Tip glue?

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I generally use the regular gel control for tip installs ... I imagine that either one would be fine since the regular gel control seems to be adequate.


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I haven't turned my lathe on in 7 years, and I finally need a new tip....

I used to buy Loctite 454 from the industrial catalogs when I was doing repairs years ago. What are people using today? I have read on the forums over the years about the loctite gels available locally. Is it one of the two below? Or something else?

Thanks.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_556913-69-1399965___?productId=50149270&pl=1&Ntt=loctite

http://www.lowes.com/pd_176218-69-1674437___?productId=4330052&pl=1&Ntt=loctite

Been having good luck with Gorilla Super Glue as well.
 
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I use the second one you posted.

Larry

Thank you very much! The cue you made me just lost a layer on its tip:( I was almost going to mail it to you for a new tip, rather than get the lathe working and do it myself, lol, but want to take it to Derby.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. It was like riding a bike. I had to do it on my work metal lathe as my Hightower is not set up yet from years ago. The sniper I put on is way quieter of a hit than whatever tip Predator had on the 314-2 shaft from the factory. I think it was an everest.

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Thanks for the help everyone. It was like riding a bike. I had to do it on my work metal lathe as my Hightower is not set up yet from years ago. The sniper I put on is way quieter of a hit than whatever tip Predator had on the 314-2 shaft from the factory. I think it was an everest.

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What material are you using instead of a collet.
I use Bob Smith CA (same as I use for pens). Never had a problem.
 
What material are you using instead of a collet.
I use Bob Smith CA (same as I use for pens). Never had a problem.

I normally use collets I made years ago out of UHMW. But I forgot them at home and wasn't going to drive back once I got into the day job shop to use the lathe there. So this was a scrap of neoprene rubber, .040" thick.

I have used rubber and also leather over the years, in place of a collet. IMO, they are less likely to mar the shaft. However, they do not run as true, even with pushing down on the high spot.

I don't know why, but once in a while my collets would mar the shaft. I made them very carefully with a boring bar, and have a generous radius on all of the edges. Maybe they are too long, and get into the taper of the shaft? They are 1.25" long. IDK... If I make a new set, maybe I'll use teflon this time.
 
I don't know why, but once in a while my collets would mar the shaft.

Same here. Replaced a tip today. I used shaft collets and applied just enough tension/pressure to hold the shaft. Worked out ok. I think I was tightening too much before. I was marring shafts and leaving light scratches on a butt.
 
Not many shafts are dead straight. Most have a slight taper and I make collets with a slight taper. The other option is to use a piece of neoprene or urethane rubber between the shaft and collet. Of late I have been making wood sleeves to go between the standard ER40 collets and shafts. That is working quite good as well. I have a lot of shaft wood that was scrap really , so turned it into various sleeves and plugs.
Neil
 
Not many shafts are dead straight. Most have a slight taper and I make collets with a slight taper. The other option is to use a piece of neoprene or urethane rubber between the shaft and collet. Of late I have been making wood sleeves to go between the standard ER40 collets and shafts. That is working quite good as well. I have a lot of shaft wood that was scrap really , so turned it into various sleeves and plugs.
Neil

How do you like the ER40 setup? I had modified my Midsize Cuesmith to use them a while back. I didn't like it, because the shaft was always "trapped" in the lathe, until whatever I was doing was complete. Since you can't pull it out if anything is bigger than the collet ID. So when doing a ferrule job for example, I would normally remove the shaft for the glue to dry, and work on another shaft while the glue dries. With the collet, I could not do that.
 
How do you like the ER40 setup? I had modified my Midsize Cuesmith to use them a while back. I didn't like it, because the shaft was always "trapped" in the lathe, until whatever I was doing was complete. Since you can't pull it out if anything is bigger than the collet ID. So when doing a ferrule job for example, I would normally remove the shaft for the glue to dry, and work on another shaft while the glue dries. With the collet, I could not do that.

The ID of my collet chuck is 30mm the same size as the largest collet available from Rego-fix. So I have a series of 30mm bushes that can be used with either the ER40 or the 30mm Bearing steady rest.

I have also made an adapter that allows the addition of a 4 jaw /3 jaw self centering Taig chucks as well as an independent 4 jaw chuck. The adapter screws onto the M50X1.5 thread of the ER40 spindle.
 
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