Tip glue help

Facundus Cues

Facundus Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have read a bunch and done quite a few tips in my days but I have one that has been kicking my butt. Customer has a joss cue not sure if the ferrule is the original but he brought it to me with the tip halfway popped off for a tip. I put an elk master on using gorilla ca gel an with a centering jig in my tail stock . I press it on and leave it for about 5 minutes, tip came off next day so I tried another using loctite ultra control gel same issue. Then we tried an ultraskin same thing again. I am singing the tips facing the ferrules and I usually do not score the back but I tried that too. The tips after they pop off look like the majority of the tips is covered in glue and very little on the ferrule. Almost like the glue is not adhering to the ferrule. I am at wits end and told the guy I would put him a different ferrule on and try that I do not know what else to do. Any advice will be greatly appreciated
 
I use Loctite 401 and it works very well. Just make sure that the glue is still fresh and let it set for some 10-15 minutes atleast before working on it. Hopefully you'll find a solution, problems like this are sometimes a massive pita :(
 
I have had that problem with some cheap Asian import cues. NOthing seems to stick, but then you have to wonder what did the manufacturer use because the original tip stayed on for a long time. No one seems to know.

In this case, make sure you sand the back flat and there is no gap anywhere between the tip face and the ferrule. I'm sure you do, but had to say it.

Also, pre-glue the face of the ferrule with a thin coating of CA, same for the tip. Let the pre-coats dry for 5 minutes, then glue up as normal.

Hope this helps,
Gary
 
GBCues said:
I have had that problem with some cheap Asian import cues. NOthing seems to stick, but then you have to wonder what did the manufacturer use because the original tip stayed on for a long time. No one seems to know.

In this case, make sure you sand the back flat and there is no gap anywhere between the tip face and the ferrule. I'm sure you do, but had to say it.

Also, pre-glue the face of the ferrule with a thin coating of CA, same for the tip. Let the pre-coats dry for 5 minutes, then glue up as normal.

Hope this helps,
Gary
Click to expand...

I have seen that same thing......... I just bite the bullet and change the ferrule..........................

also sand the tip, put on a puddle of thin CA.......... let it sit for 10 to 20 sec........ dab off the excess with a paper towel.......... hit it with CA kicker......... lightly scuff it .................. put it on with CA gel............


Kim
 
Tips

Personally I think most of the super control gels are about the same.
When you have a issue with a tip falling off a cue it doesn't seem to make any difference what glue you use .

Straight up for years and years rubber cement was used.................

I have to agree that almost all the cues coming in from china have a soft ferrule or a ferrule the super glues doesn't stick to good to.

Any more I am putting a carbon fiber pad under every tip I install now.
So far I haven't had one failure.

I am using Ultra gel control by Loctite or 2 ton slow drying epoxy by Devcon.
 
What's the "bad" ferrule material, anyway? Is it something like Delrin? (just a guess for a cheap, somewhat stiff plastic that doesn't take CA well). I happen to have a bit of experience gluing these finicky plastics. Loctite 770 primer can sometimes do wonders on these "low surface energy" plastics. Basically what happens is the glue doesn't flow out and just forms a skin over the plastic, very similar to water beading up on a freshly waxed car. The primer allows the glue to wet the surface, like adding flux to solder.

Anyhow, I'm more just babbling a bit here and not in any position to give any advice. I'm really just curious if anyone happens to know what the material is.
 
john coloccia said:
What's the "bad" ferrule material, anyway? Is it something like Delrin? (just a guess for a cheap, somewhat stiff plastic that doesn't take CA well). I happen to have a bit of experience gluing these finicky plastics. Loctite 770 primer can sometimes do wonders on these "low surface energy" plastics. Basically what happens is the glue doesn't flow out and just forms a skin over the plastic, very similar to water beading up on a freshly waxed car. The primer allows the glue to wet the surface, like adding flux to solder.

Anyhow, I'm more just babbling a bit here and not in any position to give any advice. I'm really just curious if anyone happens to know what the material is.
Click to expand...

I'm quite sure it's not Delrin, but the material in those ferrules seems to behave in much the same way as Delrin/Acetal.
The 770 primer works great, I have used it on several occations.
My glue of choice is Loctite 401.
 
John,
The material is not delrin but has an almost waxy feel to it.

Wishing I knew what glue they used at the factory also.

Alan

Phelps Custom Cues
 
Thanks for all of the tips about tips. I ended up coating back of the tip first and then gluing but with a little less pressure. So far so good . I did notice that when I first tried this shaft that there was a waxy residue on sides of the ferrules and I asked the customer and he said that he had never put anything on it. After facing and cleaning it did not seem waxy anymore. Maybe something leaching out over a period of time though
 
I'm glad this subject came up because I, too, have been experiencing an unusual amount of tip failures lately.

In 24 years of installing tips, I have had only 10 reported failures, 8 of which have happened in the last year. To me, the recent failures are a concern, so I started paying close attention to the types of ferrules and tips that were giving me problems.

Of the 8 failures, most of the ferrules were on imported cues. But that's not to say that they were all cheap cues. Half of them were original ferrules on high-dollar, low-deflection shafts.

Two of the tips were G-10's being used on break cues, which is a combination that can present understandable problems all its own.

The other six failures were all bare-backed Black Kamui's of various hardnesses. I talked with the people at Kamui about this the other day and they offered a few suggestions on glues and techniques that work best with their tips.

So, I'm feeling about the same as most of you here in that I suspect the materials used in today's ferrules might be a major contributor to the problem of tips popping off prematurely. I guess we'll eventually find out for sure.

In the meantime, I don't like the idea of having to stock different glues and use different techniques for all of the different ferrules and tips out there.


Roger
 
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