Taper on the OB-2

metallicane

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Does anyone out there change the taper on the OB-2 to match the taper of the OB-1? I just got the OB-2 yesterday and the taper is certainly different. The wood color is also very dark which looks awkward but not a big deal.
 
Isn't it too thin (11.75mm) to match the OB-1 taper?

I guess they use a more conical (straighter) taper to keep the strength at a smaller tip size (and therefore less weight and less deflection).
Would an OB-2 with a pro taper be playable?
I really don't know what is the thinnest you can go with a pro taper.
 
trade it first,worthsomething before,not sure of value after

I most certainly wouldn't change the ob-2 shaft taper yet. Play with it ,it is a stiffer taper ,euro- Give Royce the benefit of the dought. Just like all the pred products,the shafts have diff-pivot points. I have read The George Balakuska cues played so good (because of the shafts) cuemakers around the world copied the Szams,Balabuska,gina's, not just the cue but the shaft too.
 
Does anyone out there change the taper on the OB-2 to match the taper of the OB-1? I just got the OB-2 yesterday and the taper is certainly different. The wood color is also very dark which looks awkward but not a big deal.

I'm thinking it would get awfully whippy if you mess with the taper. Have you tried it much "as is" yet? They really play nice, but do take a few days to get used to. I would give it a little more time.
 
metallicane,

Thanks for choosing the OB-2!

When we developed the OB-2, our goal was to get lower cue ball deflection from the smaller tip size, create a little stiffer hit, and do so in a package that didn't feel like it was super thin.

The OB-2 is actually pretty close to the same size about 10" back from the tip as the OB-1 so your bridge area is not a great deal different than the OB-1.

The benefits, of course are much lower cue ball squirt or deflection, but most customers like the hit the best. The OB-2 hits a little stiffer than the OB-1 because of the taper, but mostly because the Vibrations Dampening Core is smaller. In order to take the tip size down to 11.75, we needed to reduce the core size to maintain wall thickness. In doing so, we also reduced the core hole size and the VDC size. This results in a little harder hit with a little more sound.


As far as making it like the OB-1's taper, that would be impossible. It is already smaller, so you just couldn't get there. If you were to choose to take the smaller tip size further back, you still have to make up the difference before you get to the joint. I recommend giving it a shot like it is. We have very many people giving very favorable reviews of it.

I hope that answers your questions!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
Does anyone out there change the taper on the OB-2 to match the taper of the OB-1? I just got the OB-2 yesterday and the taper is certainly different. The wood color is also very dark which looks awkward but not a big deal.

Why would you do that? Might as well get an OB-1. It defeats the purpose of having an OB-2...
 
Does anyone out there change the taper on the OB-2 to match the taper of the OB-1? I just got the OB-2 yesterday and the taper is certainly different. The wood color is also very dark which looks awkward but not a big deal.

Now that you brought this to my attention I will have to double check mines taper. I bridge at about 10 inches so I am above the taper. All I know is I love her fitted w/ a Sniper tip and all of her 30 inches!
 
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