tips..........

middleofnowhere said:
I remember my first Moori tip. I took it off the first day. Then I got talked into giving it another try. It did not take long before I loved it. I think the layered tips were truly a game changer.
Trouble now is, layered tips are so confusing, not to mention expensive, the average player has no idea what to use. You go nuts doing trial and error. I completely understand the questions on here about tips.
Click to expand...
You could go with standard whole mm ferrules and just glue 'em on out the box. Le Pro to Elkmaster ad infinitum.
 
Hoping to hear some more opinions on a break tip. A friend wanted to try a Bulletproof tip so I will be installing one tomorrow. I'll try his out to see how I like it.

I have also been looking at the White Diamond tip. I love how my breaker breaks, but not how the hit feels. My tip just feels like a rock-hard piece of plastic. It goes smooth quick and does not hold chalk well, so you have to be careful not to stray too far from center. I don't want a soft tip, but I think I can sacrifice some hardness for more control and feel.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Hoping to hear some more opinions on a break tip. A friend wanted to try a Bulletproof tip so I will be installing one tomorrow. I'll try his out to see how I like it.

I have also been looking at the White Diamond tip. I love how my breaker breaks, but not how the hit feels. My tip just feels like a rock-hard piece of plastic. It goes smooth quick and does not hold chalk well, so you have to be careful not to stray too far from center. I don't want a soft tip, but I think I can sacrifice some hardness for more control and feel.
Click to expand...
I have used white diamond break tips for years.............. recently changed to a water buffalo and I make more balls on the break..................

Kim
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Hoping to hear some more opinions on a break tip. A friend wanted to try a Bulletproof tip so I will be installing one tomorrow. I'll try his out to see how I like it.

I have also been looking at the White Diamond tip. I love how my breaker breaks, but not how the hit feels. My tip just feels like a rock-hard piece of plastic. It goes smooth quick and does not hold chalk well, so you have to be careful not to stray too far from center. I don't want a soft tip, but I think I can sacrifice some hardness for more control and feel.
Click to expand...
If you're set on a synthetic break tip, I feel that Hammer Head V2 is kind of like an upgraded version of WD. Holds chalk better, provides more feedback, a bit crisper hit and better at jumps. The materials feel kind of similar to me, but less dampening on HH2. I know a lot of people swear by WD, it's a good tip, but HH2 feels like an improvement on every aspect that makes WD desirable.
 
boogieman said:
If you're set on a synthetic break tip, I feel that Hammer Head V2 is kind of like an upgraded version of WD. Holds chalk better, provides more feedback, a bit crisper hit and better at jumps. The materials feel kind of similar to me, but less dampening on HH2. I know a lot of people swear by WD, it's a good tip, but HH2 feels like an improvement on every aspect that makes WD desirable.
Click to expand...

Not set on synthetic, just see WD come up a lot. I can consider the HH2, but how "crisp" is it. What I have seems too hard to me, so I don't want to replace it with the same type.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Not set on synthetic, just see WD come up a lot. I can consider the HH2, but how "crisp" is it. What I have seems too hard to me, so I don't want to replace it with the same type.
Click to expand...
Maybe try a Water Buffalo if you like solid tips.

They sell it as an extra hard or something like that and the guy that did tips at the hall used them for break cues. I put one on my playing cue and it was the best tip I’ve tried so far, sweet as a nut. Definitely stout but never seemed hard and harsh to me.

I broke with it as well and it did fine on a 314-3. I went through 3 tips before the guy stopped coming around and I haven’t found anyone with them since.

I guess I’ll order a box of them because I’ve been disappointed with the tips I’ve tried since then. My only gripe is that they wear down quicker than layered tips I’ve tried, but if you’re only breaking with it I don’t think that’d be an issue.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Not set on synthetic, just see WD come up a lot. I can consider the HH2, but how "crisp" is it. What I have seems too hard to me, so I don't want to replace it with the same type.
Click to expand...
Have you used phenolic? HH2 doesn't feel like that shattering sound hit at all. It's a really good feeling tip. Just a solid hit with good control. The WD really feels like you glued a plastic green army men material to the tip in a way. There's really no way to properly describe HH2 without feeling it, but it feels nice for breaks and jumps. No harsh shattering shenanigans like phenolic.
 
garczar said:
A lot of makers still use Triangles as stock tip because they are cheap and play good. Most will upgrade to about anything you want.
Click to expand...
I've sold and installed a good amount of different tips but always keep Triangles on my personal cues.
 
MitchAlsup said:
Misnomer:

Chalk (silicon carbide, today) is what grips the cue-ball not the leather on the tip.

SiC has molecular sized finger tips that are seriously hard (like Rockwell:C 60) and are fourth in hardness compared to diamond. Far harder than the hardest heat treated steels.
The SiC fingers dig into the phenolic surface of the CB
The SiC fingers dig into the leather tip. The leather tip supports the SiC granule so they do not roll during the millisecond of contact.
The SiC fingers dig into these things even at stroke speeds under 1 inch per minute.
It is the SiC fingers that create the friction that enable off center shots.

The CB material is chosen so that it still looks shiny for a long time while the SiC fingers put molecular sized divots in its surface.
The Tip material is chose so that massive numbers of molecular sized divots do not wear the tip down.

Chalk (like what you write on black boards with) is aluminum-oxide; another abrasive that does similar work but does not create as much friction as SiC. This is what the first chalks were made of (cut from the "white cliffs of Dover")

If the leather is too soft, the SiC fingers will roll during impact (this is around 25 on the durometer we use to measure tip hardness). And these tips will mushroom in a couple dozen strokes anyway. No leather (or phenolic) is so hard that the SiC fingers will not embed. It takes something hard like steel when there are cue stick velocities slow enough for the SiC not work as desired.
Click to expand...
WTF??

Pretty sure you just head-f$$%ed me for the rest of my life. It’s bad enough that I get distracted by how arched the fingers of my bridge hand are, now I’ll have all this going through my head on every shot.
 
I’ve had the stock predator tip my vantage came with for couple years never had issue with it I also play well with it so scared to change it 😂
 
Busboy said:
I’ve had the stock predator tip my vantage came with for couple years never had issue with it I also play well with it so scared to change it 😂
Click to expand...
I know a guy who plays with original tips on all his sticks, he's not playing everyday but there all 20+ years old Lol. They are hard as a rock but he never miss cue's and shoots decent so I guess it don't matter 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
PracticeChampion said:
I know a guy who plays with original tips on all his sticks, he's not playing everyday but there all 20+ years old Lol. They are hard as a rock but he never miss cue's and shoots decent so I guess it don't matter 🤷🏻‍♂️
Click to expand...
The harder your tip, the more quickly you learn how to properly chalk and stroke a ball. A hard tip will do anything you ask of it and will not miscue if you get your stroke and fundamentals in order. The only real difference is that a hard tip requires less maintenance. A soft tip turns hard anyway after enough use. That magic tip that you've used for months or years? It's pretty thin and it's hard at this point. Might as well put a hard tip on and start in that sweet spot. :)
 
MitchAlsup said:
Misnomer:

Chalk (silicon carbide, today) is what grips the cue-ball not the leather on the tip.

SiC has molecular sized finger tips that are seriously hard (like Rockwell:C 60) and are fourth in hardness compared to diamond. Far harder than the hardest heat treated steels.
The SiC fingers dig into the phenolic surface of the CB
The SiC fingers dig into the leather tip. The leather tip supports the SiC granule so they do not roll during the millisecond of contact.
The SiC fingers dig into these things even at stroke speeds under 1 inch per minute.
It is the SiC fingers that create the friction that enable off center shots.

The CB material is chosen so that it still looks shiny for a long time while the SiC fingers put molecular sized divots in its surface.
The Tip material is chose so that massive numbers of molecular sized divots do not wear the tip down.

Chalk (like what you write on black boards with) is aluminum-oxide; another abrasive that does similar work but does not create as much friction as SiC. This is what the first chalks were made of (cut from the "white cliffs of Dover")

If the leather is too soft, the SiC fingers will roll during impact (this is around 25 on the durometer we use to measure tip hardness). And these tips will mushroom in a couple dozen strokes anyway. No leather (or phenolic) is so hard that the SiC fingers will not embed. It takes something hard like steel when there are cue stick velocities slow enough for the SiC not work as desired.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about silicon carbide? I don't think that is correct; I believe it is silica that is the major ingredient.
 
whammo57 said:
so I have seen quite a few good players........ buy tip after tip because someone told them one was better than the other........... are they searching for some magic ???? what is the criteria for a good tip??? 1, it doesn't glaze over 2, it stays rough and takes chalk without constant scuffing 3, it grips the cue ball,........................................... most soft tips will mushroom at least once, some medium will ........ hard tips only mushroom for hammer mechanics,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, find a good tip and stick with it ............ they do wear (if you scuff them often)......... and they do usually harden over time especially if you are a hard striker...................... I change my tip every month or 2.................. I know some players have had the same tip for years............ it depends how often you play and how you play
Click to expand...
My favorite tip is one that doesn't feel like a marshmellow and DOES NOT MISCUE. Of course there is an inverse relationship between the two.
 
claymont said:
Are you sure about silicon carbide? I don't think that is correct; I believe it is silica that is the major ingredient.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure silicon carbide is black. I don't notice black particles in chalk.

Silica is silicon dioxide which is the same as quartz and forms much of the sand in the world. I have been told that most billiard chalk is made from ground up sand (plus a binder and color).
 
Greg M said:
I've never used any of the popular American pool brands like Triangle or Le Pro, but I have tried an Elk Pro in the past. Seems to compress less often than a standard Elk Master. Chalk adhesion was also pretty good.

Currently have a super soft ADR147 on my playing cue, which I have heard nothing but good things about. I think it's going to be my forever tip once I get a chance to knock a few balls around with it.
Click to expand...
What's the hardness rating?
 
boogieman said:
Have you used phenolic? HH2 doesn't feel like that shattering sound hit at all. It's a really good feeling tip. Just a solid hit with good control. The WD really feels like you glued a plastic green army men material to the tip in a way. There's really no way to properly describe HH2 without feeling it, but it feels nice for breaks and jumps. No harsh shattering shenanigans like phenolic.
Click to expand...

After delivering my teammate's cues last night he let me try a few breaks to test out the Bulletproof break tip. I broke a few back and forth between mine and his. There was a noticeable difference in the feel and result. It was a solid hard hit, but it didn't have that "banging two rocks together" feel. There was also more action from the break. I will definitely be changing my tip to something else soon. I just need to pick which tip. The Bulletproof is a solid contender, but I will be installing a White Diamond soon so I can try that too. If it feels weird like you stated I'll try the Hammerhead too.
 
I recently got a Kamui medium. Dang, is that tip hard! (That’s what she said lol.)

Still getting used to it, still not sure i like it but I’m hanging in there with it before I decide to go with another $40 for a Kamui soft or most other brand medium.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top