The $200 question
- Thread starter chipperd
- Start date
Player???...
Mcdermott G-Core start under $220, have one and like it. Vikings with the Vikore shaft start under $200 but I've never hit with one. Both are marketed as low deflection and have excellent warranties. Both brands have regular maple shafts for a little bit less I think.
Best playing is very subjective.
For a new cue, the best value in any line would likely be a full splice no wrap (sneaky pete) cue.
For a used cue, many times you can find a gently used one for a fraction of the price of a new cue. Most of the time I pay for a shaft polishing, a new tip and its good to go.
For a new cue, the best value in any line would likely be a full splice no wrap (sneaky pete) cue.
For a used cue, many times you can find a gently used one for a fraction of the price of a new cue. Most of the time I pay for a shaft polishing, a new tip and its good to go.
I must contradict: the best value is in merry widows with a linen wrap.
Cuetec does a remarkably good shaft if you're not too keen on shaft balance (R360) and has some gorgeous wood butts (CER, CEV series), too. Squirt is OK, too. Weight is (of course) easily adjustable.
Throw in another tip (Sniper, Onyx instead of the regular Everest) and you should have a solid workman's cue.
Universal in that price range has a relatively normal squirt shaft, unfortunately, but very well-made (MAX8 shaft).
The player's shaft I haven't played yet, unfortunately. There's some $200 cues with their LD shaft.
All other brands are hard to get in Germany so I went with readily available ones.
I'd buy a cue with a 3/8x10 joint - there are countless shafts available for that joint. Any other joint is funny business.
So you could update easily afterwards.
Cheers.
Cuetec does a remarkably good shaft if you're not too keen on shaft balance (R360) and has some gorgeous wood butts (CER, CEV series), too. Squirt is OK, too. Weight is (of course) easily adjustable.
Throw in another tip (Sniper, Onyx instead of the regular Everest) and you should have a solid workman's cue.
Universal in that price range has a relatively normal squirt shaft, unfortunately, but very well-made (MAX8 shaft).
The player's shaft I haven't played yet, unfortunately. There's some $200 cues with their LD shaft.
All other brands are hard to get in Germany so I went with readily available ones.
I'd buy a cue with a 3/8x10 joint - there are countless shafts available for that joint. Any other joint is funny business.
So you could update easily afterwards.
Cheers.
If you just want a cue that performs well and doesnt cost you a fortune, you should definitely check out the HXT series by players.
They do a fine job as playing cues and there are rather nice looking ones available too for everyones taste.
I have a HXTE10 myself and I love it, even when I have bought a couple off Mezz cues, pred shafts etc after that HXT cue. They are great for the price :smile:
They do a fine job as playing cues and there are rather nice looking ones available too for everyones taste.
I have a HXTE10 myself and I love it, even when I have bought a couple off Mezz cues, pred shafts etc after that HXT cue. They are great for the price :smile:
dude!!!!!!!!!!!!
A couple options:
1. Get a used butt and then buy a new OB shaft for it. The first gen OB shafts are going for $165. That doesnt leave much room for the butt but you dont need anything fancy
2. Buy a used cue. This is what I would do (and still do). I wouldnt pay more than half retail cost for a used cue. If you can find one for less than half retail you should be able to sell it for what you paid (or more) even after playing with it for a couple years. I love buying and selling cues.
If you spend some time looking you can get a smoking deal. Some folks get out of the game and just want to get rid of all their gear in one shot.
1. Get a used butt and then buy a new OB shaft for it. The first gen OB shafts are going for $165. That doesnt leave much room for the butt but you dont need anything fancy
2. Buy a used cue. This is what I would do (and still do). I wouldnt pay more than half retail cost for a used cue. If you can find one for less than half retail you should be able to sell it for what you paid (or more) even after playing with it for a couple years. I love buying and selling cues.
If you spend some time looking you can get a smoking deal. Some folks get out of the game and just want to get rid of all their gear in one shot.
The dude abides. :grin:
Merry Christmas
I see two great names listed so far, Players and Smelke.
I know enough people who's opinion I trust. Players? I don't believe you could go wrong on one and they stand behind their product as far as I know.
Then there is the opinion of my most trusted opinion here in Salem Oregon.
The best Pool Hall around here is called the CueBall, same guy running it for over fifty years, I first met him while in High School and I graduated in 1982.
Back in 2011 I showed him pictures of my cues I had already made, he looked at me and back at the pictures, then he said, bring me some of these, then he told me a GREAT STORY.
He talked about his younger days, back when he and "Old Man Smelke" were close friends and how many of his Cues he sold for them.
He told me how much the cues cost back in the day and how much more they are worth today.
Seems a lot like the Stock Market on a Bull Run backed by the people who knew before any yelpers grew.
Smelke, no matter the proper spelling, is a NO LOSE CUE, you can't go wrong.
I have a nitch market and I am very happy, I make longer cues and I don't compete with most Cue Makers but I would recommend Schmelke to anyone, rest assured, for what my crappy opinion is worth, GREAT CHOICE.
Merry Christmas
I see two great names listed so far, Players and Smelke.
I know enough people who's opinion I trust. Players? I don't believe you could go wrong on one and they stand behind their product as far as I know.
Then there is the opinion of my most trusted opinion here in Salem Oregon.
The best Pool Hall around here is called the CueBall, same guy running it for over fifty years, I first met him while in High School and I graduated in 1982.
Back in 2011 I showed him pictures of my cues I had already made, he looked at me and back at the pictures, then he said, bring me some of these, then he told me a GREAT STORY.
He talked about his younger days, back when he and "Old Man Smelke" were close friends and how many of his Cues he sold for them.
He told me how much the cues cost back in the day and how much more they are worth today.
Seems a lot like the Stock Market on a Bull Run backed by the people who knew before any yelpers grew.
Smelke, no matter the proper spelling, is a NO LOSE CUE, you can't go wrong.
I have a nitch market and I am very happy, I make longer cues and I don't compete with most Cue Makers but I would recommend Schmelke to anyone, rest assured, for what my crappy opinion is worth, GREAT CHOICE.
Merry Christmas
In addition to all the others you'll read here:
Mezz sneaky pete
Cuetec
Freddie <~~~ plays equally bad with all
SHAME ON ANYONE WHO HAS TURNED OFF THE AVATARS AND MISSED YOURS!!
U SIR SHOULD BE UP FOR AV OF THE YEAR!!!!!
Now what was this post about again??????. WOW!
ElCorazonFrio
Banned
I'll throw my hat in the ring for Schmelke, also. I just got a 60", bubinga front/maple rear fullsplice with hoppe ring and bumperless with two shafts for under $270 shipped. If one were to buy that cue with their standard joint, no bumper, hoppe ring and standard length, I think it would still have come in at about $210-225. Lose the second shaft and you are under $200.
The finish is almost perfect (they didn't finish the end of the butt, that was weird for a bumperless, but doesn't bother me much--I'll do something cool to it). The bubinga is nice, a bit of curl. The maple is perfectly white and makes a beautiful contrast.
Top notch and American made to order in 4weeks (delivered).
Plays well, nearly as well as my Sly, Olivier, LP or the Frey I gave to a friend.
The finish is almost perfect (they didn't finish the end of the butt, that was weird for a bumperless, but doesn't bother me much--I'll do something cool to it). The bubinga is nice, a bit of curl. The maple is perfectly white and makes a beautiful contrast.
Top notch and American made to order in 4weeks (delivered).
Plays well, nearly as well as my Sly, Olivier, LP or the Frey I gave to a friend.
Redwing4114
Registered
I have a players sneaky cue and it plays great. It is my first cue.
Balance point is 30 cm down from the cue butt joint. Only thing that is a bit off is the joint.
The butt joint is recessed and there is a gap where no wood is touching the shaft.
Balance point is 30 cm down from the cue butt joint. Only thing that is a bit off is the joint.
The butt joint is recessed and there is a gap where no wood is touching the shaft.