The core of the maple tree
- Thread starter qguy
- Start date
The core or heart of the tree is dead. It is darker colored, stained,and has some rot. If it is dried in a kiln it is very prone to cracking. Commercially it is a losing proposition for a mill to try to process lumber that no one wants in profitable quantities.
That having been said I think that heartwood birdseye maple just might be the best playing maple for use in butts there is. You just can't get it.
That having been said I think that heartwood birdseye maple just might be the best playing maple for use in butts there is. You just can't get it.
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You should have left it alone. It would play better.
The core of the maple
Pretty light colored for heart wood. Plus I've never seen bark in heartwood before. Who sold you it to you. I've had several pieces that were partially
heart wood, but never a piece that I could get a turned and only have heartwood showing. Birdseyes grow(not sure if that is the correct term) radially, so usually are much denser near the middle of the tree.
Pretty light colored for heart wood. Plus I've never seen bark in heartwood before. Who sold you it to you. I've had several pieces that were partially
heart wood, but never a piece that I could get a turned and only have heartwood showing. Birdseyes grow(not sure if that is the correct term) radially, so usually are much denser near the middle of the tree.
Quite possible Mr. Dayton but the cracking possibility will be there too.
Seen too many b'eyes snap under the pin here in this site too many times for my liking.
I core them all ( BEM's ) now.
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Coring
Yes Joey, I have noticed cue makers seem divided on coring. Two cue makers in my area said hell no, never, no need and one says Gus and George didn't core their cues! Is it just old school, old guy mentality or is it because of the extra work? No disrespect intended to cue makers who dont core, just trying to understand. My small research has indicated stability, balance and weight of butt to be the reasons for coring. Have noticed quite a few reputable makers core ALL their cues. Would be interesting to see a list of who does and who doesn't! Thanks for your time.
Yes Joey, I have noticed cue makers seem divided on coring. Two cue makers in my area said hell no, never, no need and one says Gus and George didn't core their cues! Is it just old school, old guy mentality or is it because of the extra work? No disrespect intended to cue makers who dont core, just trying to understand. My small research has indicated stability, balance and weight of butt to be the reasons for coring. Have noticed quite a few reputable makers core ALL their cues. Would be interesting to see a list of who does and who doesn't! Thanks for your time.
Gus didn't core and I don't if he would have if he saw a gun drill.
He did make his blanks on saws while the woods were square.
I don't GB ever saw a gun drill.
I core for one main reason, peace of mind .
I don't core everything though. I don't core bocote or straight grain purpleheart.
I don't think short splice needs coring if the nose is a stable wood.
I will core all BEM's and Curly maple . They cannot be more stable than my rosewood or straight grain dowels. If the cue is going to Asia, it will most likely be cored.
A lot of people 1/4 saw their logs which splits the center into 4 pieces. That might be one reason we don't see more absolute centered cores. I would think a really nice birdseye core would actually have eyes coming out all 4 sides. Then if they flat saw the boards they would have a harder time holding a 30 inch piece right down the middle. It is probably more work than anyone would want to try and do for a very dark stained looking piece.
Here is a way for you to see how it would look. Go out and cut down a small hardwood tree (preferably maple) that is only a few inches in diameter. Take a section and center drill it right in the middle on both ends of the piece and turn it round.
Here is a way for you to see how it would look. Go out and cut down a small hardwood tree (preferably maple) that is only a few inches in diameter. Take a section and center drill it right in the middle on both ends of the piece and turn it round.
tap, tap
with coring being such an easy method these days, i don't think birdseye has any business not being cored. Especially if the customer is paying for a quality product. In my opinion its no different than any lightweight, weak burl.
The center of the tree is called the pith. Its generally unstable. Look at the cheap treated pine 4x4's and 6x6's and they'll usually include the pith in them.
The core of the maple
We're digressing into a coring or not to core debate, so I'll throw this in.
Are you building the cue for stability or playability. Let's face it, you can't build a cue that some knuckle head can't break. Properly aged birdseye and curly maple are plenty stable and strong for a pool cue forearm. See lots of people looking for curly maple shafts, guess you'll want to core them.
Course if you buy, turn, sell and ship a forearm in 1 year, anything can warp. Gun drills were available when Gus and George were building.
I've seen gun drills from the Revolutionary War. There was a reason they didn't core their cues. If you ever get chance to play with or see someone playing with a vintage George or Gus, listen very closely to them. They have a sound like no others.
I'm sure George would never have made a cue out of burl, and probably Gus would agree. Things have changed since those days, and there is most definitely a place for art/collectible/designer cues. Core if you must, but give Mother Nature more credit on the quality of some of her work.
We're digressing into a coring or not to core debate, so I'll throw this in.
Are you building the cue for stability or playability. Let's face it, you can't build a cue that some knuckle head can't break. Properly aged birdseye and curly maple are plenty stable and strong for a pool cue forearm. See lots of people looking for curly maple shafts, guess you'll want to core them.
Course if you buy, turn, sell and ship a forearm in 1 year, anything can warp. Gun drills were available when Gus and George were building.
I've seen gun drills from the Revolutionary War. There was a reason they didn't core their cues. If you ever get chance to play with or see someone playing with a vintage George or Gus, listen very closely to them. They have a sound like no others.
I'm sure George would never have made a cue out of burl, and probably Gus would agree. Things have changed since those days, and there is most definitely a place for art/collectible/designer cues. Core if you must, but give Mother Nature more credit on the quality of some of her work.
I core everything that needs coring but birdseye maple is not a wood that needs a core. If the actual grain of the BEM has too much run out then don't use it. If you have to use it. then core it. Birdseye maple has been the standard of the industry since the 1970's and there are millions and millions of BEM fronted cues out there that work perfectly and don't break.
Cues that snap at the joint are either abused or the joint was poorly made.
Steve is right in saying that if you don't have seasoned wood, coring is probably a good idea. That seems to be a factor in a number of cues made today where the maker bought the DVD and cue making lathe and is anxious to put out cues. The first thing any cue maker should buy is wood and it should be his primary purchasing concern for quite a while until he has a supply of seasoned pieces. The shortcuts that do exist are
usually compromises for the lack of seasoned wood and they necessarily affect the way the cue plays.
As far as the topic of this thread goes, I have a standing order out with my birdseye suppliers to send me any heartwood that they get.
I've never bought a cue making dvd. My main lathe is a humble Logan .
Not as nice as your Sharp but it is a metal lathe with Bison 6-jaw.
My woods season for years under Southern California weather without AC. Minutes away from Tad's no AC shop.
My humidifier only fires up when humidity goes below 20% .
Bushka did not use birdseye maple I believe.
If it has a ton of eyes, I'm coring it with rosewood or select straight grain.
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Good post - Thanks
Great post! Your post pretty much sums up my feelings on coring. I will core if I feel it is needed. And birdseye forearms play great without a core and stay straight under normal conditions, so I don't core them.
Coring
I consider your remark an insult to myself and others who core their wood.
Coring takes a lot more time than non-coring. My wood does not even come near a tool bit for at least 5-years and I do not have a DVD and I do not
core on my cuemakers lathe. You should perhaps consider what the old cue maker once said, "the ONLY things really worth knowing are those things you
learn AFTER you think you know it all".
I consider your remark an insult to myself and others who core their wood.
Coring takes a lot more time than non-coring. My wood does not even come near a tool bit for at least 5-years and I do not have a DVD and I do not
core on my cuemakers lathe. You should perhaps consider what the old cue maker once said, "the ONLY things really worth knowing are those things you
learn AFTER you think you know it all".
to core or not to core
Old wood or a more stable type of wood is less in need of coring. If you can produce good work that won't warp with the wood you have then I say don't core. I see it a simple decision. Unless you don't like the hit of a cored cue but that's another kettle of fish? They all play good for me.
Old wood or a more stable type of wood is less in need of coring. If you can produce good work that won't warp with the wood you have then I say don't core. I see it a simple decision. Unless you don't like the hit of a cored cue but that's another kettle of fish? They all play good for me.