Not to long ago there was a thread about how to get a dent out of a laminated LD shaft.
Everyone or allot of us including me said water or steam.
But I did say I wouldn't use water or steam on any laminated LD shaft.
Removing a dent in a solid maple shaft is extremely easy using many different technics.
Water steam, wet towels wet band aids wet towel and a hot butter knife.
But on a laminated LD shaft, the same technics is a major no no according to Predator laminated LD shafts......
So after a little research I thought I would post a little more info about Laminated LD shafts.
Everything below this sentence is copied/ quoted directly word for word from the predators web site,
http://www.predatorcues.com/technique/
About Pivot Points
With any shaft, there is an optimal point on the shaft, called the pivot point, where you need to bridge to maximize your accuracy. In simple terms, if you bridge at the correct pivot point for your shaft and your initial set-up alignment is on target, you can actually hit the cue ball off-center and still hit the 1-ball dead center.
At that bridge length, the deflection, or squirt, produced by the shaft will compensate for a stroke that deviated from its original set up or alignment. The optimal pivot point on the break is the bridge length that allows you to maximize your speed and gain maximum forgiveness at the same time.
The BK2’s pivot point has been tuned between 13″ and 14″ to allow you to maximize both acceleration and forgiveness at the same time.
A majority of strong breakers bridge between 13″ and 14″ because it allows them greater acceleration and more powerful breaks. Most break cues have pivot points between 9″ and 11″ and require an extremely accurate stroke when using a longer bridge to generate speed. The BK2’s pivot point has been tuned between 13″ and 14″ to allow you to maximize both acceleration and forgiveness at the same time. With a pivot point 2″ longer than its next competitor, the BK2 gives you greater speed, increased accuracy and, much more importantly, a more powerful break.
Shaping Your Tip
Predator research has clearly shown that a dime radius (or shape of a dime) will produce 5 percent to 10 percent less cue ball deflection than the more commonly used nickel shape. The cue ball deflection is reduced because the dime radius centralizes the hit to the center, or strong part, of the shaft.
What Burnishing Does For Your Shaft
The purpose of burnishing your shaft is to smooth and seal the wood. The more you burnish, the better the finish and, the slicker and more moisture resistant your shaft becomes. Moisture is the #1 enemy of your shaft. It causes the grain to raise and your shaft to warp. To burnish your shaft, use a leather burnisher and avoid abrasives. Sanding your shaft wears it down and makes the wood porous, which allows moisture to penetrate the grain and damage the wood.
Stay Away From Abrasives
Do not use any abrasives on your shaft and stay away from green pads in Pool Rooms. Using abrasives is going to take the diameter of your shaft down and modify the shape of your taper. It may even void the warranty of your Predator shaft if the ferrule or wood diameter falls below 12.25mm for 314 shafts and 11.4mm for Z shafts. Very fine micro papers (1500 grit) or burnishing is about all you need.
Break Cue Weight
Contrary to what many believe, lighter is better when choosing a break cue weight. Even though a heavier break cue feels more powerful, a more powerful break will be achieved with a cue weighing 18.5 to 19 oz. Most professional players break with a cue that is 1/2 to 1 oz lighter than their playing cue because less weight allows them to generate more cue speed, resulting in greater cue ball speed and a more powerful break.
I hope this info is useful to some of you guys who use laminated LD shafts .
Everyone or allot of us including me said water or steam.
But I did say I wouldn't use water or steam on any laminated LD shaft.
Removing a dent in a solid maple shaft is extremely easy using many different technics.
Water steam, wet towels wet band aids wet towel and a hot butter knife.
But on a laminated LD shaft, the same technics is a major no no according to Predator laminated LD shafts......
So after a little research I thought I would post a little more info about Laminated LD shafts.
Everything below this sentence is copied/ quoted directly word for word from the predators web site,
http://www.predatorcues.com/technique/
About Pivot Points
With any shaft, there is an optimal point on the shaft, called the pivot point, where you need to bridge to maximize your accuracy. In simple terms, if you bridge at the correct pivot point for your shaft and your initial set-up alignment is on target, you can actually hit the cue ball off-center and still hit the 1-ball dead center.
At that bridge length, the deflection, or squirt, produced by the shaft will compensate for a stroke that deviated from its original set up or alignment. The optimal pivot point on the break is the bridge length that allows you to maximize your speed and gain maximum forgiveness at the same time.
The BK2’s pivot point has been tuned between 13″ and 14″ to allow you to maximize both acceleration and forgiveness at the same time.
A majority of strong breakers bridge between 13″ and 14″ because it allows them greater acceleration and more powerful breaks. Most break cues have pivot points between 9″ and 11″ and require an extremely accurate stroke when using a longer bridge to generate speed. The BK2’s pivot point has been tuned between 13″ and 14″ to allow you to maximize both acceleration and forgiveness at the same time. With a pivot point 2″ longer than its next competitor, the BK2 gives you greater speed, increased accuracy and, much more importantly, a more powerful break.
Shaping Your Tip
Predator research has clearly shown that a dime radius (or shape of a dime) will produce 5 percent to 10 percent less cue ball deflection than the more commonly used nickel shape. The cue ball deflection is reduced because the dime radius centralizes the hit to the center, or strong part, of the shaft.
What Burnishing Does For Your Shaft
The purpose of burnishing your shaft is to smooth and seal the wood. The more you burnish, the better the finish and, the slicker and more moisture resistant your shaft becomes. Moisture is the #1 enemy of your shaft. It causes the grain to raise and your shaft to warp. To burnish your shaft, use a leather burnisher and avoid abrasives. Sanding your shaft wears it down and makes the wood porous, which allows moisture to penetrate the grain and damage the wood.
Stay Away From Abrasives
Do not use any abrasives on your shaft and stay away from green pads in Pool Rooms. Using abrasives is going to take the diameter of your shaft down and modify the shape of your taper. It may even void the warranty of your Predator shaft if the ferrule or wood diameter falls below 12.25mm for 314 shafts and 11.4mm for Z shafts. Very fine micro papers (1500 grit) or burnishing is about all you need.
Break Cue Weight
Contrary to what many believe, lighter is better when choosing a break cue weight. Even though a heavier break cue feels more powerful, a more powerful break will be achieved with a cue weighing 18.5 to 19 oz. Most professional players break with a cue that is 1/2 to 1 oz lighter than their playing cue because less weight allows them to generate more cue speed, resulting in greater cue ball speed and a more powerful break.
I hope this info is useful to some of you guys who use laminated LD shafts .
More recently, I took my 1985 Joss MW to SBE and showed it to Dan Janes. After 25 years, it is still perfectly straight and plays great. He ran a shaft through his fingers and asked, “you haven’t sanded these shafts, have you?” When I said that I hadn’t, he thanked me. 
