Timken taper bearing Taig spindle

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is a picture of my ER40 Taig spindle that has a Timken taper front bearing and an aircon clutch bearing in the rear, preloaded by double wavy washers.
The spindle is like a cartridge so is all inside a steel housing assembly.
The through hole in the spindle is 31mm, does not have the facility to add a rear chuck. I have found it to be just as easy to use a steady either side if needed.

Not for sale but have sketches if anyone wants to make one.
So far the runout with pieces in collet, are about 0.01mm to 0.02mm depending on collet orientation and test bar roundness. So less than a thou on the few things I have done with it.

Neil
 

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I need something like this so I don't have to constantly indicate my center in all the time. I agree this is a beautiful engineering job.

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk
 
Neil has been sending me picture updates on the progress of this project all along and I must say I am very impressed with his machining and design skills.
 
Neil has been sending me picture updates on the progress of this project all along and I must say I am very impressed with his machining and design skills.

Chris, will you be offering these at any time?
 
Chris, will you be offering these at any time?

I don't think so. That is Neil's project. I am unsure about using ER40 collets for much cue work. The ER40 collets would be great for metal work, but having to put another collet inside an ER40 collet to protect the wood from the ER40 collet would defeat purpose the super precision the ER40 collets provides. That is my thought. It would then only be as accurate as your delrin collet and would provide little benefit over a steady rest with a bearing in it. But for metal work it would be super nice. Also for making precision plastic parts for cues it would be great. But for working on the wood part of the cue I have not been able to wrap my head around it. And I think most are looking for zero run out when working on the joint part and ferrule of the cue. So I don't think the ER40 collets are the answer for that. I don't know what you call the pins inside the ER40 that could dent the wood, but Neil can probably explain what I am trying to say much better than I could.
 
I don't think so. That is Neil's project. I am unsure about using ER40 collets for much cue work. The ER40 collets would be great for metal work, but having to put another collet inside an ER40 collet to protect the wood from the ER40 collet would defeat purpose the super precision the ER40 collets provides. That is my thought. It would then only be as accurate as your delrin collet and would provide little benefit over a steady rest with a bearing in it. But for metal work it would be super nice. Also for making precision plastic parts for cues it would be great. But for working on the wood part of the cue I have not been able to wrap my head around it. And I think most are looking for zero run out when working on the joint part and ferrule of the cue. So I don't think the ER40 collets are the answer for that. I don't know what you call the pins inside the ER40 that could dent the wood, but Neil can probably explain what I am trying to say much better than I could.

Chris is right, you will not get zero with this setup, and for many reasons.
1st off I did not use a spindle class concentric bearing, ( they cost around 500 and up), I used a regular 40x68x19, runout with this bearing is about .01mm, slightly less, the ER40 collets are only good to about .01mm unless you buy their precision series, then it is about .005mm or so.But the total roundness is a little less than .01mm. But spindle class bearings, will bring that down to less than a micron with a class 00 bearing.
I find with delrin sleeves, they can be made very concentric especially if you ruf them out 1st then do the finish passes.
What I do like with the ER system, is I can easily make a collet from a piece of 41mm delrin and part it off, or make a blank, and then finally bore it in situation in the spindle.
Using the bearing type collet nuts, increase the precision as the collet does not rotate when the nut is tightened. So a mark can be placed on the spindle( identify one of the tightening holes) and the collet always positioned in the same radial position. The bearing collets cost more, but are really worth it. I buy the Regofix brand collets and nuts, they were the inventors of the ER system.I have a mix of both the one piece nuts and the bearing nuts.
For me, the small amount of error that it has, is not that significant when compared to the ease of use and ease to make special sized collets. The tapers are 8 deg per side for the spindle taper, and 30 deg per side for the front taper.
My set up, does not have any alignment pins in the spindle at all, unlike R8 or 5c collets.
All the tests I have done to date, the most runout I have seen has been 0.02mm on the DTI (TIR), the least has been .008mm TIR
Of course, the rigidity means you could use conventional 3 or 4 jaw chucks instead of the ER40 system.
Neil
 
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I was looking at the Big site , as they make some of the most accurate collets available.
Hind site says I should have done this 6 months ago and at least brought their collet nuts, and then made my spindles to suite. It is interesting the changes they have made to the regular ER system.
I was thinking this to be a good source of collets to those with spindles that want the least possible run out.
I do not know the price, but if you are serious about precision, it will pay for itself in the results and the longer cutting life from the concentricity.
At work we saw substantial cutter life increase from using regular collets to the shrink fit system. But these new Big series of ER collets are just as accurate as the shrink system.
Here is a pdf link to those interested.

http://www.bigkaiser.com/pdfs/BIG Daishowa Mega ER Grip.pdf

Updated the spindle to Angular contact bearing from the Timken bearing for better concentricity without buying a spindle class bearing.
 

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Old thread, but would ER style collets mar shafts?
Yes if you use Steel collets. I either use my own made Delrin collets, or else I use a piece of plastic shim between the collet and the wood.
Steel collets can not be used directly on shafts as the shafts rarely have any
area that is parallel.
So I use the 30mm collet the most with Delrin sleeves. If the sleeve/bush is short, then I put a 30mm steel ring in the back edge of the collet to help it stay closing parallel onto the work piece.
The only time something does not run within 0.001 inch tir is when the work piece is not round or some other lobed shape.
I am very happy with it.
Neil
 
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