I'm looking for a stiff hit with some good feedback for a 3/8x10 pin. Maybe something somewhere in between the hit of maple threads and phenolic threads. I thought purpleheart would hold up better than maple...anyone have any input? Thanks
Thoughts on purpleheart insert for shaft threads?
- Thread starter TwoRailDave
- Start date
I have found that purple heart doesn't thread well. It is splintery if that makes sense. I have some Lignum vitae that I think would be a great insert wood.
If you've never attempted threading PH you should try it.
If you're having trouble threading maple and making those threads last, good luck.
Maple is one of the easiest woods to thread. There are cues over a 100 years old with good solid maple threads.
The other thing I contest is how an insert in a shaft will make the difference in the way a cue will (feel/hit)?
You can use PH, quite a few cue makers do, but as stated it's brittle, so it doesn't lend it's well to tapping, Radial is a slight exception, if you live thread it's less of an issue. But why not choose a wood species that lends itself to the task? Maple is pretty perfect, but if you want to use a denser wood, check out Katalox.
There were some old block letter Joss shafts made of lignum vitae.
I have seen pictures be never handled one. That has made me curious about this wood and I rarely see it mentioned.
It isn't the most decorative or attractive wood, I have a few partial logs and have been trying to think up a cue that would take advantage of its green tones. As well as a complimentary wood.
Skip Weson use to use it in his re-milled points when he wanted the green veneer look
Wood for inserts is ok, but phenolic is pretty tough to beat especially based on longevity
Figure out how to cut threads as such and they will last longer than you ever will without the additional work of adding an insert for big pin cues.
Happy 4th of July!
Happy 4th of July!
Are you treating the wood before cutting, or is this just raw maple?
Nothing but the finest pure, raw UP Michigan maple!
When I first started cutting my threads with live tooling I would do a test piece from a maple off cut. I would then cut it in half to inspect the threads and check the fit around the pin. With good tooling and not cutting it all out in one pass you can achieve a pretty clean result. What I found about wood threads though is they get tighter and looser depending on the season. Phenolic inserts are not as elegant, but they seem to maintain size better.
Once I get my numbers I've had the best results cutting them in one pass.
I also have a cutter that matches my pin profile.
I know the debate has raged about location on the minor diameter of the pin for mechanical purposes but it has worked very well for me for many years.
I cut them snug on the pin and saturate the inside of the threads with a paste wax made for wood products.
This seems to help alleviate most of the size problem.
If you're using metal pins, they'll burnish in around the pin for a nice snug fit the majority of the season.
G-10 is abrasive and will open the female up even with the wax.
I also have a cutter that matches my pin profile.
I know the debate has raged about location on the minor diameter of the pin for mechanical purposes but it has worked very well for me for many years.
I cut them snug on the pin and saturate the inside of the threads with a paste wax made for wood products.
This seems to help alleviate most of the size problem.
If you're using metal pins, they'll burnish in around the pin for a nice snug fit the majority of the season.
G-10 is abrasive and will open the female up even with the wax.
Many varieties of phenolic, I prefer canvas based for inserts. Quite robust but not as hard as fiberglass based phenolic or G10.
I was suggesting for the pin not an insert.
I prefer XX/paper on my torrified maple shafts.
Canvas is rough on the radial taps and live threader.
Canvas is good for one-piece ferrule tip breaker and collars and caps though.
Just like any material now, you also have to pick the best pieces if possible. Not all phenolics are the same..I find garolite and ebay pieces hit and miss.
Regular maple don't really need inserts for big pins unless you use G10 imo.
G10 eats woods as mentioned by DB.
If i need a light screw, I use titanium.
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