Taper shaper question for taper shaper owners

cuejo

cuejo

Cue Repair tech
Silver Member
I recently got my taper shaper...
Started turning square to round

I'm seeing that the dowel is nice and round, but out almost a mm from left end to right end.
I set the taper bar flush on both ends.
Is it possible that the drive spur and dead center are out of alignment with the taper bar?
I have not contacted unique yet,
I don't really think this is a big deal, unless I want to turn coring dowels......
Anyone else see this issue?
Do I need to zero it and mark the taper bar so it cuts straight?
 
The right side needs to be flush all the time and move inward or outwards the left side.
Use the pins that came with it to mark the offset and you are good to go.
Some people may give you different advice but you have to do what works for you.


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What about the left side?
I just assumed that if both sides were flush it would be a straight cut....
Thanks Tony
 
cuejo said:
What about the left side?
I just assumed that if both sides were flush it would be a straight cut....
Thanks Tony
Click to expand...

I thought that as well. You just need to adjust the left side accordingly.
If you have any more questions feel free to give me a buzz 209-482-7768.



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cuejo said:
I recently got my taper shaper...
Started turning square to round

I'm seeing that the dowel is nice and round, but out almost a mm from left end to right end.
I set the taper bar flush on both ends.
Is it possible that the drive spur and dead center are out of alignment with the taper bar?
I have not contacted unique yet,
I don't really think this is a big deal, unless I want to turn coring dowels......
Anyone else see this issue?
Do I need to zero it and mark the taper bar so it cuts straight?
Click to expand...

Easy fix but a little wordy.
You got PM.
 
Easy to set up

I found it best to add a roll pin to the right side, By drilling a hole to fit a roll pin into tightly, then enlarging the hole that needs a little clearance to slip into just a little larger ID. To clarify: I make the taper bar hole small enough to be press fitted with the roll pin, then after drilling both the bar and the machine base to the same size, remove the taper bar and re-drill the hole into the machine so that a very slight clearance will exist to permit accepting the roll pin that is installed in the taper bar. This step ensures a more repeatable starting point than just feeling if it is flush. Maybe a bit anal? I will not defend that. And then make the left side tool, which comes with the TS, adjusted to length for a perfect dowel.
One can determine when things are closely adjusted by making a long, 30 inch, straight stainless steel, or other stable metal, rod with appropriate center holes. I mount an indicator on the carriage and test against the SS rod. Then readjust, then test again, until I get a level of accuracy that pleases me. Sometimes I will make a permanent left side pin by first using the adjustable pin and collar, then make a one piece pin to that exact size on my metal lathe.
I do the above tests to both set up my dowel rod and butt taper jigs. AS far as shafts go: made my own adjustable shaft bar from scrap materials, it works perfectly, and is my taper, not someone elses. Though the Unique taper is a good starting point for most.
 
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I'm still turning square round,
Haven't tried the unique shaft taper yet,
I did get an adjustable taper bar as well so I can tweak my own taper.
I am very impressed with this machine already. The quiet router is just that!
I just have to build my down draft table for the dust collector now :)
Thanks for all the Pm's!
Az is s good place to hand around :D
 
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