Tip Radius for Draw

RicNic

Registered
What is the best tip radius for draw? I tried a dime and nickel radiuses, but I'm still miscuing. The nickel radius works the best. Can I buy a quarter radius shaper?
 
What is the best tip radius for draw? I tried a dime and nickel radiuses, but I'm still miscuing. The nickel radius works the best. Can I buy a quarter radius shaper?


Either radius works fine, where most people have problems with drawing the ball is one of the following.

Striking the cue ball too low!

Not following through properly.

Poor stroke in general.

To effectual draw the cue ball any distance on a regulation table 4 1/2 by 9 foot, requires you to only go a single cue tip below center using a good smooth stroke that allows follow through a minimum of 3 1/2 to 4 inches.

Let me know if what I have said works for you.
 
To effectual draw the cue ball any distance on a regulation table 4 1/2 by 9 foot, requires you to only go a single cue tip below center using a good smooth stroke that allows follow through a minimum of 3 1/2 to 4 inches.

Don't you think you might be leaving out a few details here?
 
Craig...So if you have to "follow through" a minimum of 3 1/2 to 4", do you get more draw with more followthrough?

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

To effectual draw the cue ball any distance on a regulation table 4 1/2 by 9 foot, requires you to only go a single cue tip below center using a good smooth stroke that allows follow through a minimum of 3 1/2 to 4 inches.
 
You don't need to play with different tip radiuses, either nickel or dime will work just great as per your shaft diameter and preference. If you are miscuing frequently, it's most likely technique related and not tip related.

Many things to consider potentially, and without seeing your stroke or more stroke details hard to diagnose. Contact point, angle of approach(and maintaining that angle), smoothness of stroke are all important factors.

Scott
 
I too was having serious issues trying to get my draw shot to work. I was cueing so far below center that sometimes I was jumping the ball and generally miscueing a lot. Now, when I wasn't miscueing, I was getting ZERO action on the ball 90+% of the time.

I went to my local shooting buddy, Bob Nunley, who also happens to be a BCA Instructor. I told him my problems and he said.....and I quote....."Let's set up the camera and shoot some shots. In 30 minutes you'll be drawing it half the table."

In LESS than 30 minutes I was drawing the ball like I'd never drawn in my life. Turns out I was dropping my elbow a solid foot on draw attempts.

So, in my estimation, I was cueing too low at times because I thought "if I can just hit it low enough it's GOTTA draw back here...." which was causing miscues.

And on the rest of the shots, my elbow was dropping so far down, that the cuetip was coming up WAY above where I intended it to. This caused virtually no action on the cueball.

So, while anything is possible, the issue is probably your technique.

I suggest seeing a qualified instructor who will videotape you.

Now that I know what to look for, I watch EVERYONE in the room shoot. It was an eye-opener. Most people have some serious issue somewhere in their PSR routine, stroke, finish, etc. I always want to say something, but I figure they'll either tell me to go pound sand or they'll take my advice and their game will jump up....which makes it harder on me. :) So, the only person I really say anything to is my best friend, who took the BCA lessons with me. We keep tabs on each other, let's just say.

Disclaimer: I'm not a BCA Instructor, but I have shot in one's basement.
 
I hope its OK for me to add my draw question to this thread....

1st the question: "my draw is improving, but could it still be wrong?"

Had a stop shot, but no real draw. Read on the 'net about chalking, hitting low & level and smooth. That allowed me to get a draw "up to" 2 feet, assuming the balls were not too far apart (1 foot or less).

Due to 14.1 practice, my short stokes/pokes/jabs got better, and the draw is now "up to" 4 feet.

Issue: when I draw now I feel like I'm kinda "snapping" the cue ball with a looser wrist, its a short stroke, maybe a stab?, I "feel" that I'm actually hitting the CB a little higher than before, but I'm hitting down more, meaning my Butt could be up about 6 inches? I'm following thru I think (because it works), but its a short stroke. I dont feel like I'm doing the "long follow thru and perfectly level cue" that I always read about. Am I developing bad habits?

(sorry dont have a video-cam yet)
 
Issue: when I draw now I feel like I'm kinda "snapping" the cue ball with a looser wrist, its a short stroke, maybe a stab?, I "feel" that I'm actually hitting the CB a little higher than before, but I'm hitting down more, meaning my Butt could be up about 6 inches? I'm following thru I think (because it works), but its a short stroke. I dont feel like I'm doing the "long follow thru and perfectly level cue" that I always read about. Am I developing bad habits?
IMO, yes. There are occasions where you have to execute a jab or nip draw shot, but should be very few. You generally should be hitting most of your normal shots, whether they be center, draw, or follow, with a similar type of stroke, only varying where you place the tip on the cue ball and varying the speed of the stroke to control distance.

When I've helped people with their draw shots who insist on snapping their wrist, poking, lifting up, etc., I demonstrate a full table length draw shot by just holding the cue in my hand, no thumb wrapping around at all, so just barely holding on to the cue. Level cue (obviously it's somewhat raised because of the rails), aiming about a tip or a little more below center, and just pull the cue back and smoothly accelerate - if your transition and acceleration forward aren't smooth, the cue should shift in your hand..

When you are close to the OB (say within a foot or two), that's all you need to get 8'+ of draw to get to the other end of the table, as distance between the balls increase then yes you must hit lower and put more speed into it to overcome friction, but when close to the ball anyone should be able to draw back to the other end of the table with a much easier stroke than they usually use. Then the hard part is just learning to be consistent with it and being able to vary the speed to draw back the appropriate distance in a controlled manner.

Scott
 
update on my draw stroke...

a couple months ago I was lucky to draw 2 feet (and half the time got no draw), read a lot and improved a little. Made another breakthrough and this morning I'm at 6 feet, or 3/4 table.

I often read about "smooth, slow, level", etc, but what really helped me was finally realizing I wasnt "accelerating" through the ball (even though I thought I was!). I was actually decelerating the cue at impact. The idea of having a loose (rear) grip helped too (thanks!), because thats the hand that is doing the "decelerating", and if you loosen your grip, you cant decelerate the cue as easy.

Anyway, for me, the key learning word was "accelerate".
Its not "automatic" for me yet, I still have to remind myself, but when I relax and let the acceleration happen, whitey listens ;)
 
Some players do not lower their bridge to match where they want to hit the cue ball. Whether it be high, center or low.

Some players snatch the cue up into the palm of their hand when applying low, with bad results.

When applying low you are working against the friction of the cloth. With clean/polished balls and good cloth drawing a cue ball is not difficult.

One thing that may help with excelleration is to imagine the cue ball is not there and shoot at the OB ball. Its a feel thing.

John
 
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lol nickel, dime............i draw like Stan Lee with a penny radius.......but the radius doesn't matter.
 
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