Tips on coloring linen wrap

cueguy

cueguy

Just a repair guy
Silver Member
I have a friend that has a purple Muecci and since he is an LSU fan, wanted the wrap changed to a gold color ;-) What I have done is remove the finish over the wrap and the wrap itself - then re-wrapped it. I then sanded the wrap area smooth. I found some gold spray paint and I am having a heck of a time getting it to look smooth prior to recoating it. The first time it looked pretty good over 85% of the wrap area but it seems there is always some little area that isn't smooth looking. I have re-sprayed this 3 time times now and it seems like the same result.
Does anyone have any hints? Should I use something other than gold shoe spray paint?
Any ideas would help...
I might have to just send this to Rat to fix ;-)
Thanks!
 
Thanks!

I love this forum ;-)
I was trying to make the wrap as smooth as possible and painting it gold before I tried putting the "finish" on it. Thanks to help from a few of you already, I realize that I must get some finish on it and make it completely flat before painting. Then build the rest of the way. You guys are great. Thanks again Brent!
Sure hope everyone had a great Christmas!
Thanks again.
 
cueguy said:
I have a friend that has a purple Muecci and since he is an LSU fan, wanted the wrap changed to a gold color ;-) What I have done is remove the finish over the wrap and the wrap itself - then re-wrapped it. I then sanded the wrap area smooth. I found some gold spray paint and I am having a heck of a time getting it to look smooth prior to recoating it. The first time it looked pretty good over 85% of the wrap area but it seems there is always some little area that isn't smooth looking. I have re-sprayed this 3 time times now and it seems like the same result.
Does anyone have any hints? Should I use something other than gold shoe spray paint?
Any ideas would help...
I might have to just send this to Rat to fix ;-)
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Since you are going to finish over it you could get imitation gold leaf. It is easy to apply and the result could be really good. I have a feeling paint is going to just look like paint. What ever you do, be sure to do a practice one before you go near the actual cue. Same applies to any experimental repair. You never want surprises.
 
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If you were to dye the linen, you would dye it AFTER application.
Much simpler that way. I've changed the color of many wraps that way.
I have some solid yellow linen if that would help you.
LMK, KJ
 
wrap

how about some of the gold string used in jewery making,its about the right size, especially if you"re clear coating it.some of it is elastic and glittery,i know it would be as good as the stuff meucci uses that breaks every few inches,but if it works???
 
"Why, and why?"

"Why" - Linen comes off the spool much better than it does off a pile on the floor.
How were you thinking of dyeing the mtrl.?
By dyeing after application, you're only dyeing the exact amount of linen needed and it's already installed.
The only way I can think of to dye the linen before application is to remove 50yds+
from the spool, soak it in a tub to dye and put it back on a clean spool.
My turn......WHY? That seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.

"...and why?"
You're going to have to be a little more specific with this one.
All I come-up with is because it addresses the OPs original question.
 
Great repsonses

There sure are a lot of great responses and ideas here. I will be trying to get the area filled flat prior to painting it gold and then topping it off with finish. Hopefully I can finish with a bunch of my wife's "honey-do's" soon and get back to working it ;-) It seems that when she is off work I don't get much time at all downstairs... I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks a bunch!
 
KJ Cues said:
"Why, and why?"

"Why" - Linen comes off the spool much better than it does off a pile on the floor.
How were you thinking of dyeing the mtrl.?
By dyeing after application, you're only dyeing the exact amount of linen needed and it's already installed.
The only way I can think of to dye the linen before application is to remove 50yds+
from the spool, soak it in a tub to dye and put it back on a clean spool.
My turn......WHY? That seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.

"...and why?"
You're going to have to be a little more specific with this one.
All I come-up with is because it addresses the OPs original question.
Click to expand...

I was wondering why it "must " be done after installation, and why it would be simpler this way is all. I realize it would likely be easier but I think you end up dying more or less only the exposed side of the wrap, which is fine "if" it never moves. I would use a single roll of white, unspool it, dye it, then re-spool it. This way it is all the same color. I know it's more work, but possibly less problems later.
 
If you use an aniline dye (water or alcohol) it will completely penetrate the fabric and it should be dyed all the way through. Dying it on the cue prevents all those knots in the linen that happen when it gets loose.

Of course, Rit dye would probably work as well.

If you insist on the paint, try sanding it smooth and keep going up in sandpaper grades. Micromesh may work wonders.
 
Renegade_56 said:
I was wondering why it "must " be done after installation, and why it would be simpler this way is all. I realize it would likely be easier but I think you end up dying more or less only the exposed side of the wrap, which is fine "if" it never moves. I would use a single roll of white, unspool it, dye it, then re-spool it. This way it is all the same color. I know it's more work, but possibly less problems later.
Click to expand...

OK, I understand that you are wondering and that's fine.
Actually, that's why we CMs hang-out here. So we can address the questions of those that wonder.
As to the "must", there is no must way of doing things in this craft.
There are ways and techniques that are acquired through experience, trial & error.
After 23+ yrs of building I've learned from experience what works for me.
Sometimes I'm even willing to share some of what I've learned.
It doesn't mean that anyone has to believe me or even pay attention.
I'm self-taught in just about everything I do, be it welding, machining or building cues.
The point being, what I've found to work best for me may not be best for anyone else.
If someone comes away from one of my posts with a bit of knowledge they didn't have before,
I'm a happy camper. That's the reward of sharing.

Next up, wraps moving.
Once installed, a linen wrap should not move. If it does, it wasn't installed correctly.
My wraps don't move until I (or someone else) takes them off.
If they move in the field, you need better glue and/or better technique.
As to the wrap moving to expose an undyed suface, not going to happen.
The dye is suspended in liquid, usually water. It satuates the cordage.
Hypothetically, if the wrap did move around, it wouldn't show any other color than what I dyed it.

Some wrap colors just aren't available and where the client gets the idea for their
preferred color scheme, I have no idea. But, they want what they want so you try to accommodate.
The method that I use was shared to me, I didn't come-up with it.
It's so slick, trick & simple that I kick myself for not thinking of it.
This was one instance where (with sharing), what goes around - comes around.
My sharing was returned to me.

I hope that you and everyone else has a GREAT holiday season.

KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
OK, I understand that you are wondering and that's fine.
Actually, that's why we CMs hang-out here. So we can address the questions of those that wonder.
As to the "must", there is no must way of doing things in this craft.
There are ways and techniques that are acquired through experience, trial & error.
After 23+ yrs of building I've learned from experience what works for me.
Sometimes I'm even willing to share some of what I've learned.
It doesn't mean that anyone has to believe me or even pay attention.
I'm self-taught in just about everything I do, be it welding, machining or building cues.
The point being, what I've found to work best for me may not be best for anyone else.
If someone comes away from one of my posts with a bit of knowledge they didn't have before,
I'm a happy camper. That's the reward of sharing.

Next up, wraps moving.
Once installed, a linen wrap should not move. If it does, it wasn't installed correctly.
My wraps don't move until I (or someone else) takes them off.
If they move in the field, you need better glue and/or better technique.
As to the wrap moving to expose an undyed suface, not going to happen.
The dye is suspended in liquid, usually water. It satuates the cordage.
Hypothetically, if the wrap did move around, it wouldn't show any other color than what I dyed it.

Some wrap colors just aren't available and where the client gets the idea for their
preferred color scheme, I have no idea. But, they want what they want so you try to accommodate.
The method that I use was shared to me, I didn't come-up with it.
It's so slick, trick & simple that I kick myself for not thinking of it.
This was one instance where (with sharing), what goes around - comes around.
My sharing was returned to me.

I hope that you and everyone else has a GREAT holiday season.

KJ
Click to expand...

And just like that, you probably saved me a bunch of work if I ever decide to dye a wrap,,,,,,,,thanks,,,,,,,so the next question would be the dye itself, I'm old, so I immediately think of Ritt, is there a better product now for this application?
 
You're welcome, glad to help with an explanation.
Now let's go back to where I stated, "Sometimes I'm even willing to share some of what I've learned."
I'm not an open book. I'll share where & when I think it's needed.
We have a phrase here that gets used a lot: spoon-feeding.
This practice discourages experimentation and stifles trial & error.
I would like to avoid this. I would like nothing more than for people to have the
ability and desire to think for themselves.
I know, it's a fine line. Trying to be helpful without giving away the farm.
My purpose in sharing is an attempt to point people in the right direction.
If that little nudge allows someone to find a better way then we both win.

At least a couple of dyes were suggested, both worthy of playing around with.
They are certainly not the only means. This may be a bit abstract but think about it.
Wine makes a nice stain, so do a lot of other liquids.
Your only limit in life is your own imagination. Age has nothing to do with it.
KJ
 
Next year when the weeds start growing again, I'm planning on using Pokeberries for a stain. It makes our dogs turn purple when they run through them. I imagine it will do the same to oak or maple. I've heard that Indians used it for ink. Tobacco steeped in water like tea is also a useful stain. Of course, coffee and tea are known to stain just about anything, it's just that most folks don't see this as beneficial. Black walnuts make a potent stain. Boiled acorns can also make a stain. You may be able to use dandelions for a yellow stain. It stains skin. Grass is green and works wonders on kids blue jeans. Just about anything in your back yard can be used for a stain. You just need to look around.
 
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Recommended Dye for Wraps

Can anyone recommend what dye to use that would change a double white/brown into a darker shade of brown? Thanks.
 
Rutilus said:
Can anyone recommend what dye to use that would change a double white/brown into a darker shade of brown? Thanks.
Click to expand...

All brown or do you want darker specks? Just about any type of dye would work as long as it has an alcohol or water base. I suppose the most readily available type is leather dye. Relatively cheap and easy to come by.

I'd switch the LSU fan to a different college team like my Nebraska Cornhuskers. I have Red/white wrap on hand....




<~~wants to see pics of the finished cue.
 
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