Well now that the beans have been spilled
The method that I have used for 20 years or so, is what Varney and Sheldon described. You will get some with krinkled up lines through them, and when you sand You can still see the line sometimes because It's darker then the rest, sometimes they will be partially domed also, and just not very flat looking on the bottoms. I always tossed those. My favorites use to be the perfectly smooth ones, and It got over the years where there wasn't many at all in a box like that, and that Is'nt even a very good indicator for me anymore. The ones with the slightly pitted looking grain, before sanding, are hit and miss, but I have found that I can't count all of them out either. when i sand them now days i can kind of see how frayed the grain is, and that helps alittle, but the biggest indicator is how well they cut on the lathe for me. If they make it that far, and end up being junk, off they go.
The hammmer trick Like Jim mentioned, I had not used until I believe it was Mike Webb that mentioned it on here one time, but I sometimes do that now days too.
The biggest difference for me recently was getting the 13.5 tips, because alot of times I would need to be just a hair or so over 13MM, and had to go all the way up to 14mm, which was so much cut off that it would go all the way through the tanning. The 13.5MM really helped with that, and I don't have as many wasted tips nows. atleast that's one Of My theories, maybe i just got some better boxes from My other source, not sure, but it helped with the mushy tips I was getting so many of before.
The triangles I heard someone mention having troubles simular to the lepros. I have not encountered this yet, but I do Mine different then most. I have mentioned it before I think when i was testing this method, but since i have been using it, and have had nothing but good reviews from it. What I do is press them in My vice, and heat the edges around the tip with My little butane torch. I try no to burn them up too badly, but just tan them really well, and when I'm done, I can back off the vice right after, and the tip will hold the compressed shape. This means i don't have to use the milk dud method anymore.
As far as prepping the tip, I still do the searing method ocasionally on a moori or something like that, but with alot of tips, including lepro's I have better success not using It now days. I just sand the backs, and slightly hatch mark the ferrule face, and tip face with the tip of My razor. I also quit using My concave center to clamp them while the glue dries, and started using My thumb or finger instead. took some practice getting good at centering them freehand like that before the glue starts kicking, but now I have it down, and center them almost as well as the concave did.
I've had My chances to work tournaments, but I don't work well under the gun at that pace like some guys do, so I turned them down. I do My best work when I can do repair at My own speed, and for that reason I make sure it is common knowledge. Anyway I wouldn't know what best prep methods to use before one of those events, other then what has been discussed before. Wish I had some more usefull advice on that for you Shakes
Greg
