Tip position and cue ball spin at CB/OB impact are two different things!

Tin Man

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I'm going try to fish for some advice. I claim ignorance so if I'm not even asking the right question, what should I be asking?

I feel way more comfortable with stun and draw than follow, similar to @pw98 's friend. To me, I can get really great results with stun, but I know it's holding me back, especially on standard/non slick cloth. I have to shoot much harder than I'd like at times. I'm not in denial but I don't know how to proceed. I watch the guys I play with effortlessly roll the ball around naturally. When I try it, I usually miss my shot but can usually get the leave I want. If I'm playing naturally, in stroke, and not really thinking about it, follow comes more naturally to me. If I'm in a clutch situation, using follow almost always causes me to miss my target, even if the ball is pocketed, it's not where I was aiming in the pocket. If I'm in a clutch situation, I know I can make the ball with stun/draw and might have a harder next shot. Each shot gets progressively more difficult instead of better. 😩

I got real good at stun shots and draw when practicing equal offense/14:1 and playing with real small distances. It hampers me on 9B. I know it and want to fix it.

So... How do I fix this? Is it a matter of drills, just practicing it more, etc? Any recommended drills? Do I just have to start doing it and take my licks until it becomes second nature? I gotta improve and not having a good natural roll on the CB isn't helping me improve at all.

Hey Boogie.

Stop and stun shots are a great way to play cue ball for short distances. In 8 ball, 14.1, equal offense,etc. In those games you get to bend your pattern to your cue ball, so it is a game of playing very accurate position where the cue ball is moving 2"-2'. In rotation you have to bend your cue ball to the required pattern and have to move up and down table, multiple rails, with precision over cue ball speed and direction. When you start expanding the trajectories from you will find that those stun and draw shots that seemed so accurate on a 1' movement start to produce wider scatters when moving the ball 5-10'+. This is particularly true when mixed with flat angles and hard speeds. I am a believer in getting 3/4-full when holding the ball, but striving to get 1/2 ball when looking to move my cue ball, so I can use softer swing speeds. In my opinion a sure sign of an amateur player is someone who is getting flat angles on balls when they need to move their cue ball, then slugging their shots to force whitey around the table. Shudder.

So, what's the trick with a rolling ball? Two suggestions. The first I've already made, don't cue so high to roll the ball. That was one of my main ideas, I think people will do better with just a half tip above center, letting the table develop the roll.

The other is ACCELERATION. See, people shoot more accurately when they use an accelerating swing. My guess is the reason you like to shoot stun/draw shots is because you get to use a confident, accelerating swing. Whereas when you roll the ball you feel like you don't get to go through it the same, leading to a bunty, tentative stroke that doesn't strike with the same accuracy.

Here is the fix: Start the swing softer! If you fill your bathtub all the way to the top, then when you climb in you have water all over the bathroom floor. Similarly with a stroke, if you want room to accelerate you have to leave yourself room. Say on a 1-10 you shoot your preferred stun shots at a speed 5 (the speed you'd shoot the money ball if shape wasn't an issue). You maybe start your swing at speed 3, then let it accelerate to speed 5 with confidence. OK, great. But now you leave yourself a 1/2 ball hit angle where you want to roll the ball at speed 3. If you start your swing at speed 3 you don't leave yourself room to accelerate, and you have to kind of dribble through the cue ball. Or worse, you start to accelerate to a 4-5, then you have to 'hit the breaks' and decelerate through the cue ball to avoid over hitting.

But! Start the cue stick super soft, then let it pick up speed all the way to speed 3. You'll find you can deliver a confident, accelerating swing that is still soft. One way I do this when I compete and have to hit a very soft shot is I'll picture shooting so soft the object ball doesn't reach the pocket. I'll use that speed on my warm up strokes, like I'm just going to send it in front of the pocket where it will hang but not fall. Then when I shoot I just go ahead and add a little to my swing to 'nudge it over the lip'. This forces me to calm the first half of my swing to allow room for the acceleration. When I do this I actually feel like I'm hitting hard, even though I'm hitting soft. Because that feeling doesn't come from cue speed, it comes from acceleration.

Another note, some people find it helps to shorten up their stroke length. With a shorter back stroke and forward stroke you can accelerate quicker without ending up with too much speed.

I am glad you're open to this. Learning to minimize cue power and mastering rolling ball paths will unlock whole new worlds. Keep it up!
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Hey Boogie.

Stop and stun shots are a great way to play cue ball for short distances. In 8 ball, 14.1, equal offense,etc. In those games you get to bend your pattern to your cue ball, so it is a game of playing very accurate position where the cue ball is moving 2"-2'. In rotation you have to bend your cue ball to the required pattern and have to move up and down table, multiple rails, with precision over cue ball speed and direction. When you start expanding the trajectories from you will find that those stun and draw shots that seemed so accurate on a 1' movement start to produce wider scatters when moving the ball 5-10'+. This is particularly true when mixed with flat angles and hard speeds. I am a believer in getting 3/4-full when holding the ball, but striving to get 1/2 ball when looking to move my cue ball, so I can use softer swing speeds. In my opinion a sure sign of an amateur player is someone who is getting flat angles on balls when they need to move their cue ball, then slugging their shots to force whitey around the table. Shudder.
You would definitely get the shudder watching me play! 😅 I do find myself getting damn near straight in and having to force things, as I said, each shot gets tougher than the last. It feels like I'm fighting against the table/cloth most of the time so I'm well overdue for a change.
So, what's the trick with a rolling ball? Two suggestions. The first I've already made, don't cue so high to roll the ball. That was one of my main ideas, I think people will do better with just a half tip above center, letting the table develop the roll.
This intrigues me, it makes perfect sense letting the table develop the roll, I'll work towards doing this.
The other is ACCELERATION. See, people shoot more accurately when they use an accelerating swing. My guess is the reason you like to shoot stun/draw shots is because you get to use a confident, accelerating swing. Whereas when you roll the ball you feel like you don't get to go through it the same, leading to a bunty, tentative stroke that doesn't strike with the same accuracy.

Here is the fix: Start the swing softer! If you fill your bathtub all the way to the top, then when you climb in you have water all over the bathroom floor. Similarly with a stroke, if you want room to accelerate you have to leave yourself room. Say on a 1-10 you shoot your preferred stun shots at a speed 5 (the speed you'd shoot the money ball if shape wasn't an issue). You maybe start your swing at speed 3, then let it accelerate to speed 5 with confidence. OK, great. But now you leave yourself a 1/2 ball hit angle where you want to roll the ball at speed 3. If you start your swing at speed 3 you don't leave yourself room to accelerate, and you have to kind of dribble through the cue ball. Or worse, you start to accelerate to a 4-5, then you have to 'hit the breaks' and decelerate through the cue ball to avoid over hitting.

But! Start the cue stick super soft, then let it pick up speed all the way to speed 3. You'll find you can deliver a confident, accelerating swing that is still soft. One way I do this when I compete and have to hit a very soft shot is I'll picture shooting so soft the object ball doesn't reach the pocket. I'll use that speed on my warm up strokes, like I'm just going to send it in front of the pocket where it will hang but not fall. Then when I shoot I just go ahead and add a little to my swing to 'nudge it over the lip'. This forces me to calm the first half of my swing to allow room for the acceleration. When I do this I actually feel like I'm hitting hard, even though I'm hitting soft. Because that feeling doesn't come from cue speed, it comes from acceleration.

Another note, some people find it helps to shorten up their stroke length. With a shorter back stroke and forward stroke you can accelerate quicker without ending up with too much speed.

I am glad you're open to this. Learning to minimize cue power and mastering rolling ball paths will unlock whole new worlds. Keep it up!
Thanks for the tips, what you say makes a lot of sense. I'll start incorporating it into my game. I'll work on what you said, I think the starting slow and accelerating will be a great help! Follow just always felt odd to me, but your description really helps. Now I have a good basis of how it works. Time to start working with the table/cloth rather than fighting against it! :) Thanks again!
 

The_JV

'AZB_Combat Certified'
Thanks for the tips, what you say makes a lot of sense. I'll start incorporating it into my game. I'll work on what you said, I think the starting slow and accelerating will be a great help! Follow just always felt odd to me, but your description really helps. Now I have a good basis of how it works. Time to start working with the table/cloth rather than fighting against it! :) Thanks again!
Something you may want to also note. The patterns players develop are completely dependant on their style of play. So..., a stun/draw player maps their patterns in a wildly different manner to those predominantly using follow (natural paths). My point is that becoming a proficient player with follow will also require a reset on pattern development. Subsequently you'll learn the 'comfortable angles' when playing those new patterns over time.

Not a short path unfortunately, but well worth the effort imo.
 

BlueRaider

Registered
Great thread as always, and also very relevant for my game. I recently realized I have a huge hole in my "toolbox" for medium (I hesitate to say "slow") rolling balls, especially over a longish distance. I can roll with speed (i.e., going to the end rail and back out), or I can punch-follow to move forward a few inches or so, but when I need to reach a distance that's in between those, my accuracy is atrocious. Definitely something to work on, as those shots come up quite frequently.
 

dendweller

Well-known member
What top does is on angled shots help you to change the angle in combination with speed. Using a parabolic curve coming off of the ball, top can be utilized to bend around other balls that may be obstructing the natural path. A lot of the time, spin can do the same when shots are close to the rail. For example, if a shot right next to the rail requires you to go forward, but you have too much angle, some stun inside will take the ball forward off of the rail.

Jaden
Although I think I've been over doing the top for sure, I see what you're saying, there are times when it's worth the risk
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Great thread as always, and also very relevant for my game. I recently realized I have a huge hole in my "toolbox" for medium (I hesitate to say "slow") rolling balls, especially over a longish distance. I can roll with speed (i.e., going to the end rail and back out), or I can punch-follow to move forward a few inches or so, but when I need to reach a distance that's in between those, my accuracy is atrocious. Definitely something to work on, as those shots come up quite frequently.
Those ball replacement and up to a foot forward are just tuff shots to shoot I think, at least for me. Just when you think you have a handle on it from 18" away everything you knew changes when you shoot it from 24" away.
 

FeelDaShot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Great topic and thread - thanks to all!

Since nobody else has mentioned it, allow me to add a helpful detail: to get instant ”natural roll” on the CB (no sliding or overspin) hit it 2/5 of the distance from its center to its top edge (4/5 of maximum follow, about 1/2” above center).

That’s my go-to hit for any shot that doesn’t specifically need something else - it goes straightest, is easiest to judge speed/distance/carom angle, and produces little throw on cut shots.

pj
chgo

P.S. The same principle (turned on its side and adjusted for cut angle) works for natural “gearing” side spin too.
Dude!!! This is a game changer! I read this earlier today at work and didn’t think much of it until I got home and started hitting balls to experiment. Now my mind is blown. This really simplified shotmaking. Thanks man!!

Do you mind elaborating more on the sidespin gearing aspect? Specifically, what kind of adjustments are you making for cut angle?
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Some interesting points there, but you have failed to account for margin of error.

Yes, one can do that drag draw shot to make cue ball roll forward just a little bit, or one can hit it centre ball much firmer and get the same result.

Drag draw has many subtleties, which combine to leave a lot of potential break-down points.
Interesting you said "break-down points". I use the term breakpoint to denote catastrophic changes in ball dynamics. Same thing I think. IOW, cue adjustment works until it doesn't. Flirting with that zone takes exponentially more learning or the next best thing - what happens to work for you.
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
Dude!!! This is a game changer! I read this earlier today at work and didn’t think much of it until I got home and started hitting balls to experiment. Now my mind is blown. This really simplified shotmaking. Thanks man!!

Do you mind elaborating more on the sidespin gearing aspect? Specifically, what kind of adjustments are you making for cut angle?
The tip offset for instant natural roll is 2/5 the distance from center ball to its top edge, the point opposite it’s contact point with the table.

The tip offset for gearing side spin on an OB or a rail is also 2/5 the distance from the CB’s center to the point opposite it’s contact point with the OB or rail.

The CB’s center is always from the shooter’s perspective, so the point opposite the contact point is different distances from center for different cut/approach angles, which automatically adjusts the 2/5 tip offset.

pj
chgo

P.S. I get no credit for figuring this out - I‘m just repeating what I learned from others. I think I learned this one from Dr. Dave.
 
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dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
This sounds obvious, right? But I'm amazed at how often even strong players don't have this concept clear in their mind and how that translates into mistakes.

During this post I'm going to focus on the vertical axis, from draw to topspin. And to keep it simple let's say there are five levels of spin:

1) Draw. Full zippy backspin.
2) Punch draw. My own word for when the cue ball has just a small amount of backspin and dribbles slowly back a little bit.
3) Slide. Stop/stun type of hit, the cue ball is sliding at impact.
4) Punch follow. My own word for when the cue ball is turning forward but not fully rolling, a 'stun run through' type of hit.
5) Follow. Natural roll.

Due to friction on the table the most energy efficient way for the cue ball to move is to roll. This means that as time passes any trace of backspin wears off and it will develop into a naturally rolling ball. Even if you cue with maximum draw it will still turn into a roll shot given enough time, this is the 'drag draw'. Time across the felt equates to descending down these levels towards roll. It turns out that Time = Distance x Speed, so distance and soft speeds equate to a lot of time across the table which is why it is difficult to draw the ball when shooting from distance or at soft speeds.

Demetrius,

Here's a good illustration of these effects along with how to control them:

 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
The tip offset for instant natural roll is 2/5 the distance from center ball to its top edge, the point opposite it’s contact point with the table.

The tip offset for gearing side spin on an OB or a rail is also 2/5 the distance from the CB’s center to the point opposite it’s contact point with the OB or rail.

The CB’s center is always from the shooter’s perspective, so the point opposite the contact point is different distances from center for different cut/approach angles, which automatically adjusts the 2/5 tip offset.

pj
chgo

P.S. I get no credit for figuring this out - I‘m just repeating what I learned from others. I think I learned this one from Dr. Dave.

If people want to learn more or see illustrations and demonstrations of this and related stuff, check out these resources pages:

 

JazzyJeff87

AzB Plutonium Member
Silver Member
Dr Dave has a video for everything lol. I love it.

The internet is so great sometimes. It has made us almost like a hive mind species with the connectivity. In one spot you can talk to other pool folks from around the world and get their thoughts and knowledge. Still confused? Have a detailed video explaining the topic and showing you real world on a pool table.

Last year I went from never having touched a guitar to playing and singing* together in like a month. Being able to watch someone play the music, zoom in, slow it down, pause and rewind. 24/7 access to the world at large, as long as you’re connected..

Just some random thoughts don’t mind me lol.
 

Tin Man

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Demetrius,

Here's a good illustration of these effects along with how to control them:

Thank you Dave. Best video I've seen on the subject. As always you're in a class of your own. I guess the challenge is most people see this as basic but there are a lot of nuances that they don't appreciate or know how to integrate into their game. I see too many players fail to get full roll when they are shooting firm from near distance, overhit stun shots because they haven't developed a low tip/soft stun, miss trying to get overspin off the tip, and so many other mistakes. I'm glad you provide the answers, maybe me highlighting where people break down in practice is of some help as well.

Can you speak to the idea of overspin off the tip? I posted a link where Mike Page asserted it is effectively impossible to get the cue ball to have more topspin than natural roll until after object ball contact. My current belief is that it is effectively impossible. It may be theoretically possible to get the ball to overspin slightly for an inch or two but that it would be totally impractical in a game scenario. Can you clarify if it is possible and whether it is also practical?

Thank you again Dave. You're a beast.
 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
Thank you Dave. Best video I've seen on the subject. As always you're in a class of your own. I guess the challenge is most people see this as basic but there are a lot of nuances that they don't appreciate or know how to integrate into their game. I see too many players fail to get full roll when they are shooting firm from near distance, overhit stun shots because they haven't developed a low tip/soft stun, miss trying to get overspin off the tip, and so many other mistakes. I'm glad you provide the answers, maybe me highlighting where people break down in practice is of some help as well.

You’re welcome, and thank you. I aim to swerve. 🤓

Can you speak to the idea of overspin off the tip? I posted a link where Mike Page asserted it is effectively impossible to get the cue ball to have more topspin than natural roll until after object ball contact. My current belief is that it is effectively impossible. It may be theoretically possible to get the ball to overspin slightly for an inch or two but that it would be totally impractical in a game scenario. Can you clarify if it is possible and whether it is also practical?

With a level-cue follow shot, overspin is theoretically possible but not useful in a practical sense. For more info, see my article, video, and other resources here:

Enjoy!
 
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