centering chamfer cut while the insert is drilled/tapped so the shaft can be accurately centered on the live center for future operations. Not so with the Uni-Loc. This makes for great difficulty when say, cutting the ringwork & trying to keep the insert in the center of the shaft (concentric). A 'work-around' that I've used is to cut a Uni-Loc pin to a length that just protrudes from the insert so that you have something to grip on & center drill the end that sticks out. That way I have a means of centering although not as accurate as I'd like.
If anyone has found a better method, I'd be very anxious to hear about it.
If I get an order for a cue with a Uni-Loc pin, I make sure the pilot is very snug. It adds a bit more solidity to the joint.
I would be totally amazed if anyone on earth could tell the difference between the way a 5/16" or a Uniloc pin "hits". I guarantee that if someone had 2 identical cues (almost impossible in itself), one with a uniloc and another with a similar weight 5/16" (or other) pin, the only way you would know for sure is to unscrew them.
I would be totally amazed if anyone on earth could tell the difference between the way a 5/16" or a Uniloc pin "hits". I guarantee that if someone had 2 identical cues (almost impossible in itself), one with a uniloc and another with a similar weight 5/16" (or other) pin, the only way you would know for sure is to unscrew them.
Sheldon said:
I agree Sheldon
. Uni-Loc Quick Release pins are not the easiest pin to install - in fact, they are the most difficult. If they are not installed correctly the joint will NOT seat properly. If installed correctly the cue hits fine.Good Cuemaking,
Arnot
John,RocketQ said:
You've just described an acme thread,'flat crest and trough'. A true acme has a 29 degree included angle (per side = 58 degree). You are claiming it to be a 60 degree. I didn't come here to quibble about kibble. I did state it to be a 'modified' acme. There are other variations of it's thread, from a true acme, that qualify it to be called modified. Just sharing what I know.