Tip Size affect playing?

Zphix

Zphix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Title says it all, does tip size affect your game?

Obviously we know that different tip sizes offer different levels (a trade-off) of accuracy vs. spin.

Just asking because I got my shaft turned down from 12.75 to 12mm and I absolutely love the new feel I get when shooting.
 
Your signature says it all: 90% of the game is mental.

I went from 13mm to 12.75mm, finally to 11.75mm. Sure, I notice a difference in how it looks when I'm addressing the CB-OB line, but I don't think there's a measurable difference it how those sizes play.
 
Zphix said:
Title says it all, does tip size affect your game?

Obviously we know that different tip sizes offer different levels (a trade-off) of accuracy vs. spin.

Just asking because I got my shaft turned down from 12.75 to 12mm and I absolutely love the new feel I get when shooting.
Click to expand...

I've been playing with a 12mm for a long time.....with a caromish taper.
....and a tip no flatter than dime-shape.

I find pro taper to be weak and it actually deflects the cue ball too much.

I can get more spin than a politician
 
Smaller tip = less deflection, more accurate contact (you are aiming a thinner object so easier to see) and people do tend to get more spin with a smaller tip but I think it's at least partly due to the first two factors.
 
bdorman said:
Your signature says it all: 90% of the game is mental.

I went from 13mm to 12.75mm, finally to 11.75mm. Sure, I notice a difference in how it looks when I'm addressing the CB-OB line, but I don't think there's a measurable difference it how those sizes play.
Click to expand...

Mr. Wiley & some others would disagree with you.

But... if you notice no difference than that is all that matters to you.

Have you gone back to a 13mm to check the water so to speak.

I have a Predator 314 CAT shaft that was taken down to 12mm. It plays fantastic with all the english that I use on up to about 2/3 of a table. But... I'm scared to shoot near full table shots with it because it has virtually no squirt & certainly no net squirt as it will swerve back across the line when given the distance & time to do so.

I'm a firm believer that any difference yields a difference. Some may not be able to perceive the differences but they're there.

Best 2 You, The OP, & All,
Rick
 
ENGLISH! said:
I'm scared to shoot near full table shots with it because it has virtually no squirt & certainly no net squirt as it will swerve back across the line when given the distance & time to do so.

Rick
Click to expand...

Am I reading that right? You're afraid to shoot table length shots because you don't have to compensate for swerve?
 
railbird99 said:
Am I reading that right? You're afraid to shoot table length shots because you don't have to compensate for swerve?
Click to expand...

It's a bit of a story & your statement if not quite what it is.

I've been using english for more than 4+ decades since I was 13 with regular high squirt shafts. I went to LD shafts, I guess it's about 4 years now. No problem making the change. Did it in one session basically.

The thing with this shaft is that if I shoot with the amount of english I want on the ball for certain full table shots this shaft will send the ball across the line. Basically it out spins the squirt. I don't want to shoot that hard to keep the swerve out of the picture. In other words, if I want to shoot at a more normal speed I would need to make a reverse compensation & I simply do not want to have to do that.

I 'love' the shaft for close quarters up to the 2/3 table length but past that I have to make a significant adjustment in either using way less english than I might want or simply shoot the shot with no english or shoot it way harder than I would like. It's great for smaller bar box tables.

I know it has squirt/deflection but when I check it out on a 9' table I have to hit rather hard to keep it from crossing over to the other side.

I guess I should clarify that I am NOT talking about hitting the CB on the equator where swerve would be non existent. I'm talking about about hitting the ball above & below the equator with the side english component.

I hope that clarifies what I meant.

Best 2 You & All,
Rick
 
I'm sure Dr-Dave has the answer to this, as I'm also interested in hearing it.

But I personally believe that tip size do matter in terms of spin power, with the same type of shot and same type of speed the spin will be different with one tip size to another, but this is based on personal feel so I can be wrong, I hope others will chime in to this and correct me if i'm wrong.
 
asbani said:
I'm sure Dr-Dave has the answer to this, as I'm also interested in hearing it.

But I personally believe that tip size do matter in terms of spin power, with the same type of shot and same type of speed the spin will be different with one tip size to another, but this is based on personal feel so I can be wrong, I hope others will chime in to this and correct me if i'm wrong.
Click to expand...
Tip type can definitely have an effect on the speed and spin you get on certain types of shots. For the details, see:

cue tip hardness effects

Here's an excerpt pertinent to your question:

There is no question that a harder tip "feels" different and provides different "feedback" (a softer tip typically dampens the impact a little and the force of the hit isn't felt as strongly). It is also true that a harder tip can result in a more efficient hit, providing more speed to the CB for a given cue speed. And it is true that with slower CB speed, more backspin will wear off on the way to the OB with a draw shot and more sidespin will wear off on the way to the cushion with a sidespin shot (especially on slow and sticky cloth with slower shot speed). These effects might make it seem like a softer tip is applying less spin to the CB. Regardless, the quality of spin (i.e., the spin-speed ratio) delivered to the CB depends only on the tip contact-point offset from center.

Regards,
Dave
 
ENGLISH! said:
It's a bit of a story & your statement if not quite what it is.

I've been using english for more than 4+ decades since I was 13 with regular high squirt shafts. I went to LD shafts, I guess it's about 4 years now. No problem making the change. Did it in one session basically.

The thing with this shaft is that if I shoot with the amount of english I want on the ball for certain full table shots this shaft will send the ball across the line. Basically it out spins the squirt. I don't want to shoot that hard to keep the swerve out of the picture. In other words, if I want to shoot at a more normal speed I would need to make a reverse compensation & I simply do not want to have to do that.

I 'love' the shaft for close quarters up to the 2/3 table length but past that I have to make a significant adjustment in either using way less english than I might want or simply shoot the shot with no english or shoot it way harder than I would like. It's great for smaller bar box tables.

I know it has squirt/deflection but when I check it out on a 9' table I have to hit rather hard to keep it from crossing over to the other side.

I guess I should clarify that I am NOT talking about hitting the CB on the equator where swerve would be non existent. I'm talking about about hitting the ball above & below the equator with the side english component.

I hope that clarifies what I meant.

Best 2 You & All,
Rick
Click to expand...

Swerve only exists when you are elevated, so I assume you are talking about full table length shots from the rail, where you are slightly elevated, at normal speed. If that's the case, and you are saying you get no swerve with your LD shaft, then you would just be compensating for deflection, which is something you already have to do on your "2/3 table length" shots. All LD shafts have some deflection, so you are already used to making that compensation, so I'm still confused.
 
railbird99 said:
Swerve only exists when you are elevated, so I assume you are talking about full table length shots from the rail, where you are slightly elevated, at normal speed. If that's the case, and you are saying you get no swerve with your LD shaft, then you would just be compensating for deflection, which is something you already have to do on your "2/3 table length" shots. All LD shafts have some deflection, so you are already used to making that compensation, so I'm still confused.
Click to expand...

No. I never said that I get no swerve. I get TOO much swerve with that shaft. It deflects the cue ball very very slightly & the spin will cause the cue ball to swerve back & actually cross the line to that other side of the cue line.

I can't be more clear than that.

Nearly every shot that we shoot has some elevation on the butt side of the cue so there is some swerve or at least potential for swerve on nearly every shot that is hit off center except for those that are hit on the equator of the ball with a level cue.

I hope this clears things up for you.

Best 2 You & All,
Rick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top