tightened gold crown

[dendweller]

And when a ball was hit into the point of a pocket it died right there on the spot, but still better than a stock Olhausen right?

that olhausen had a split personality, from out front the corners were really pretty big, down the rail they were really frustrating. Otherwise it wasn't a bad table outside of the nail in pockets

 

[rexus31]

Big difference between 4 1/8" corner pockets when compared to 4 1/2" corner pockets, they should play harder, they offer a smaller opening. And while the 141 miter angles you have, that makes the throat of the pocket tighter, the 15 degree down angle reduces the pocket rattle more than the 13 degree down angle does.

140 miter, and 13 down angle should be the specs on your pockets, with 102 miter angle and 13 down on the sides

I think that's what Steve did. I might be wrong on the 15 degree down angle.

 

[bignick31985]

I
If you can line up 4 balls against the long side rails, and shoot that combination at break speed, pocketing the first ball in that combo, then anytime playing in a game, if you miss pocketing a ball, the miss has zero % to do with the pocket geometry, and 100% to do with the shooter!!

Setup shooting the combo past the side pocket? Just curious as I'd like to try.

Nevermind, appears on YouTube it's setup in front of the side pocket, not shooting past the side pocket.

 

[realkingcobra]

Setup shooting the combo past the side pocket? Just curious as I'd like to try.

Nevermind, appears on YouTube it's setup in front of the side pocket, not shooting past the side pocket.

No, shoot it from the end side rails past the side pockets

 

[realkingcobra]

I think that's what Steve did. I might be wrong on the 15 degree down angle.

For deeper shelf pockets, you want to increase the down angle as to help take the speed out of the ball hitting against the pocket facing, the down angle directs the speed of the object ball downward, so that by absorbing some of that pocket speed, it also helps direct the object balls deeper into the throat of the pockets making the balls go in rather than across the pocket to wobble back and forth, then sit right there in the pocket. Steve knows a 15 vs 13 or even a 12 degree down angle is going to make the pockets play even bigger than they are, so he knows 13 down makes the pockets play a little harder on a GC because of their shorter shelfs compared to Diamonds deeper shelfs.

 

[Black-Balled]

I now have just a 50 duro 3/8 facing which gives me exactly 4.5 inch pockets. Leaves me a little less than 1.25 inch shelve. I'm wondering if different versions of gold crown have different pocket cutouts in the slate because people have said they have more of a shelve with gc2s. Mine's a 4.

Anyway, I kind of made my table easier instead of more challenging, king of ironic. Don't know how much has to do with new cloth sliding the ball in but stuff I'm waiting to rattle ain't rattling.

Might also have to do with the way the table was set up initially, had 2 8th inch facings but they weren't parallel to the front of the rails, they were sloped back. I think it caused a couple things, one, more of a tendency to reject a ball with a rattle because of the angle of the slope. Two, when you hit a point you were hitting rail, not facing. They played pretty good, wish I didn't mess with it.

I played on rkc/ m. Gregory tables that were notably tighter than stock gcs and were easier than some stock gcs.

As you said, the inner profiles of the pocket play a MAJOR role in toughness and I am pretty sure the hacks who glue cushions cut them with only minor attention to angles.

 

[bignick31985]

I can say mine is well broken in (1.5 year old cloth, feels like thousands of nine ball/ten ball games, hundreds of one pocket games) and if you don't hit it good, it ain't going. Softly hit down the rail may wobble in from a very shallow angle a diamond out but any firm shot needs to be hit well.

If you're hitting them good you know it.

I feel it plays about as tough as a broken in Diamond.