Threading a tenon!!!!

CroweCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If i am using a threaded ferrule, do i need to use a threaded tenon? i have read that some of you just just glue slots in the tenon, would the threads in the ferrule act like the same thing? Or would it be a good idea to cut the glue slots anyways?
 
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Make a Delrin mock up.
Not all ferrules are the same .
Try not to get into habit of getting spoonfed.
It takes a few minutes to make those jigs.
 
Somewhere in the range of 0.275 - 0.283.

You'll have to experiment some to see what works for you.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
Somewhere in the range of 0.275 - 0.283.

You'll have to experiment some to see what works for you.

My 2 cents,

Gary

Not that small when you grind it.
That's why spoon feeding is bad.
Let him make jigs.
 
Not that small when you grind it.
That's why spoon feeding is bad.
Let him make jigs.

you know what, i had a simple question because i thought i was posting in the ask the cue maker section, not the lets be an ass section. i was trying to practice and write down some numbers. so thanks

the idea was to see what was working best for the guys that had been doing it for years. why use their numbers? BECAUSE IT HAS WORKED FOR YEARS!!!! i could have came up with a number, but hey my idea may not have worked and would have ended up on here asking for the advise anyways.

if you dont have an answer to my question, or a smart ass one, then please dont bother. im trying to pick up tips and ideas that are known to work, not ones that will lead me to fail right from the start.
 
you know what, i had a simple question because i thought i was posting in the ask the cue maker section, not the lets be an ass section. i was trying to practice and write down some numbers. so thanks

the idea was to see what was working best for the guys that had been doing it for years. why use their numbers? BECAUSE IT HAS WORKED FOR YEARS!!!! i could have came up with a number, but hey my idea may not have worked and would have ended up on here asking for the advise anyways.

if you dont have an answer to my question, or a smart ass one, then please dont bother. im trying to pick up tips and ideas that are known to work, not ones that will lead me to fail right from the start.
If you think making cheap plastic jigs so you can size EVERY
pre-made ferrule is a failure, you need to quit now.
 
actually, i understood what he means by making the jig. everything has a tol. +/-. by making a jig for my tenon threader, i would have the answer to my original question. as for the threads that are on the ferrule, that is a diff story.

NOW TO ADD TO MY ORIGINAL QUESTION.......

I have read that some of you guys dont thread the tenon at all and just cut glue slots in the tenon. If i am using a threaded ferrule (if that is all i have) would the threads act like the glue slots instead of having to cut them into the tenon? or would it be good idea to cut them anyways?
 
Hey they are trying to help you do what's best for you in the long run. Just say Thank you and shut up.
 
Threading

you know what, i had a simple question because i thought i was posting in the ask the cue maker section, not the lets be an ass section. i was trying to practice and write down some numbers. so thanks

the idea was to see what was working best for the guys that had been doing it for years. why use their numbers? BECAUSE IT HAS WORKED FOR YEARS!!!! i could have came up with a number, but hey my idea may not have worked and would have ended up on here asking for the advise anyways.

if you dont have an answer to my question, or a smart ass one, then please dont bother. im trying to pick up tips and ideas that are known to work, not ones that will lead me to fail right from the start.

Gary gave you the answer in the post above. You still have to experiment because different dies will give different results. Of course, the RIGHT, way is to machine the threads with live tooling. I assume you want what can't be seen to look as nice as what can be seen--the mark of a true craftsman.
 
If i am using a threaded ferrule, do i need to use a threaded tenon? i have read that some of you just just glue slots in the tenon, would the threads in the ferrule act like the same thing? Or would it be a good idea to cut the glue slots anyways?

Thread the tenon, will you?
You already have a live threader you said and you're set to go.

Only hacks hammer in threaded ferrules on an un-threaded tenon.
 
If i am using a threaded ferrule, do i need to use a threaded tenon? i have read that some of you just just glue slots in the tenon, would the threads in the ferrule act like the same thing? Or would it be a good idea to cut the glue slots anyways?

If you have a threaded ferrule.... put it on a threaded tenon. Get a 5/16-18 tenon threader.

If you have a tenon that is not threaded, you need to get ferrule material and drill it to slip on the tenon. Most are 5/16 but Meucci are about .370.... I always turn Meucci tenons to 5/16 to make the ferrule thicker because they the side wall is too thin and they crack.

Don't mix threaded and non threaded.

Kim
 
thanks kim, will do. figured i would ask and see if the concept worked both ways....

I must have made joey mad today lol
 
Actually, Joey was right - I told you too small. I was working from memory - which is not as good as it once was - but today, I used my tenon threader (compression die) and the better answer would have been in the range of 0.280in. - 0.300in.
Tenon threaders are compression dies, not cutting dies like you would use on metal, so they basically compress the threads into the wood and don't do much cutting - at least that is the case with mine.
I sometimes use a regular 5/16-18 metal (cutting) die. After I form the threads with my compression die, I sometimes follow up with the cutting die. You have to be careful not to cross-thread, but it will cut your minor diameter a little cleaner as well as give a cleaner thread form.
Hope this helps,
Gary
 
you know what, i had a simple question because i thought i was posting in the ask the cue maker section, not the lets be an ass section. i was trying to practice and write down some numbers. so thanks

the idea was to see what was working best for the guys that had been doing it for years. why use their numbers? BECAUSE IT HAS WORKED FOR YEARS!!!! i could have came up with a number, but hey my idea may not have worked and would have ended up on here asking for the advise anyways.

if you dont have an answer to my question, or a smart ass one, then please dont bother. im trying to pick up tips and ideas that are known to work, not ones that will lead me to fail right from the start.

The more of your posts that I read in this thread, the more I see why you were/are given the responses you've received.
If you have any hopes of making it this business you need at least two qualities: common sense and
a basic understanding of mechanical applications. Mechanics doesn't always apply to metal.

Granted, this is the 'Ask the Cuemaker' section and most of us have been helping newbies for years.
The only problem with asking the questions you have is that you obviously have put forth zero effort
on your own to find an answer other than tickling your keyboard. You want to be spoon-fed all the answers.
We don't do that.

You want the numbers that others use with the reasoning that they already work.
Maybe they do and maybe they don't. You'll never know until you do the work for yourself.
What have you learned by using someone elses numbers? They're meaningless until you know WHY.

So, you have a threaded ferrule; too bad because I don't like them but that's just me.
Have you considered removing the threads by boring the ferrule to at least .3125" (5/16")?
Your question about threading the tenon suddenly goes away.
A threaded tenon has a minor diameter which is now the weakest section of the tenon.
Common sense based on mechanical applications.

Tenon diameter has been in an evolution state for years.
I've seen .250", .283", .3125" .354" .375"and Predator's .398". Which one do you want to claim as your own and WHY?
The answers that you find so negative were given for a reason.

KJ
 
With self-aligning tenon threaders only costing about $40 I can't see any reason to slip on a threaded ferrule. Your theory of it holding glue like the tenon grooves would be accurate and you might get by with it. But why just get by when threading has proven to be much superior to slip on as far as holding power goes? It only takes a few seconds to thread the tenon, so I feel the $40 initial investment and a few seconds of time is well worth the investment in time and money.
As far as live threading of ferrules go, I found it to slow me down, so I still use the same $40 tenon threaders that I sell on all my ferrule jobs.
 
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