Tip Glue

Kevin Lindstrom

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Silver Member
I know this question has been asked at least a 100 times but I can't find info on it when I do a search for tip glue. Anyhow I was wondering what is the best glue to use for tip replacement. Also do you use different glues for different types of tips and/or different ferrule materials. Thanks for any help or provided links on the subject.
Kevin
 
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I use to use duro gel, and It worked fine, but with all the talk of them changing where it's made, and not being what it once was, I have changed.
Now I actually use both loctite pro, and loctite gel. I sand the tip, and put a drop of the pro in the middle and coat the glue side of it. Then let It dry & sand It flat again, this leaves a good clean glueing surface. (I can't take credit for that, and believe it was Mr. Searing the was kind enough to share that info here one time, so that may have been where I got the idea from) Anyway, It does indeed seem to work very well, and when I actually glue the tip on the ferrule I use the gel for that. So far so good:) . Alot of people like the 454 though, and I hear it works very well also.

Greg
 
> I use 2 different glues,Satellite City Hot Stuff,applying a thin layer,wiping it,then lightly sanding on a 400 grit lapping plate I made,then I use the Special T for applying the tip. I got the idea for the thin layer of thin glue from Murray's video he posted here,and it makes sense. After all,if you took 2 pieces of glass and glued them together it would take dynamite to seperate them. Since I started this method,it even takes more effort to take my old tips off. I had a customer ask me to install a LePro,then come back a few days later and wanted a Moori soft. I tried to take the LePro off with a pair of pliers and it came apart before the glue bond did. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> I use 2 different glues,Satellite City Hot Stuff,applying a thin layer,wiping it,then lightly sanding on a 400 grit lapping plate I made,then I use the Special T for applying the tip. I got the idea for the thin layer of thin glue from Murray's video he posted here,and it makes sense. After all,if you took 2 pieces of glass and glued them together it would take dynamite to seperate them. Since I started this method,it even takes more effort to take my old tips off. I had a customer ask me to install a LePro,then come back a few days later and wanted a Moori soft. I tried to take the LePro off with a pair of pliers and it came apart before the glue bond did. Tommy D.

Do you still have a copy of that Video?
 
Overkill?

Cue Crazy said:
I use to use duro gel, and It worked fine, but with all the talk of them changing where it's made, and not being what it once was, I have changed.
Now I actually use both loctite pro, and loctite gel. I sand the tip, and put a drop of the pro in the middle and coat the glue side of it. Then let It dry & sand It flat again, this leaves a good clean glueing surface. (I can't take credit for that, and believe it was Mr. Searing the was kind enough to share that info here one time, so that may have been where I got the idea from) Anyway, It does indeed seem to work very well, and when I actually glue the tip on the ferrule I use the gel for that. So far so good:) . Alot of people like the 454 though, and I hear it works very well also.

Greg

Hello Greg,

I have read many of your posts and have found them helpful. I am curious though, why there is a need to use the process you described above if the glue is what you have found to be the best or at least adequate.

Were you experiencing an unusual amount of pop-offs?

Please do not take this any other way than it was meant. I am simply curious as to why you felt the need to change to the more time consuming system.:( (Note: I realize it doesn't take much more time, but more time non-the-less.) Thanks for your time.

Gene
 
Cuedog said:
Hello Greg,

I have read many of your posts and have found them helpful. I am curious though, why there is a need to use the process you described above if the glue is what you have found to be the best or at least adequate.

Were you experiencing an unusual amount of pop-offs?

Please do not take this any other way than it was meant. I am simply curious as to why you felt the need to change to the more time consuming system.:( (Note: I realize it doesn't take much more time, but more time non-the-less.) Thanks for your time.

Gene
The theory on that is glue sticks to glue better than it sticks to leather.
Plus you flatten the bottom of that tip.
The best tip glue is Loctite 454, flat out.
I had some popouts with Loctite Super Glue gel but none with 454.
Somehow though, Loctite Super Glue gel works better with phenolic tips.
 
Cuedog said:
Hello Greg,

I have read many of your posts and have found them helpful. I am curious though, why there is a need to use the process you described above if the glue is what you have found to be the best or at least adequate.

Were you experiencing an unusual amount of pop-offs?

Please do not take this any other way than it was meant. I am simply curious as to why you felt the need to change to the more time consuming system.:( (Note: I realize it doesn't take much more time, but more time non-the-less.) Thanks for your time.

Gene


Hey Gene, no offense taken, how would we learn new things If we did not ask questions & experiement.:)
I've used the loctite gel before, and aggree with what Joey said. I use to use the duro gel simply because It seemed to be best suited for the application at the time, and held up better, so the method I use with the loctite is just alittle extra insurance, from past experiences. Since then I have changed, no pop offs at all, but then again the only ones I had pop off with the duro were house cues, and that's just the nature of those anyway, as people are really hard on them, they will play with them without tips even:rolleyes: , I have to fix the ferrules on just about every house cue I retip, because people continued to use them, even though there was probably 100 other cues on the walls they could use. Anyway, I had no issues with the duro, but getting harder to find here locally, and after reading previous statements of them changing where it's manufactured & quality issues, I saw the change on the tubes I was getting also, I then went to this method, so that the brand of glue I use is not as much of an issue.

As Joey mentioned they sand & level out alot nicer, so less rocking can take place, as well as creates a better glueing surface IMO. Also, When I drop the glue on the back side I can also watch the tip's fibres slightly soaking the glue in, so I know there is a good bond between It and the tip it'self. The trick is to use thin glue for that part, as It penatrates the fibres easier then a gel would.

Why I go through all that, and not just buy the 454? Who knows, guess It just works for me. We all have our own little clicks, and I do many things that other guys may think is a waste of time, visa-versa, but They usually give us our own piece of mind, so I guess that's the best answer I can give. The fact is sometimes even a properly prepared tip can ocasionally pop off under certain conditions, so this is just more POM for me. A customer having a tip pop off they're personal cue is an inconvience for them, as well as extra work for the repair guy that he does not get paid for anyway, so why not nip It it in the rear from the begining, and save us both the extra trouble. I'll do 5-6 tips like that ahead of time, and as I am retipping I'll just pick one up to use. Does'nt seem like as much extra work or wasted time that way.

To be honest I have heard the 454 is really good for a long time now, so have wanted to try It, but everytime I place an order for more materials I forget to add a tube of It to try out.

I am though also happy with the method I'm using now. Kind of long response here, but Hope I answered all your questions correctly somewhere in there:p . I guess It just boils down to piece of mind for me as I mentioned.

Greg
 
To be honest I have heard the 454 is really good for a long time now, so have wanted to try It, but everytime I place an order for more materials I forget to add a tube of It to try out.



It's so damn expensive. I wished it were a little cheaper.
 
JoeyInCali said:
The theory on that is glue sticks to glue better than it sticks to leather.
Plus you flatten the bottom of that tip.
The best tip glue is Loctite 454, flat out.
I had some popouts with Loctite Super Glue gel but none with 454.
Somehow though, Loctite Super Glue gel works better with phenolic tips.

I have to agree that the 454 is the best all around tip glue I've ever used. It's got a fairly short pot life and is expensive but is certanly worth those drawbacks if you do many tips and can't afford to get a reputation of your tips coming off.

There is one room here that has the cheaper cue-tecs as house cues and I was having trouble keeping tips on their ferrules using 454. At the time I aked on this forum if others were having the same problems and the consenses was no but I was getting about a 10% failure rate before the tip was wore out. On hard ferrules such as Aegis, Melamine and phonolic etc. I have less than a 1% failure rate.

Dick
 
454

It is expensive, and the shelf life would be a concern of mine. How long does It hold up for anyway, before you have to toss It? The duro was cheap enough that I could just bust out a fresh tube or 2 when doing a tipping session.

Dick, On the ferrules types, I tip most of those type ferrules, and altough it has happened, on personal cues of customers I rarely have one come off either, but house cues are another story, and always seem to have a small percentage that do pop off not matter what method I use. I have'nt had any house cues pop off since I started using this method, but suspect that it will still ocasionally take place due to the abuse they take.


Greg
 
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I think I can chime in about the house cues. My shop is inside the Tulsa Billiard Palace, and I maintain about 200 of those Cuetec house cues with the plastic ferrules. Very irritating. I talked to a guy at 3M one time about adhesion problems, and he led me to a trick that has worked very well with the plastic ferrules, and since then have started using it on all tip jobs. It involves using accelerator. After several different products were tried, I have landed on the NCF Quick, made by Sattelite City (same company that makes the Hot Stuff glues), along with Loctite 454. He actually recommended the Loctite 454 because of it's surface insensitive abilities.

I sand the glue side of the tip, apply 454 to the tip, then holding the tip ready to go in one hand, I use the other hand to spray NCF Quick Hot Accelerator onto the ferrule, just before pressing the tip onto the ferrule. This has to be done quickly, but with practice and the right amount of glue (not too much), the glue kind of "cooks" on. When the glue is fresh, it sizzles and smokes and gets rock hard. I don't think I have had a single popoff, that I know of, in 4 months of doing this, with the exception of phenolic tips once or twice. Leather has never popped off on me using this method.

Another thing that is cool about this method is that I can tip a cue in 2 minutes, literally, and the customer can play with it immediately. Naturally, house don't take as much time doing this either, since I am not waiting on drying time.

The NCF Quick will cost about $10 a can, but well worth it in my opinion. Heck, even counting the 454 at $5 a tube, and the NCF at $10 a can, it still doesn't even cost me $1 to put on a tip.

I get the NCF from the WoodCraft store here locally. If you can't find the NCF, just let me know. I use it for other things (CA finishing, etc) and have bulk amounts on hand at any time and can gladly ship you some.
 
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